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Old 08-27-2008, 08:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Doing a balance shaft elimination with engine in car?

Only came up with one thread that had one reply and it wasn't 100% clear.

First off, is it possible.
Second, how much of a bitch does this make it?
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Old 08-28-2008, 10:32 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It's annoying but 100% possible. Just go do it. Especially with a 1g.


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Old 08-28-2008, 11:44 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Can be done but would be a pain in the ass to perform. remove everything on the all the parts to timing belt, and remove front case install balance shaft kit and reinstall everything.
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I had to change my valve stem seals out so I figured now would be a better time than any to do it. The car already had the balance shaft belt snap once on it which involved getting a new head.
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Ya I would just do it in the car it really isn't that bad. I have done it multiple times with no issues at all.
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Tell you what, I'll buy you a plane ticket from Hawaii and back, and watch you do it.
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Old 08-28-2008, 09:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Lol, no deal! I have enough work here in the driveway. Also......who would want to leave Hawaii to work on a car in Iowa?? Haha, good luck man!
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Old 08-28-2008, 09:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nekoni View Post
Only came up with one thread that had one reply and it wasn't 100% clear.

First off, is it possible.
Second, how much of a bitch does this make it?
First, Yes, its possible. I've done it. Twice. I did it differently both times.

Second, It was no fun. No fun at all.

One time I lowered the engine enough to remove the shafts from the bottom. The other time, a majority of the car was also disassembled, and I was able to lift the engine up high enough in the car and pull out the cover and shafts. This was easier as I could see alot better, but I was only able to do this b/c there was a lot taken off of the car for other reasons. The head was off, and both axles were pulled and t-case was dropped. With out the axles out and t-case off, you would not be able to lift it high enough. Also a good portion of the wiring and plumbing was not hooked up yet.


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Old 09-03-2008, 05:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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OK, by getting rid of the driver's side mount and the front mount we had ALL the space we needed and it dropped fine. Giving plenty of space to remove the shafts. Thanks for the help, guys.


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Old 09-04-2008, 04:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm new to this and I have to retension by timing belt and did not find any scriptive details on how to but here a silly question: When going into the t cover, driver mount and front mounts comes off, but do I have to take out driver axle and transfer case too? If so, is it better just to take the motor and tranny out to do the job?


thanks,

sorry if I high jacked your thread.
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Old 09-04-2008, 11:28 PM   #11 (permalink)
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No, I'm done with this thread.

Remve transfer case, yes. As for the axle you will be removing the bracket that holds it up on the back side of the engine. Near the A/C motor.


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Old 10-03-2008, 08:53 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Really dumb question. what does it do if you remove them? do you gain performane?
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Old 10-03-2008, 09:14 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Do research my man! This was answered about a decade ago.

But it increases reliability, removes things in the engine bay, removes weight, and removes rotating mass as well.


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Old 10-04-2008, 08:52 AM   #14 (permalink)
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thanks can i do this on my 6 bolt N/T
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Old 10-04-2008, 03:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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My first DSM we had to lower the engine about 3-4 inchs for the front shaft to clear the frame. Other then that everything else went off without any hitches.


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Old 10-04-2008, 11:12 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
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My first DSM we had to lower the engine about 3-4 inchs for the front shaft to clear the frame. Other then that everything else went off without any hitches.
If you are doing the BSEK job with the motor still in the car, you might as well just leave the forward balance shaft in the motor. -Do this for a few reasons:

*It is much easier to leave it in there (sub-frame clearance issue)

*It negates the whole process of having to remove and plug the oil ports for the forward BS bearings. With the shaft still in place and not spinning (don't connect the belt), it will do a sufficient job of blocking off the oil passages.

*Install the BSEK stub shaft and re-install the front cover and your done... Just be sure to add a few washers to the remaining forward balance shaft's sprocket so that the shaft & sprocket are held in place.


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