Timing Adjustments 2G 6-Bolt

[Cablefed]

I need to check my base timing on my car that now has a 6 bolt. I'm aware of a certain plug on 95's and 1st Gens that have to be grounded to set the timing. As for the 2g's that don't have an adjustable CAS I'm not aware of anything that needs to be grounded. Now that I have the 6 bolt is there anything on the ECU I need to ground to set the timing with? I have a pocket logger so that should help me with what I'm seeing from the ECU side. This is my first timing adjustment so I'm a little stupid on the subject. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Cablefed]

Nobody knows this?

 

[Agent Ezzard]

Just plug in the logger and I'm the gun toward the pulley and match what the what the pulley shows with what the logger displays. Before the wholw process I used a paint marker on the pulley notch so that it shows up easier under the gun's strobe. If you don't know make sure the car is at full operating temp and idling properly.

 

[Cablefed]

I got my logger up and running, finally, hooked it up to the car and found that at 750 RPM's I'm getting 12-15 degrees timing. I have not bought a light yet for the simple fact that I wanted to know if the logger will read the timing based on what the ECU sees. I tried to retard the timing a bit via the CAS and still no luck I was pulling like 12 degrees. Do I need to check the timing with a light as well?

I also found out I have the random misfire code which I reset and will be pulling my TPS to see if that helps. Any suggestions? Thanks.

 

[Agent Ezzard]

Base timing on an ugrounded ECU should be around 8* and with the ECU grounded it should hold at 5* so that adjustments can be made with the timing light. The ECU will bounce timing around a tad bit under an idle condition but adjusting the CAS should make the ECU try to compensate and the idle will lower or rise depending on if you retard or advance the timing with the CAS.

As for the RM, Disconnecting the TPS is some what of a temp fix. The only drawback that might occur is stalling. This might occur when you press the clutch in after a hard acceleration and the RPM is high (somewhere above 4500). This is because the ECU doesn't know when to ilde due to the lack of TPS input. You can counteract this by setting your idle a little higher than 750RPM but only after you set your base timing appropriately.

So to sum it up, get the light and match the timing with the ECU. You'll be on the happy until you realize that without the TPS input a S-AFC can't do its job properly and you'll have to invest in a DSMLink.

 

[Cablefed]

Did you go the DSMLink route? I did some looking into the program and its not so much the money its the benefits this software will offer to the car. It looks as if the AFC won't be needed if the DSM link is present. Thanks for you help.

 

[Agent Ezzard]

Driving around for about 10 months now and on the second 6 bolt ,I have tried both the potentiometer mod and the TPS temp. fix. I finally bought one from a guy around here who decided to part out his car. The cost per benefit factor that a DSMLink offers is unparalleled.

 

[Cablefed]

Do you also run an AFC?

 

[98TsiAWD]

If you have DSMlink, an SAFC is pretty much worthless.

 

[Agent Ezzard]

To answer your question no I never ran both at the same time.