The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Post a Question

I Hate My DSM, or My DSM Hates Me [Merged 12-8]

Please Support STM Tuned

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Blitzed95Eclips

20+ Year Contributor
611
0
Jun 19, 2002
Hey,
My car is slow. Sometimes it makes me want to give it away and buy something else. Anyone have any advice on what will make it fast enough to beat civics with exhaust and intake besides getting a turbo. I already have intake and exhaust. What can you ugys tell me about aem pulleys and cam gears? Is there a big difference? Thanks for your help
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
nawwss ahah.. but you want to beat them all the time.. are you manual? if so you should take all civics cept sis with ease..

well many of the 2gnt guys have said the AFX UDP is well worth it, though im selling my car its broke now and i bought a udp and since my tbelt broke im putting the udp on even though im selling it once it runs.. so i can tell u how i like it when i get it.. but many have said its well worth the money.

cam gears, some have said they added some power but some said they havent.
 
just realized how foggy my picture is. well yeah let me know how the pulley works. ive never heard of that brand though. only aem i know of. where do you get that one?
 
You are having problems beating up on civics? You should be beating them. Something doesnt seem right I pull on them all the time in my 99 RS. Maybe you just have faster Civics where you live.
 
ok guys all this is what i put on a local list here so some of it may not apply to you....but here it is....and i am tearing my hair out about it.

maybe i can catch some of yall this morning. My car now has a tendency to die when returning to idle. and it has a tendency to idle poorly now. When driving down the street when you stop the car will just die when you get off the accelerator. The vacume gauge will go to -24" like always but will never pick back up and the engine will stop and the vacume will bleed off with it. The afm goes to 0 as in i am not getting fuel or not getting combustion (this happens when the engine is still spinning down at about 1500 rpms). I changed out the caps in the ecu and no help. This doesn't happen every time you stop and immediately restarts with a turn of the key. When the engine dies there is no CEL on (shouldn't it come on with the engine dead and the key in the on position?). Thinking new plugs and wires are needed anyway so i will start there...and a new air filter won't hurt either. The only thing done to the engine (recently) was a lenghtening of the intake piping to move the filter over 2 inches but that spacer was removed and it didn't help the problem. Gonna check the ISC too but once the car is idling properly it has only ever died once. The big problem seems to be when returning to idle.

Any help would be appreciated
90 tsi awd
Peter


giving up on day one

Well the problem is still there but it now doesn't always die (drops to 10"
and recovers slowly on occasion).

the isc may still be the problem but it appears to be working when hooked to the car. i can't say that for sure but i am starting to think that it may be the ecu....

the timing was at 2 degrees btdc i fixed it and when it idles it idles
better (and sometimes catches the idle now)

when the stall or almost fail happens the o2 sensor is reading <10 volts. it did this for about 10 seconds while trying to recover so i doubt it is the o2 lagging

the crap in the intake has been cleaned out alot. I cleaned everything in the tb extremely well so it can't be clogging all that stuff up anymore.

The ignition coil (primary) is reading 1.4 ohms when the book says it should be less than 1.0. Both coils read this way within .01 ohms of eachother so i am not sure this is a problem

The spark plug wires are anywhere from 3-9k ohms...anybody know if this is correct?

The filter was replaced and the old one kept because it is so crappy i have to show somebody.

The pcv checked fine when i was blowing and sucking.

The EGR is now blocked off....hopefully in time i will be able to clean all
the crap out.

The cylinders all check between 140-150 on a compression test.

There are no codes in the ecu after a fail and the cel is not on even though the engine is not running.

The caps were replaced just days ago.

The coolant lines are hooked back up the to intake to insure proper fiav
operation.

The intake system checkes good for leaks before the tb and after the tb it pulls 21" hg at idle and i can't hear any anywhere.

The idle switch is now working correctly....and the problem happens whether it is connected or not.

The base idle was correctly set now that the fiav is operating correctly.



The problem all started after i disconnected the intake air to the turbo and did a pressure test on the system. Is there anyway i possible injured the fuel solenoid or something? The car hasn't given me a problem before now relating to the engine. The problem is very evident after boost...when i go from high throttle and quickly return to idle and disengage tranny from the engine. If i have the tranny connected it doesn't buck at all it purrs like a kitten so i know the engine is dying slowly (or almost not dying). I just donno about a isc as it is 250 and all the coils check good and the the thing works when you cycle the key.


I will admit it i am running out of places to look and will soon have to
just start replacing things.

Does anybody have a 1g ecu i can borro for like an hour to see if that is
the problem? doesn anybody have a parts car that i can borrow an isc off of to see if that is the problem (hate to buy it and the dealer not take it back if it isn't). Also a maf might be causing the problem.

any ideas?
 
The system has already been checked for leaks and none were found. On the other hand the problem seems to be gone today and the only thing i did after i shut it off last night was un doo all the ingiton connectors to check the primary and secondary coils. Maybe some dirt got in there and it wasn't firing correctly...I still don't think it is fixed tho just that i scared the piss outta the gremlin causing it. Today it is going to get a fuel filter and i will check the old one for flow that may be part of my problem.
 
just keep researching on parts and mod tips, get some money and start building. Get out there and practice your driving and shifting, these two things are major problems of why people lose to smaller cars, you have a gst you should kill civics. There are alot of parts for not alot of money to improve performance, just do all the free mods first, get a catback run if you havent at a local shop. afx ud pulley like they said, cams and gears, air/fuel controller, injectors, header, straight pipe, intake manifold, porting and polishing the head, intake mainfold and throttle body will all help. And these are just some of the things that will improve flow and make more power. You can always go small shot of nos or a build up for even more power, then after all of this and more, go turbo.
 
How in the hell are you losing to civics ? Something is not right with your set up or something, GS-T's should eat civics, without any issues. i do understand that there is a weight issue but you out power them by 40 HP at least
 
get rid of all that weight and wasted money and loose the body kit, it looks great but really doesn't serve a purpose, like others have said just get out there and practice shifting and launches and what works for your car.
 
i dunno man but last i checked gst's are not slow. even if u r stock. somethin must be wrong man.
 
Originally posted by mdre21
get rid of all that weight and wasted money and loose the body kit, it looks great but really doesn't serve a purpose, like others have said just get out there and practice shifting and launches and what works for your car.
Click to expand...

all that weight?? hate to break it to you but i've never seen a proven difference in adding a body kit. it's just not signifigant in making a car faster or slower.
 
am i the only one that noticed he said he didnt have a turbo? but the car is listed as a GS-T, plus the fact that this is listed in the non-turbo performance section would also lead me to believe that this is not a GS-T. I'm thinking he is just an RS or GS and that would explain the civic whoopings he is recieving.
 
no big deal, if hes going off about being turbo when hes not, thens its stupid. But if hes mistaken cause he doesnt know much then cut him some slack, everyone has to start somewhere. So are you turbo or no.
 
I HATE MY CAR. this is the worst car i have ever owned. ITS SO SLOW. I HAD TO PLAY CATCH UP TO MY GIRLFRIENDS 98 HONDA CIVIC!!!!! I am sorry about the caps but i am very mad right now. My transmission is rebuilt and i have new ignition wires and all. Second gear surges when it switches and its a new transmission!! The oil dipstick is popping out everytime i go highway driving so i have to push it in everytime! I hate this car. Maybe if i had the turbo it would be better but i dont. I DEARLYYYYY Miss my Nissan 240sx. That car can eat this car alive!!!!! Also when you floor it the rpms hit 7,000 and it sounds like the engine is going to explode. All other cars i know of never let the engine even get that high! Im just waiting to blow the head gasket on it because it revs so high!!! I HATE THIS CAR
 
the doctor says if it hurts, then dont do it. dont rev it so high fool. the GS is only 140hp... not much to expect out of that. should be more than any civic w/o vtech, so maybe its not the car, maybe its the driver
 
i have an auto so its not like i have a choice to rev it so high. When i floor it thats what it does. I have to step on the gas 3/4 down for it to actually have decent pick up. I drove a 97 mirage with 92 horsepower and it had more kick than this!!
 
i think your expecting way too much out of a non turbo POS. shouldve saved and bought the right one so you could hear all the honduh people cry...."you already have a turbo and its alot easier for you to make power". so sell it while it still runs and get a turbo with the 5speed.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Boosted Fabrication
ECM Tuning
ExtremePSI
FIBA Motorsport
Fuel Injector Clinic
Innovation Products
Jacks Transmissions
JNZ Tuning
Kiggly Racing
Morrison Fabrications
Rix Racing
RockAuto
STM Tuned
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top