I thought I'd start my own documentation of this winter's build. I figure the more things we can look at, the more information can be had I call this project "rely-on-ability" because I read it over on DSMLink. No need to worry about reliability, if you can rely on your ability I currently have a 6 bolt engine in which I decided to "refresh" because of the massive oil leak I had this entire 2007 season, although I did manage to click off a 12.0@115. Anyway, to start, I had 2 places help me out. The first being John Nouri @ Broadway performance in Passaic, NJ and the second being Martin @ liquidpowdercoats.com for helping me with all my bling The purpose of this build was to spend the time and $$$ now, so that I may build a street friendly, reliable DSM. I've never had much luck putting other people's stuff together (used DSMs, used engines, etc.) so I decided to start from scratch with a fresh chassis (bought in 2006) and make a killer DSM that I've always wanted. Since the cosmetics are done, focus this year was to build my bullet proof dream engine, although dream may be a term used loosely
Overview:
6 bolt block : .020 over ross 8.3:1 & eagle H-beam rods, ARP main's, ARP rod studs, Clevite 77 bearings, all new seals/gasket. Machine work done : hot tank, drill/retap, deck, powdercoat gloss black, new bearings, reassembly of rotating assembly, freeze plugs.
1G head: hot tanked, milled, BC valvetrain installed, 5 angle valve job, BC 280/280 cams.
turbo: PTE 5031RE (ball bearing), converted from internal gate to external gate
Problem:
____________________________
~Tom
Last edited by blcknspo0ln; 12-29-2007 at 04:20 PM.
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Converting from internal to external is easy, so long as you don't have an undivided turbine housing like I did I made a mistake of buying a turbine housing for a T351 turbine wheel versus the smaller wheel of my 50 trim. Oh well, principle is the same.
divided. vs undivided:
First thing to do is unhook the internal wastegate. It is held on by 3 bolts on the backplate of the compressor cover and one c-clip on the wastegate flapper door arm.
Second, remove the actual internal flapper arm/door. This is only if you are running external off of o2. Some have removed it completely (you have to weld the hole if you do that) and some have just unhooked the WGA and let the door dangle, either way you're OK. If you are going to do a manifold mounted external wastegate, just weld the door or the arm shut.
In my case, I just ordered a turbine housing for my turbo that was already provisioned for o2 WG. After porting, I just bolted everything back together.
After that, take them out and dry them. Use assembly lube (picked it up at local auto store) and apply a liberal coat on the lifter. I just covered the whole thing, I figured why not.
Just grease them all up and pop em in. If you have difficult, wiggle them to get them into place, if not just use a rubber mallet and tap on the head. Here's a picture of them half installed for reference.
____________________________
~Tom
Last edited by blcknspo0ln; 12-14-2007 at 09:24 PM.
Next up are the rocker arms. I soaked them in the brake cleaner and dried them off, as with the lifters:
Here they are lined up next to each other, notice the clear assembly lube on them. I just greased up the roller on the rockers by putting lube on and spinning it with my finger.
Next, I put more lube on the head of the lifter and the tip of the valve. Basically anything that has metal on metal contact, I put assembly lube on.
Rockers installed, they literally just rest on top of the lifter/valve.
Next are the cams:
Lube the journals:
Lube all metal contact points on the cam (hell, do the whole cam!)
Place cams gently over the rocker arms and into place on the journals. Careful as to not tip over a rocker.
____________________________
~Tom
Last edited by blcknspo0ln; 12-17-2007 at 10:47 PM.
Note the orientation of the cams. The intake cam has the slots on them for the CAS. The dowel pin on both cams face the driver's side (for the cam gears).
When disassembling anything, I like to make little baggies and use a sharpie to label all of my bags. You end up having a lot of baggies, but it makes things 1000x easier to find.
Cam caps. Please reuse the same cam caps on your head, if you mix and match, get the machinist to line bore your head; Otherwise you will have problems upon startup.
Before I took off the cam caps, I labeled them in a system that made sense to me. Do what you like, just make sure you understand it. If you mess up, Mitsubishi kindly casted cam directions on the caps
Install this thing (sadly, I have no idea what it is):
Install CAS, make sure the alignment tab is in line with the cam marks. Nuts for the studs are 8x1.25
I don't have a pic of it, but get the cam gears on by using red loctite on the bolt and making sure that the step on the cam gear is aligned with the actual camshaft and the dowel pin inserted into the hole. Use an adjustable wrench on the hex portion of the cam shaft to hold it into place while you torque to 45 ft/lb. Torque the cam cap bolts to 18 ft/lb.
____________________________
~Tom
Last edited by blcknspo0ln; 12-29-2007 at 04:26 PM.
I didn't start too much on the block, but here's the rear main seal.
Take the plate and notice how the rear main seal is pushed in the plate. I took a socket (Like a 14mm deep) and place it against the inner ring of the seal. Since it'll be hard, just smack the socket onto the seal in a circular motion until the thing pops out. The one on the left is new and the old one on the right.
Note the orientation of the seal. The inside of it faces the inside of what would be the engine. The outside will be what you see once installed.
Here's the plate, rear main seal, gasket, and copper spray (permatex):
Use some engine oil or white lithium grease and grease the whole ring. The push the seal around the plate and gently hammer it into place with the mallet.
Use some copper spray and spray both sides of the gasket. Allow it to tack up before installing.
Torque to spec (I did 10 ft/lb) on these little bolts.
Oi, my fingers are getting tired already. I suspected the machine shop didn't torque to spec my ARP's, so I decided to redo it anyway. Torque specs with ARP Moly lube for the ARP rod bolts are 43-45 ft/lb and mains are 60 ft/lb. The trick to ARP fasteners is to torque it to spec once, loosen it, torque again to spec, etc; do this 5 times. It should get easier and easier to torque as you go along because now the threads are being broken in. This is what ARP wants you to do with their fasteners.
that said, I redid all of them. Someone on DSMLink stated (concerning how much moly to use) "like a kid with ketchup". Use generous portions. I only had one packet of moly, so I couldn't.
If the nut gets stuck on the main studs, just use a hex key and a ratcheting wrench to take em off.
This stupid plug was the whole reason for this rebuild. I ordered a new OEM one from JNZ and took John and Dan's (92awddsm and projectsi) advice on using Permatex cup and core plug (red loctite) sealant and Permatex high temp thread sealant on this project. Mainly the permatex high temp (it's white) on the BSP plug.
I blasted it out with brake cleaner and swabbed the threads with a Q-tip before installing.
To make myself feel better, I filled it with "great stuff" from permatex.
Last one for the night, installing the plug for the BSE on the front case. I'll get to the gears and pump once I get them from extremepsi (ordered brand spanking new ones).
New on the right, old on the left. I used the same method of rubber mallet and socket to pop out the core to swap out onto my new front case.
As dan's suggestion, permatex cup&core works really well.
The thiginy from the head assembly is the oil transfer addapter
And the trick I found for the rear oil seal is put the plate in a toaster oven aprox 300F put the seal and the oil guard in the freezer both for about 20min. Place the plate on a flat surface and then drop the oil seal and the guard into it and then let them cool. No pounding and hoping they go in straght.
The thiginy from the head assembly is the oil transfer addapter
And the trick I found for the rear oil seal is put the plate in a toaster oven aprox 300F put the seal and the oil guard in the freezer both for about 20min. Place the plate on a flat surface and then drop the oil seal and the guard into it and then let them cool. No pounding and hoping they go in straght.
PS super nice set of pictures!!
Thanks, I would give you rep points, but it seems I have already done so before
How about some pictures of the FP Intake Pipe? Thanks in advance
I plan on having a few pieces Powdercoated Wrinkle red. (Valve Cover, FP Intake pipe, few other small things maybe) I love the water pipe and fuel rail especially. From me
Did you happen to get that Turbo housing off of Ebay?
I don't think I'd heard of using brake fluid to wash parts, before. Hmm.
Aww you caught me!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jst4Cyl
How about some pictures of the FP Intake Pipe? Thanks in advance
I plan on having a few pieces Powdercoated Wrinkle red. (Valve Cover, FP Intake pipe, few other small things maybe) I love the water pipe and fuel rail especially. From me
Did you happen to get that Turbo housing off of Ebay?
Thanks, Martin did a great job for me
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1gnasty
dam tom if u only play paintball like u build motors u might have a chance lol
STFU NOOB. Lucky for you I sold my ion, so no more ass whoopin' for you Oh, pick up that damn heat shield already!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123bobby123
Hi,
What up man. Another awesome write up Tom, keep it coming.
I got a little done today, I had to order a new castle plug for the front case, so my engine build is pretty much at a stand still until I get it in.
Got the block on the stand today I used 10x1.25x80mm bolts (most use tranny bolts)
I couldn't find any 3M window weld, so I just substituted a polyurethane sealant I found at Home Depot. I'm sure it's the same stuff anyway (It's getting a lot harder as it cures). One thing to note is if you're in a rush to do mounts, don't just dump the sealant in there all at one time, it's going to take days to cure. You can speed it up by letting it bake for an hour at 200*F in your oven (SMELLS). YOU MUST do this in very thin layers and let each layer cure, otherwise it will not become hard and will remain soft.
**UPDATE** After I just pushed everything in, the polyurethane did not dry as hoped for, so they were junked in favor of the 'biglady mod'.
Along with my new front case I got both new gears and reused the stubby shaft from the BSE kit. I used white lithium grease to lube the shafts and red loctite on the bolt (torqued to 20 ft/lb)
Note the lip in which the bolt sits. The other side of the gear is flat, so make sure you put the bolt INSIDE the recessed portion of the gear. I used red loctite here too.
____________________________
~Tom
Last edited by blcknspo0ln; 11-12-2008 at 09:31 AM.
Put the transmission dowel pins in, PLEASE don't neglect to put these back in if you're doing a rebuild/swap.
I was reading a bit and came across BUCK's old tech thread and was reminded about bolting the cams down prior to putting the head on. Although I've bolted complete heads on before, I decided to be thorough and loosen up the cam bolts / caps just to make sure the valves are closed before I put the head on. Obviously setting the block to BTDC is a given so that a piston head isn't all the way up.
A lot of good pictures in this thread. Those cam seals (or whatever those are in the last couple pics) look surprisingly similiar to our axle seals. Keep up the good work.
Fantastic thread. Makes me wish I could do this right now as I'm rebuilding my engine. Sadly I don't have enough time or money. O well my fiancee's GSX is a much better platform to build on. When she gets a new car. That GSX is getting BUILT! Great Job!
That's okay. I'm heartened to see a can of copper spray in use.
I prefer moly-filled assembly lubes, but I've not gotten into engine guts this century. I'm undoubtedly behind the curve on what all they're making now.
I prefer moly-filled assembly lubes, but I've not gotten into engine guts this century.
Not much has changed - moly based lubes are still the best.
Your progress looks great, Tom. Keep up the good work.
I think one of the Link guys borrowed that "Rely-on-ability" line from my profile here though. I got it from NABR a while back.
____________________________
-Paul Volk-
'99 GSX
'91 TSI
Not much has changed - moly based lubes are still the best.
Your progress looks great, Tom. Keep up the good work. I think one of the Link guys borrowed that "Rely-on-ability" line from my profile here though. I got it from NABR a while back.
Perhaps I got it from you, I wouldn't put it past me seeing as how I forget just about everything within 3 seconds
I got the water pump on the other night, but haven't done anything else because of some shipping mishaps. Hopefully I can update soon!
Update time!! I got a lot accomplished in a measly 2 hours
Waterpump:
Pretty straight forward, it's 5 bolts and just copper spray (I always put a bit of black RTV on both sides anyway).
Fuel filter:
I stripped the crap out of the nut, even using a flare wrench I ended up getting really mad and just using an adjust lock-wrench (brain fart on what it's called right now).
re-teflon'd the fitting:
Front case:
Finally got the new castle plug from JNZ and used hi-temp sealant on this. I just finger tightened it and used a mallet and flat head screw driver to put extra torque around the nut.
I call this project "rely-on-ability" because I read it over on DSMLink. No need to worry about reliability, if you can rely on your ability 
I currently have a 6 bolt engine in which I decided to "refresh" because of the massive oil leak I had this entire 2007 season, although I did manage to click off a 12.0@115. Anyway, to start, I had 2 places help me out. The first being John Nouri @ Broadway performance in Passaic, NJ and the second being Martin @ liquidpowdercoats.com for helping me with all my bling 
I made a mistake of buying a turbine housing for a T351 turbine wheel versus the smaller wheel of my 50 trim. Oh well, principle is the same.
)
I ended up getting really mad and just using an adjust lock-wrench (brain fart on what it's called right now).
