1g Oil Squirters.

[98TsiAWD]

Should I replace them? I am using a 6 bolt block that had 113k on them. I know the 2g squirters are junk, but should I get new 1g squirters or just leave the old ones in?

 

[Rick@AP]

If they are working fine then I would take them off and clean them out (along with the galley) and put them back in. If they are bad, I'd probably remove them and weld up the holes.

 

[98TsiAWD]

Well I dont know how or have a way to test them. So I better replace them. Where can I order some new 1g 6 bolt oil squirters?

 

[Rick@AP]

Try Concelli Mitsu, however for the same amount of dollars you could have a machine shop just weld up the holes.

 

[98TsiAWD]

Originally posted by Rick@AP
Try Concelli Mitsu, however for the same amount of dollars you could have a machine shop just weld up the holes.

I want to keep em tho, I dont have ceramic coated pistons so I need something to keep the heat down.

 

[dsmturboawd]

if i remember correctly, the 1g squirters are worse that the 2g's. i could me mixed up however. someone help me out here. tia.

 

[Rick@AP]

2g's had a habit of not working, which some believe may help in causing CW.

 

[98TsiAWD]

1g Squirters are good, 2g Squirters suck ass.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Originally posted by Rick@AP
2g's had a habit of not working, which some believe may help in causing CW.

that is correct. 2g oil squirters had a tendency to clog up which is why oil was not getting to where it needed to be. less oil = more friction = crank that walks.

but remember, you have to learn to crank before you can learn to walk

 

[Defiant]

Originally posted by laserspeeddemon
that is correct. 2g oil squirters had a tendency to clog up which is why oil was not getting to where it needed to be. less oil = more friction = crank that walks.

I thought the 2G oil squirters were suspects in CW because they jammed _open_ and caused a possible reduction in oil pressure to the crank thrust bearing.

 

[cait sith]

And I've even heard theories that the oil squirters have very little/if anything to do with crankwalk.

Oil pressure can get up to over 8.5 bar (that's ~123 psi) on 4G63's when they're cold. If the oil squirters got clogged and that causes crankwalk, I'd think there would be just about every single block coming in with crankwalk.

I'm still thinking it's still crappy machining/casting work on the account of Mitsubishi Motors, America. Yay for Normal, Illinois.

 

[Rick@AP]

Originally posted by cait sith
I'm still thinking it's still crappy machining/casting work on the account of Mitsubishi Motors, America.

No doubt it is that as well. Anyone that has ever seriously tried to deburr and clean up a 4g63 block will tell you that.

 

[Defiant]

But the motors and transmissions were imported from Japan. Builders with relatives in Hiroshima, perhaps?

 

[cait sith]

IIRC, the 2G blocks and cranks were manufactured in the good ole USA.

 

[98TsiAWD]

Originally posted by cait sith
IIRC, the 2G blocks and cranks were manufactured in the good ole USA.

What is IIRC?

 

[Defiant]

"If I Recall Correctly", and he doesn't. At least, not according to my build sheet.

 

[98TsiAWD]

Where can I buy some new 1g squirters online?

 

[NosLaser]

Just remove them, soak them in ATF overnight, and clean them with brake cleaner. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Regards,

 

[98TsiAWD]

Originally posted by NosLaser
Just remove them, soak them in ATF overnight, and clean them with brake cleaner. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Regards,

I dont know if they are broke of not. Im gonna order some from Conicelli, they are only $6.54 each.
1-866-221-0913

 

[audiodude123]

The 1G squirters are superior, Magnus motorsports has the crankwalk theory breakdown. the only mentioned issue is rare cases of 1G squirter nipples that can break off if they have been bent in any way (because they are brazed onto the pressure relief fitting, replacing them is a good idea.

They cool the pistons good, and are a important part of a 4g63's reliability under power, they open at a mere 28psi and start cooling those pistons, with the help of a oil exit jet from the connecting rod spraying on the thrust side of the clyinder wall [the thrust side of a clyinder wall is the side facing opposite the crankshaft rotation] (which means they are open at 2500+ rpms). The main/primary oil pressure restrictor starts bleeding off pressure at 78psi.

 

[Suparata]

Originally posted by 98TsiAWD
I dont know if they are broke of not. Im gonna order some from Conicelli, they are only $6.54 each.
1-866-221-0913

A Squirter (Oil Jet MD329806) may me clogged so it needs to be cleaned. There is no reason for it to break if it is handled with care . Even if it would break later on it wouldn't have any impact on oil pressure to the rest of the engine, it would just not do it's purpose but like I said if handled with care it shouldn't break at the brazing..
On the other hand a Check Valve( MD050249) will cause a failure if it gets stuck open( usually because of foreign materials trapped ) .
So what is it you want to replace?
I don't think it's a good idea to remove them and plug the holes (hell I work my ass of to install them in Hybrids). They are one of the best thing these engines have.
Mitch.

 

[dsmturboawd]

Originally posted by laserspeeddemon
but remember, you have to learn to crank before you can learn to walk

interesting, i learned to walk at about 2 and i learned to crank at about 13.

 

[cprracing]

i would just remove them completly i had one come out on me and i lost all oil pressure and spun a rod bearing just eliminate the problem but just if you do use them make sure there in and torqued

 

[1fast97gsx]

sorry to bring back this thread but...

I bought a 6 bolt motor from a friend that was running horribly. I pulled the head off and the head gasket was blown, as well as the rings were worn, and the cylinder walls showed signs of wear. Anyways, as I take the oil pan off at the very bottom is 1 of my oil squirters. The tip broke off and fell into the pan. I really don't want to risk these damn things causing any problems so what are the side affects of just taking the squirters off and welding the holes shut? What would cause a squirter to just break off like that? The block also has the balance shafts removed.

 

[yo2001]

eliminating the squirter is not a good idea since it cools the pistons. I would just get another one