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Reground Stroker Cranks?

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paper_clip_boy

15+ Year Contributor
132
3
Nov 24, 2005
Ottawa,
I read that the 4G63 cranks come Nitrided from the factory and if you cut them .020" it will remove all the Nitride Coating.

My question is pertaining to the 4G64 Cranks. Are they Nitrided from the factory aswell?
If they are not, what are some possible ways of strengthening them to make them stand up to 500whp?

Are the 4G64 cranks ok to be reground?
 
people who know their stuff read this thread and reply.......I have been wondering the same thing myself too.
 
Mitsubishi states that the cranks are non serviceable items. I'm not one to argue with them, altough some have had good luck w/ cut cranks, I just don't like to chance it.
 
Ultimatedsm said:
Doesn't Sheppherds Talon have a stock crank in it?
HaHA Im sure he is running a Biliet crank buy now but for many years he did run new stock cranks. Do a search on this topic its no difftent from the 4g63 crank as far as strength. :beatentodeath:
 
Does anyone have an actual answer to my questions? Although finding out that the cranks are non-serviceable items was helpful, so was the info on having good luck with cut cranks.

Please I need answers as I need to make my rebuild budget.



paper_clip_boy said:
I read that the 4G63 cranks come Nitrided from the factory and if you cut them .020" it will remove all the Nitride Coating.

My question is pertaining to the 4G64 Cranks. Are they Nitrided from the factory aswell?
If they are not, what are some possible ways of strengthening them to make them stand up to 500whp?

Are the 4G64 cranks ok to be reground?
 
The cranks can't be turned as already stated. A 4g64 crankshaft in good condition will easily handle 500hp. Find a crank that is in spec and you won't have any problems.
 
I will take GVR4592's advice and find a crank that hasn't been cut and is still in spec. Are there any suggestion on good ways to strengthen the cranks. I would like to build an engine that I have room to grow and that isn't on the brink of blowing up. I know of Nitriding, cryo and shot peening. Are there any other processes that are good or should I pick one of the one's I suggested.
 
By Mitsu saying "non serviceble", this includes cutting the crank. And yes, many people do run cut cranks w/ no problems. I'd just not want a cut crank in something I plan on making high hp in.
 
Not 100% sure on the stroker cranks but heard of guys breaking them here and there.
I went with low mileage 2.4 crank and simply had it polished. I would have went with new forged eagle crank but they just came out after I had my engine in the car.
If take it apart again down the road likey going to install the eagle crank.

I am not going to be tracking my car much at all so figure it should hold up in mostly street use.
 
The factory mitsubishi manual for a 1G says to not cut the crank or the surface hardening will be lost. The 2g manual does not make the same statement. It says its okay to cut the crank. The 2g crank or any 7 bolt crank is not nitrided from the factory. So it doesn't make a difference whether you cut it or not. And it is a very good idea to have your 7bolt crank nitrided. The surface hardening from nitiding is amazing. May even make it resistant to crankwalk like 6bolt cranks. Camshafts are nitrided. Those that are not wear out in just a few thousand miles. Just call crower or web and ask how important nitriding is. Both had to replace batches of cams that were sent out without being hardened.
 
The crank should be cut in 2 stages.
half the cut before nitriding the the other half after nitriding.
This is also better in case of twist .
 
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