Plugging Oil Squirters

[Kmiller86]

I have tried to look everywhere but cant find the answer that I am looking for. When you remove the oil squirters or plug them, what do you plug them with?? Just a bolt???

 

[TSIfreek]

Plug them with a bolt and a copper or aluminum washer. Use blue locktie on the bolt as well.

 

[Kmiller86]

Ok thanks. I searched everywhere and read many threads but never found that. Thanks alot.

 

[Wheels-a-turnin]

Why are you removing them?

 

[project_tsi]

If I remember correctly, the thread and pitch is 12mm X 1.25. When I blocked mine, I just bought some bolts, cut them to my desired length ( you want them to protrude into the block about as far as the squirter bolts do). I used copper washers and red loctite to ensure no leaks or backing out.

 

[OverboostXS]

If I remember correctly, the thread and pitch is 12mm X 1.25. When I blocked mine, I just bought some bolts, cut them to my desired length ( you want them to protrude into the block about as far as the squirter bolts do). I used copper washers and red loctite to ensure no leaks or backing out.

Yeah sizes are correct I used Oil Galley Plugs.

 

[diambo4life]

Just beware that your OP will go through the roof especially if you have eliminated your BSs'. Porting the relief bypass hole at the oil filter is not an option.

 

[Maglin]

Just beware that your OP will go through the roof especially if you have eliminated your BSs'. Porting the relief bypass hole at the oil filter is not an option.

yes it will. Also this means that now above 4K your oil pressure will be 100+ PSI. This is well over enough to cause your oil filter bypass valve to open and you will no longer be filtering your oil.

So it's a bad idea. And no amount of relief bypass will be enough. You could probably use a AFPF to regulater oil pressure. but then you need to take another line from the oil filter housing and large like -6 AN and then drill a new oil return in the pan for it. It would work but pretty expensive just to get rid of the piston cooling oil squirters.

 

[steel_3d]

How do n/t 6-bolts work then?

 

[ForceFedRed]

yes it will. Also this means that now above 4K your oil pressure will be 100+ PSI. This is well over enough to cause your oil filter bypass valve to open and you will no longer be filtering your oil.

The filter bypass is opened by pressure across the filter media, not total system pressure. Even at over 100psi the filter shouldn't bypass unless the media is clogged and a pressure differential great enough to overcome the bypass spring exists between the inlet and outlet of the filter. If your filter is bypassing at operating pressures, (and you have a way to monitor this) you need to look into a different brand of filter.

JRM

 

[pjules]

Whay are you removing the squirters? 7bolt? If it is to prevent crankwalk, then your wasting your time.

 

[paper_clip_boy]

I Heard that you need to removed them when building a stroker. Can anyone confirm this?

I need to know.

 

[Kmiller86]

I needed to remove them when I built the stroker. My pistions hit them. I tried to bend them first out of the way but that wasn't going to work so my final option was to remove them. Also the oil squiters are used to cool stock cast pistions, I talked to many shops and they all said that they are totally unnecessary for a forged alum. pistion, they can disapate heat well enough on their own.

 

[steel_3d]

Why would you want them as hot as possible? First of all that's not good for knock/preignition resistance, and secondly people seize forged pistons all the time.

 

[diambo4life]

Why would you want them as hot as possible? First of all that's not good for knock/preignition resistance, and secondly people seize forged pistons all the time.

Precisely!

It's one thing removing the squirters due to interference, but removing them because "they are not needed" is complete & utter BS. Any additional cooling you can get whether with stock or forged pistons helps.

i want my forged as hot as possible.

 

[TSIfreek]

I completly agree. You can run alittle tighter wall clearance also with the squirts since the pistons will be a little cooler. Its also good because you have oil shooting right under the pistons and then drain into the piston pin bore at the top of the rod to keep that well lubricated.

 

[94awdcoupe]

I never consider removing squirters. That oil cooling on the bottom of the piston is very important. Stroker pistons always need to be notched. This is the correct way. Trying to bend them is not a good idea. That will just make it too close to the crank. Evo 8 squirters have a much better angle than 1g style. They will requires less notching of the pistons. I add squirters to 2.4 blocks when I build them. I also take the time to drill aftermarket rods when building a motor for myself.

 

[Spoolin98]

Subscribing....

 

[TSIfreek]

You talking about the small pin hole on the side of cast rods for extra squirting action on the cylinder walls?

I would be worried about the structural problems that may be encountered in high output motors with that done.

IMHO oil squirters are completely overrated for forged type pistons. I would rather have my piston hotter, and closer to the walls, to yield me a smidgeon better seal, than have oil blown up under the skirt and slap all around.

Wow im just going to let this one go.

 

[BrokenTsi]

From someone who was skeptical about removing them originally, i can honestly say id do it again. After porting my relief valve, and upgrading my oil cooler to a B&M unit with -8an lines, my oil pressure is no higher than my friends freshly built motor with squirters. 5,000mi into this build, and i beat the every living shit outta this thing and drive it every day as its my only vehicle. No problems. Im not arguing that squirters are overrated or anything, just that from my personal experience ive seen not a single problem.

 

[steel_3d]

4g63-gst, so you have any pics of the notching on the pistons?

I'm slightly worried about balancing, and to a lesser extent about structural integrity... Maybe weird scuffing if done wrong?

 

[94awdcoupe]

4g63-gst, so you have any pics of the notching on the pistons?

I'm slightly worried about balancing, and to a lesser extent about structural integrity... Maybe weird scuffing if done wrong?

I dont have any pics of notching. There is no way it would make the skirt weaker. We are only talking a 4-6mm deep notch. Install the pistons in the bore with out rings. Let them tap the squirters till you see where they hit. Then grind that spot down. Dont worry about the balance either. Aluminum is very light. The notch istelf weighs maybe one one half of one tenth of a gram. Your difference in piston weight if your notches aren't perfect would likely be in the hundreds of a gram range.

The hole on the factory rods IS a piston oiler. Both oilers are aimed at the hotter exhaust side of the piston. Those who quickly remove the squirters just dont understand their value. If they weren't necessary the factory wouldn't go through the trouble of having two. The EVO 8 pistons have a cavity under the crown to catch the oil, giving the oil more time to absorb the heat before it returns to the pan. Very slick.

The notion that a forged a forged piston doesn't need a squirter is silly. Forged pistons expand more than cast pistons. So it becomes even more important to keep the temps stable. To much heat in a forged piston will lead to too much expansion and scuffing. Forged pistons are not any more capable at removing heat than a cast piston. They can just take more heat before melting.

 

[94awdcoupe]

Yes but the arguement is to properly clearance your piston for your application once your at that point in the forged catagory. I'd be more worried about depending on the oiling system to cool your piston XX amount for XX clearance, than the clearancing on my piston to bore without cooling period.

If you ran squirters on pistons that were clearanced without the thought of cooling them, it would seem to me that the pistons would actually be smaller in the bore, and cause more skirt damage that way.

I'm still waiting on what you talked about drilling on aftermarket rods. Are you talking about the oiling hole, on the side of the rod, that sprays the bores? Because I have a pair of stock rods with me, and only the squirter hits the piston crown.

The factory rod bearings have a hole drilled in them that leads to a hole in the rod. The hole in the rod squirts oil on the underside of piston crown. IT IS NOT FOR SPRAYING THE WALLS. I drill aftermarket rods to do the same.

Forged pistons set at .0065 and two squirters are not going to be loose in the bore from the oil cooling. I have witnessed forged pistons set at .014 clearance and run that way. Shop that built the motor made a mistake measuring pistons. Car was driven hard every day for three months before ring seal became unacceptable. If this engine had been a drag car it would have gone a couple of seasons without needing to be corrected. Car was not down on power and was not as noisy as you would think.

 

[94awdcoupe]

I guess it does both. The squirt is pointed toward the edge of the skirt. But will hit the underside of the crown.