08-19-2004, 07:29 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: Lancaster, Ohio
Registered: Jul 2004
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cam break-in [Merged 12-7] camshaft cams camshafts breakin
Hey guys, just got my car together with new cams and gears and I didn't see anything with the new cams about a break in period. Anyone have any thoughts on a break in period when just cams were installed? I've always tried to go about 500-700 miles on a new engine to break it in, but never installed just cams before....
Thanks. 
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08-19-2004, 07:43 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Chesterfield, Virginia
Region: Mid Atlantic
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Since the 4g63 uses a hydraulic roller type cam, break in is very minimal. If you replaced the followers with new, 200 miles will be fine. If you just replaced the cams without the followers, 20 miles at the most is needed. What cams did you get and are you still using the stock springs? If so, how many miles on them? I would recommend pulling the valve cover and inspecting the springs after a few high rpm runs. Ive seen high mileage stockers break after a few miles with big cams.
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Keith
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08-20-2004, 03:36 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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From: glorious Galt, California
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Ask the cam manufacturer. Usual break-in for new camshafts is ten minutes at a 2500-3000 rpm idle.
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08-20-2004, 06:44 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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From: Lancaster, Ohio
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Thanks for the input... it seems that the old ways of working on V8's and today's cars aren't totally lost  When I started the car I kept the idle up a bit without revving too high, and tried not to keep it in the same spot for more than a couple of seconds. I was just curious if there was anything different for the DOHC engine, since it seems half the things that I know for a fact about my old 455 aren't coming into much use here
And I actually have a 420A engine, it's my work car and since I lost the timing belt I decided to play a little to give it some more spunk. I went with the Crane 0012's, Fidanza gears, and a Pacesetter header (just a word of advice, don't use the cat gasket with the Pacesetter, go get a thinner copper one, mine made it 20 miles before half of it blew out). I have all original springs, lifters (or whatever you call them) and ?followers?
Thanks again guys, guess I just needed some reassurance 
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08-22-2004, 12:01 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Unverified Email Address
From: Miami, Florida
Region: Southeast
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how did those cams work out for you man?please let me know i'm thinking bout cams myself,just not sure if the 12's are too spicy for everyday use. 
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08-22-2004, 01:25 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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DSM N/T Wiseman
From: Chicago, Illinois
Region: Midwest
Registered: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,919
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by speedy13
how did those cams work out for you man?please let me know i'm thinking bout cams myself,just not sure if the 12's are too spicy for everyday use. 
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ya same how do you like them? except im worried the 12's wont be spicy enough  maybe 16's for me.
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08-22-2004, 03:27 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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From: Lancaster, Ohio
Registered: Jul 2004
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To be 100% honest, I don't notice much of a difference, but then again, my car was in pieces for 2 months too and I haven't messed with valve timing at all. When it first went back together I thought it was a little slower. I also had a Check Engine light that stayed on for about 2 days (code 43 according to the flashing Check Engine light). Once the light went off (for some strange and mysterious reason) it started to pick up a little. It also has a smooth idle now instead of lopey idle like it did before when the CE light was on.
I'm taking it a little easy until I get around to changing the oil again, but if I ever get it to the strip or put on a dyno I'll definitely let everyone know. Oh, and BTW, I just put these in because I had the head off at the time so I haven't got around to getting a CAI yet, that would probably make a little difference.
And I've really got tips if you decide to go with a Pacesetter header :thumbdown
Ah, screw it.. thinking of going out there and doing a quick burnout and launch on the road to give a more honest report..... thinking....
Oh, I almost forgot, get in touch with me if you are going to use Fidanza cam gears, I've got some tips for you... those things gave me a headache!!!!!
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08-22-2004, 11:05 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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DSM N/T Wiseman
From: Chicago, Illinois
Region: Midwest
Registered: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,919
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16's it is
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09-28-2005, 06:50 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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From: Augusta, West Virginia
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cam break-in [Merged 12-7] camshaft cams camshafts breakin
Ive done about 50 searches and cant find what I'm looking for. I'm not sure where to put this, so I figured this would be the safest place. Is there a required break-in method for cams? I'm putting HKS 272's in car and I'll have it running in a week or so and I wanted to get some info on the break-in method.
Donnie
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09-28-2005, 07:47 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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From: Wheaton, Illinois
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Um...15 seconds? I was told it's critical they are properly lubed for the first time you fire it up, with the special sauce. Some pink goo, can't recall the name, but it's specifically for freshly installed parts, you could most likely find Camshaft Lubricant and it would be what I'm talking about.
After that as long as there is oil in the motor you should be fine.
Does anyone have anything to contradict or support?
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09-28-2005, 08:32 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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From: Fargo, North Dakota
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yeah i think some engine assembly lube on all the parts in contact with metal (lobes and between the bearings) should be lubed just to prevent any premature wear or something that could occur on start-up...i was told that a set of camshafts will give you night to day results, so good luck!
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09-28-2005, 08:42 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Eau Claire, Michigan
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I have not installed a new set of cam yet, however I will be doing so soon. I will be installed Comp 101200's.
However, in the past, I have swapped stock cams out in 4G63 heads w/ no ill side affects. This is when the head is off the car and completely dry. I simply lube up all cam journals and cam itself w/ a thin amount of grease or assembly use. As long as you make sure the grease or lube does not come off before startup, then your fine. Oil will circulate quickly enough for it not to cause any concern.
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Dan Kasun
93 GSX
05 Ram 1500
06 GSX-R750
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09-28-2005, 08:54 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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From: glorious Galt, California
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Camshaft break-in is usually someting on the order of a 2500-RPM idle for fifteen minutes. However, ask the specific cam manufacturer what they recommend.
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09-29-2005, 02:14 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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From: Nunya, California
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One thing many people neglect doing: WASH your new cams with a scrub brush. this is critical. It will remove any residual grit from the grinding process.
Of course, you'll also want to use assembly lube. 
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09-29-2005, 05:07 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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From: Augusta, West Virginia
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break-in
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Defiant
Camshaft break-in is usually someting on the order of a 2500-RPM idle for fifteen minutes. However, ask the specific cam manufacturer what they recommend.
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This is more of what I was looking for. Thanks to everyone for the quick responses. I was hoping the directions in the box told me the required break-in time, but they were in all Japanese. I looked on the HKSUSA website and they said to ask the dealer where they were purchased. I wanted to avoid that and find out here. Anyone have the instructions in English?
Thanks
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09-29-2005, 05:27 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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From: Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada
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Yeah 2500-3000 RPM for 15 minutes straight, make sure not let off the gas.
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09-29-2005, 05:35 AM
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#17 (permalink)
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DSM Wiseman
From: Eau Claire, Michigan
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Lunch_Box
Yeah 2500-3000 RPM for 15 minutes straight, make sure not let off the gas.
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Care to elaborate why 2500 to 3k? Just wonderning why it couldn't be id'eing at 1500 and do the same?
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Dan Kasun
93 GSX
05 Ram 1500
06 GSX-R750
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09-29-2005, 07:08 AM
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#18 (permalink)
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From: Wheaton, Illinois
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I feel like we are going to end up with the motor break in procedure discussion.
I've also read:
"DO NOT ALLOW THE ENGINE SPEED TO DROP BELOW 1200 RPM. This high rpm break-in is critical, as low rpms put more load on the cam lobes"
Is there a perfect way? Yes I'm sure 5 different ways will give you the same results, but bottom line, have lots of assembly lube on them (don't accidentally rub some off during the install) and all will be fine.
My feeling is, with a new motor, you also have new cams, so wouldn't the break in for new cams have to mimic the break in for a new motor? 
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Andy
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09-30-2005, 04:37 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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Moderator
From: glorious Galt, California
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by project_tsi
Care to elaborate why 2500 to 3k? Just wonderning why it couldn't be id'eing at 1500 and do the same?
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Valvetrain acceleration rates, use of the acceration and deceleration ramps, oil supply, work-hardening of the cam lobe surfaces. It's like pushing any heavy load, once you have some momentum it's easier to keep it moving than to push slowly.
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05-09-2006, 07:08 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: chicago, Illinois
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Cam break-in?
I was wondering if there is a need to "break-in" cams? I doutb it could be anything else but, when I get teh car into 3000+ rev range while driving, I think there is a whining coming from the cams, I cannot confirm this but I doubt it would be coming from elsewhere, unless its my alternator belt, nether the less, everythign has 60 miles on it, fresh rebuild. Any input appreciated.
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05-09-2006, 10:56 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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Proven Member
From: White Oak, Pennsylvania
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A tight timing belt can whine, and cams are not break-in items.
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