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97 eclipse spyder wont start

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csc52blue

Probationary Member
10
0
Feb 5, 2011
middletown, Ohio
need a lil advice love my car runnign the standard shift 2.4 sohc nt spyder backing out of drive way pnee day and put car in 1st gear went to take off and car fell on its face tried for around 5 minutes to start and finally it started sounding like it was running on 2 cylenders changed the plugs and ran good for a couple minutes then fouled them out again burning gas like crazy and heres the kickr i have to startr the car with ether before it will run on its own i have already changed the aic tps maf map temp sensor crank and cam sensor timing components cleaned the carbon track from the intake and ran seafoam through the motor cause the car was smoking black when i hit the gas im just lost someone mentioned low compression would i possible need to shange the head gasket even though there is no antifreeze in the oil or overheating though when i remove my oil cap after running the oil on the cap looks milky but thats the only place it looks like that or maybe rings in lost please some one help :cry::banghead:
 
need a lil advice love my car runnign the standard shift 2.4 sohc nt spyder backing out of drive way pnee day and put car in 1st gear went to take off and car fell on its face tried for around 5 minutes to start and finally it started sounding like it was running on 2 cylenders changed the plugs and ran good for a couple minutes then fouled them out again burning gas like crazy and heres the kickr i have to startr the car with ether before it will run on its own i have already changed the aic tps maf map temp sensor crank and cam sensor timing components cleaned the carbon track from the intake and ran seafoam through the motor cause the car was smoking black when i hit the gas im just lost someone mentioned low compression would i possible need to shange the head gasket even though there is no antifreeze in the oil or overheating though when i remove my oil cap after running the oil on the cap looks milky but thats the only place it looks like that or maybe rings in lost please some one help :cry::banghead:

My GST did a similar thing (minus the smoking and milky oil). I would have to say it's your compression. Do a compression test to be safe. Did you drive it while it was having the problem? If so, how was it running?
 
yeah i drove it it was missing as i take off and rpms stay under 1000 doesnt want to run on its own sometimes fouling out the plugs how did you fix yours i found a motor for mine but with all the work mine has done i dont want to go back to bone stock my motor was bored .40 over and had the cam ajdusted and said to have bigger injectors but thasts from the previous owner i have 147k on the dash reading
 
yeah i drove it it was missing as i take off and rpms stay under 1000 doesnt want to run on its own sometimes fouling out the plugs how did you fix yours i found a motor for mine but with all the work mine has done i dont want to go back to bone stock my motor was bored .40 over and had the cam ajdusted and said to have bigger injectors but thasts from the previous owner i have 147k on the dash reading

Well, mine isn't fixed yet, I'm just in. The process of fixing it, and taking the time to do upgrades at the same time. When I did my compression test, cyl 1 & 4 where right around the 47 psi mark and cyl 2 & 3 where around 70 psi. I did a leak test after which lead me to believe my valves were bad so that's when I tore my engine apart. Then found out the pistons and rings needed replacement too. Cyl 1 had a bad oil leak while cyl 4 was starved for oil. Cyl 2 & 3 seemed fine. So I'm replacing the pistons, boring the block .20 over, and getting an all new valvetrain including cams (mine have scarringt on the lobes like they weren't getting oil at all). I'd say you should start there at the compression. When I first had my issue, I was accelerating on maybe 50% throttle when it dropped all power and couldn't go over 40mph and barely reached 3k rpm. After the compression test, I realized it did that because of the compression dropping.
 
i can get in my car after i shoot some ether inthe the intake manifold start it let it idle for a minute and drive it down the stree getting up to speed fine just missfire or misses period fouling out the plugs i mean its has the power just seens to want to foul the plugs everytime i put new ones in it and yeah seems like i dont burn oil just gas but oil light isnt on
 
Well I just talked to a friend of mine here at work who knows more general maintenance. He says since you got milky oil on your oil cap, then you more than likely need to change the head gasket. If the gasket's bad, 1- coolant will mix with your oil making it the color it is, 2- oil will get into the cylinders and cause your plugs to foul out like you've mentioned. He also said if you haven't checked your O2 sensors, they could be bad as well and affect your engine. Would be smart to go hook up a code reader to see if anything else is bad. But he says, the gasket is most likely what's wrong.
 
yeah i finally got the head off to inspect the valves and cylender 2 i think LOL has burt exhaust valves bad caped with crap on them pistons looked clean no scaring on the walls drained the coolant and oil before removing and still had coolant in cylender 1 and 3 or 2 and 4 how ever that goes o and i have it put on the scan at auto zone and it came up o2 and maf i changed them and still didnt help anything
 
Glad to hear your pistons and cylinders are in good shape. Most likely gonna need a valvetrain replacement along with the head gasket. I'm in the process of that on mine, but unfortunately gotta get new cams too.
 
sounds like you need a new head all together i found a motor for my car with 55 k on it out of a wrecked 98 spyder for 200 probably just gonna grab that and throw it in mine till i find the awd setup i been wanting to install in my spyder i already have my motor completely removed from my car so ill just see if the new motor fixes the problem :confused:
 
Yeah, I already priced a completely new oem head from a couple places and they all cost more than I'll be paying to just replace the internals. Already got a set of cams from a galant vr4 coming down from someone on crag's list. All the rest of my parts are gonna be in the $3-$400 range so in the end it'll be cheaper than $729.00 for a new one minus cams.
 
thats the price we pay to have a good running nice fast car LOL but they are so worth it in the long run cause no matter what the resale value is worth more than a honda any day LOL i figure ill just do the motor swap put a new clutch in and cv shafts change the controll arms and tie rods and be done with it for another couple months as long as the new motor fixes the problem then i dont know what the problem could be and do you know where i can get a stronger down pipe the torque in my car keeps ripping my flex pipe in half and breaking my mounts i ordered poly mounts to fix the mount problem but cant find a better down pipe or header for the 4g64 sohc
 
so yeah i have my engine completely apart getting ready to order the rebuild kit for it and my neigbor came home without his 99 eclipse oz edition and asks me if i wanna by it nice car 90k on the dash only wants 1300 but theres a catch he ran it into a ditch comes with 97 gst shell for parts you think it be worth fixing both fenders hood headlights radiator core support and windshield are destroyed air bags still good and still starts fine i get pics today nice black leather interior have the money but is it worth it :pray::ohdamn:
 
so yeah i have my engine completely apart getting ready to order the rebuild kit for it and my neigbor came home without his 99 eclipse oz edition and asks me if i wanna by it nice car 90k on the dash only wants 1300 but theres a catch he ran it into a ditch comes with 97 gst shell for parts you think it be worth fixing both fenders hood headlights radiator core support and windshield are destroyed air bags still good and still starts fine i get pics today nice black leather interior have the money but is it worth it :pray::ohdamn:

Hey, sorry I keep forgetting to come back and check all my postings:ohdamn:
So you'd be getting the one that's in the ditch, plus another parts car for $1300? If so, you can't beat that offer. If it were me, and I had the money, I'd buy it. But I can't say no to DSMs, they're my addiction. Let me know how it goes (or went, since it's been awhile).
 
yeah i bought it and straightened the frame and put new core support on it. ordered new 3 inch exhaust to a 5 inch pipe for it with new header and cat delete carbon fiber hood and steering wheel havent decided if i want to lower it or leave it stock height. i found a 5 speed swap for it cause i cant stand to drive auto and looking at the 420a turbo kits wondering if the motor can handle it. still havent touched my spyder yet have to order the rebuild kit for the motor and get a couple sensors to complete the rebuild hopingmyecu isnt bad though. it sucks to see it sit there but rather it sit then sell it
 
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