Questions on boosting a 420A

[cjmech]

I have a few questions about boosting the 420A in my 95 RS.

1) Are the injectors on the 420a low impedance peak and hold style?

2) Can I use 450cc injectors and the S-AFC for fuel managment and to trick the map signal (I used this very effectiley on my old school CRX) or does this create problems with the ignition timing?

3) How is the timing/fuel controlled on the hahn/star kits?


Thanks for any helpful advice.

Cj

 

[Biatch]

1) No

2) Yes

3)Your choice

Both kits offer something much better than each other and have their strengths. The way that Star is able to create more power at the same pressure setting is though it’s FMIC and larger diameter piping through out the kit. Driving this car at the track Star’s Stage 2 can create an underestimated 320HP on 92 octane @ 14psi, obviously with higher octane the power will jump. Throttle Tech has even tested 12 psi on race fuel and developed 310HP. Hahn’s STAGE 3 makes 325HP. If your looking for the most power possible or to say I have the biggest turbo on a platform w/ better cooling and unmatched strength at top end, the choice your are looking for is also applicable to automatics, out the box, and is ready for simple fuel upgrades to transform it into about 400HP for daily or track driving; this is the Star Kit. For me Horsepower=Bible, so the choice is VERY obvious, but even if you’re a decently skilled mechanic I would highly recommend the Star Kit being installed by a professional Autosports shop. The HRC kit is really a much easier installation.

Not everyone wants strictly top end drivability but instead around the town zip in his or her car. This is the HRC Kit, which carries excellent midrange power into the top end. 0-60mph, throttle response and less lag are definitely prominent in this Kit. This is perfect for what the small turbo is made for, and with a bit more money you can preserve the low-end power and create 325 daily driven. For less than HRC’s lowest stage 2 price, you could get the Star Kit. As aesthetics are concerned a front mount intercooler, standard I might add for the Star, looks way to aggressive to pass up. Also standard with Star are a better BOV, external waste gate, and a better turbo. Again the Turbonetics Turbos are better than the Mitsu Super 16 and 20G’s (I know this is a sore point but it’s true). They use more material to make them stronger and are more often applied, especially the ball bearing. Both will stand up to abuse, but all this in the Star system make more bang for buck. In these, stage 2, turbos the Star is the one making more power; if you’re rev happy that is, with the HRC making more mid punch and the dominant off the line go.

If you go with the STAR kit, Atleast upgrade the turbo to the E-trim (bigger compressor wheel), and if you can get the Ball-bearing option (quicker spool). But if you can't don't worry about it, it's still a better turbo than the 16g or 20g for all out horsepower.

If you have any questions email me: [email protected]

I have a document I created that compares the 2 kits. Email me and I'll send it to you.

 

[Biatch]

Oh Yeah,

Until you get to STAGE 3, both kits in clude a new fuel pump and some type of FMU (Vortech)

Once you get to stage 3, it's typically a fuel module (HAHN) or going with bigger injectors and an AFC (STAR).

After about 15-18 psi of boost, you will need to do something a little different, either a STANDALONE fuel mamangement, or Engine management system, or even an 8 injector setup that I will be running this spring.

 

[siueclipse]

HAHN doesn't recommend running anything higher than 310cc injectors because the car will not idle properly on very low pressure.

 

[siueclipse]

310cc is a good choice because it's less than 50% larger than the stocker, hence controllable by teh stock ecu at idle, and it's also a fairly common injector. And with that size injector, at 9 psi, you'll only need about 70-75 psi of fuel pressure to adequately fuel your car at boost, which is much more reasonable a figure. You'll need a high impedance saturated injector...not low impedance peak and hold. Also, you'll want to turn the fuel pressure down at idle. I recommend somewhere in the 30-40 psi range. It would halp to have a datalogger handy so you could check your fuel trims at idle (you want to be close to 0-5%).

 

[legaleagle]

:laugh: