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Magnetic vs. non magnetic oil pan shavings

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dsmmaniac12787

10+ Year Contributor
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May 17, 2008
Prince George, Virginia
I have had a knock/tick for a while. At first I thought it was a combo of my valves and missing turbo to manifold bolt making exhaust noise. But then it started making a louder noise upon start up. When cranked up first thing in the morning the noise would rise with the rpms when initially started, then get a little more quiet when at idle. It would make this noise I believe throughout the rpm range but was more noticeable mid-low rpms.

This is what I got from the oil pan....The ones on the left were very magnetic. They would jump to the magnet. The middle ones only stuck if the magnet was placed directly on them. The magnet had no effect on the shavings on the far right. Any ideas what that means as far as magnetism? And what in the world is that black thing at the bottom?
 

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Depending on the bearing, the ferrous and nonferrous shavings have indicated that the bearing wear has been long past it's expiration date. I suspect you need to start pulling your oil pan off and inspect all of your rod bearings.
 
Depending on the bearing, the ferrous and nonferrous shavings have indicated that the bearing wear has been long past it's expiration date. I suspect you need to start pulling your oil pan off and inspect all of your rod bearings.

I agree 100%.
 
The picture isn't clear enough for me to see it. As for bearing swaps, you can't simply just put a new set of bearings in (not to mention you can't pull the crank without taking the trans off and at that point you might as well just take the engine out of the car) and expect everything to be good to go. If your bearings have worn like that (you usually get just the typical little shavings) you need to inspect the rods and then when you find out your bearings are toast, you need to pull that short block and have the crank/block/rods looked at.
 
Bearing babbitt is non-ferrous. Bearing shells are usually steel. The steel shows up when the babbitt is gone. When that happens, whatever the bearing had been riding in is usually destroyed as well.
 
The picture isn't clear enough for me to see it. As for bearing swaps, you can't simply just put a new set of bearings in (not to mention you can't pull the crank without taking the trans off and at that point you might as well just take the engine out of the car) and expect everything to be good to go. If your bearings have worn like that (you usually get just the typical little shavings) you need to inspect the rods and then when you find out your bearings are toast, you need to pull that short block and have the crank/block/rods looked at.

I was under the impression that I could rotate the crank to get access to all the bearings.
 
I was under the impression that I could rotate the crank to get access to all the bearings.

Yes. What we've been saying is that the 'coating' of the bearing is usually nonmagnetic. Once you get magnetic shavings, it's usually the actual bearing you're picking up. That being said, if your bearing is damaged that much, the crank (if rods) or block (if mains) is usually shot as well. You are correct that you can spin the crank to remove all 4 rod bearings, but if the crank is scored it will have it come out. Or if it is the main bearings, you cannot get access to the mains without removing the crank.
 
ouch. Not to mention I have been running a walbro 255 with no afpr for the last year. I would really hate to see what the inside of my motor looks like.

I suppose that could be why my bearing is messed up...insufficient lubrication because of all the fuel in the oil?
 
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