Cut or Standard Crank?

[T9S1i]

So im kind of in a bind here. Let me tell you what happened, and give you the two options i have.
My machinist called me today to tell me that the crank that i thought was std. size is already .10 under. He sends his work out to get polished/ balanced so they didnt know that the crank was susposed to be std size and they went ahead and polished it already. The block/crank, i bought from my dsm mechanic and he thought both were std size so he must have given me the wrong crank. He said that he can give me a std size crank. I already bought bearrings for std. size crank and rods.
I really didnt want to run a cut crank for obvious reasons that we dont really need to get into.
Im kind of in the position where i can do one of two things. I can either:

A. Get the standard size crank from my mechanic. Pay for that crank to get polished as well as the one that they polished today. Use the std. bearrings that i already have ordered. The crank will be at the machine shop tomorrow.

B. Try to return/exchange bearrings for the .10 under rod/main bearrings. Have to run a cut crank. I'll probably get the bearrings by the end of next week (delaying the build of my motor for a week).

OK this is where the money comes into play. The polish job today was $70, $90 for me since my machinist sent it out and had to get the $20 on top. If i cant exchange the bearrings, then it'll probably cost me another $100 just to get the right bearrings. If i get the other crank, im like 99% sure that i can get him to polish it for $70 since the first one wasnt right. That'll be $160 to have a std size crank that is micropolished, plus the $3 bridge fare and gas for the 60ish mile round trip journey to go get the right crank. I'll also have a 6-bolt crank thats cut .10 under and micropolished to sell. If they do let me exchange the bearrings, i'll have to wait a week or so for the progress on my motor to start again and it wont cost me any more money. I'll just be running a cut crank.
What would you guys do? Spend a little more money to run a standard crank, or try to exchange the bearrings and wait an extra week to run a cut crank? Im leaning more towards going to pick up the std crank tonight or tomorrow morning and having it at the machine shop by tomorrow afternoon to start where we left off. I would have to pay a little more money, but id have an extra crank to sell.

Motor specs (1g 6-bolt, weisco 8.3's, skat rods, acl main bearrings, engine pro (acl) rod bearrings, fidanza flywheel, stock crank pulley)

 

[andymoraitis]

If you can afford it, get the standard crank so you'll have a fresh one in there. It's great piece of mind and I'm sure you'd feel better about it.

Andy

 

[TSIfreek]

If you can afford it, get the standard crank so you'll have a fresh one in there. It's great piece of mind and I'm sure you'd feel better about it.

Andy

I agree as well.

 

[T9S1i]

Man, i cant afford half of this motor but i bought the stuff anyways!

Im thinking about talking to my dsm mechanic that gave me the wrong crank in the first place. I was supposed to be buying a 0/0 crank and block, but he gave me a 0block and a .10 crank. It wasnt my fault that the crank was .10 under, it wasnt the machinist's fault for having it poilshed, as far as he knew (from what i told him) the crank was std size. And the only reason that i thought the crank was std size was because my mechanic told me that it was. So if there is a direction to point the finger of blame, its at my mechanic that sold me the wrong crank.

He offered to give me the right crank to go get polished, but im $90 in the hole for getting the first crank polished that i dont want to use/ shouldnt have to use. I think that he should take back the polished crank, pay me the $90 and give me the right crank.

I think im just going to give him a call in the morning and see what he wants to do about it.

 

[toybreaker]

I'm a little suprised your machinist didn't catch this.

I always measure everything I send out, just to make sure it's going to clean up/clearance out within spec.

I have had to eat this kind of mistake, because it's the right thing to do.

I don't know what to tell you as far as how to handle this with your machinist, but in the past, if tease: and I repeat if... ) something like this would happen, I would usually just call my crank guy and say I ****'d up, and he'd show mercy on me and polish another crank 'gratis (+ beer, ) because he wants to keep my business.

That's where admitting your mistakes make a difference, because then further down the road, if there's another issue, he'll know you're being honest with them, because you admit your mistakes and take care of them.

I, personally would rather not run a reground crank on these motors. Getting the fillet radius perfect on the edges of the journals isn't always achieved during a regrinding operation. The factory does a really nice job on these cranks, and I feel the aftermarket crank grinders don't always achieve the same quality. I'm not saying they can't do 'em right, I'm just saying I know the factoy did them up really nice.

If I'm not offsetting the pins or something esoteric that requires custom grinding the crank, I'd cross a few bridges to get a virgin, and then spec it out to my liking.

I think if you're cool to everybody, they'll work with you some, and you can all laugh about over a beer or two later down the road.

Edit; the guy who sold you the crank has some responsability to do the right thing here as well....if you don't even care enough to check/verify what you're selling, you are not somebody I would want to do business with.

 

[bigjdog84]

Just to save yourself some headache, you should just pickup the un-cut crank.
Cut cranks can work great if done correctly, but if you are that worried then you should just do what YOU want to do to make yourself comfortable.

On another note; $70-$90 is a lot to pay to get a crank just micropolished. Around here I'm paying $25 (lowest) to $45 @ various shops to get 4 cylinder cranks polished. You may want to search around in your local yellow pages. Its pretty difficult to mess up a polish job too

 

[T9S1i]

Well my dsm mechanic said that he'll buy the .10 under crank off of me and give me the correct one. It was his fault that he gave me the cut crank in the first place when it should have been the virgin one. His precision measuring tools kind of suck so he cant verify that its an uncut crank. I think he had 3 cranks in the shop and 2 of them were cut so i have another 50/50 chance of getting a cut crank. I might just take both from him and get them measured at the machine shop.

Ive dealt with both shops in the past (dsm and machine) and both have great customer service, this whole situation was just a miscommunication ending up in a $90 bill that has to go to someone, so my mechanic is going to pick it up for not giving me the right crank.

It will most likely be faster just getting the right crank to the machine shop on monday then having to wait a week or so for the new bearrings to come in from slowboy.

$90 did seem steep to me. How much do you guys pay to get your rotating assembly balanced ?

 

[Defiant]

Well my dsm mechanic said that he'll buy the .10 under crank off of me and give me the correct one. It was his fault that he gave me the cut crank in the first place when it should have been the virgin one. His precision measuring tools kind of suck so he cant verify that its an uncut crank.

And you're patronizing this shop because..... why? WTF