balance shaft eliminator kits

[Race94]

Has anyone done this?
what are your toughts on it?
can you feel a power increase?
any downsides?

Thanks

 

[candela]

-yes
-awesome and well worth the work if your doing something like a T belt or MM replacement, no worries....
-not me persoanally, I think some people say they do but its really in their heads...
-not at all, some people complain abotu idle but they are just basically ####ies

good luck!

 

[Race94]

what's the whole point of doing it?

 

[hose101772]

Risk reduction!

 

[kpt4321]

I have done it, I would suggest it to anyone.

You want the mitsubishi stubby shaft and plug, and either the mitsu or the RRE bearings. I prefer the RRE bearings, but if you use them, then you have to buy RRE's 50 dollar kit, which comes with their shaft and plug, which I do NOT recommend.

...Kyle T.

 

[62-1gsx]

or you can do it yourself, and spend like $1

free balance shaft removal

 

[Race94]

could someone explain to me what this actually does?
and does it have any downsides?

 

[forcedfedgsx]

what if you just took off the belt?? just a question

 

[RipperXX]

I have heard of ppl doing that... But I wouldn't.

 

[TotalEclipse112]

IF you just take off the belt, it won't do you any good.Because the front balance shaft is run by the belt so yest it will stop moving, but the back balance shaft is run though a gear in the oil pump.So if you do that it is only half a$$ed done.Also it will but a strain on the bearings in your motor because it will no longer balance the motor but try and rotate it foreward shortings the life of the bearings.Just buy the $40 kit and do it the right way.

 

[62-1gsx]

you dont need the $40 kit, go to the link, its all the same as the kit but its a do it yourself thing, all you have to buy is jb weld, which you have to buy anyway, and a freeze plug, which is like 35 cents, and then you do what the directions tell on the website and you then have the $40 kit for like a $1, yall must like spendin pointless money

 

[62-1gsx]

and the only downside to it is it feels like your car is shakin, especially if you have urathane mounts, its not actually shakin more you just feel it now..................i have done this like 30 times at my shop, dont buy the $40 kit unless you like wastin $$$$$$$$

 

[TalonspoolAWD]

I would also like to know why you would remove this. Does it actually give that much HP and not hurt your engine at all, if that is true why did mitsubishi put it there to begin with.
Tom

 

[kpt4321]

Mitsubishi put it there so that sisies would not whine about their cars vibrating.

It is important to note that 1.6l mirages did not come with balance shafts, showing that they are not necessary for reliabilty.

I would *NOT* do it that ghetto free way. The real way is not much more difficult, and only costs about 35 dollars.

The main problem with that method is that, when cutting the shaft, it is impossible to do so perfectly, so you will likely grenade the oil pump later on.

Also, when rotating the bearings, it is best to start with new ones.

It is MUCH easier to use the rubber mitsu plug then a freeze plug.


...kyle T.

 

[62-1gsx]

Originally posted by kpt4321
I would *NOT* do it that ghetto free way. The real way is not much more difficult, and only costs about 35 dollars.

...kyle T.

man what the hell are you talkin about the ghettoe free way, if you read the directions, " if your to lazy to take it apart, then just cut it off at the pump" otherwise take it all out gear and all, there aint no ghetto free way about it man, the website is just showing you a way to save money, if you wanna use a rubber plug then go ahead, but the freeze plug iz gonna hold up better, your talkin about crap being ghetto but yet you say the rubber plug would be easier, but it also cost more, annot much but dont talk about ghetto when i am just tryin to save the kid some $$$$$ when its the same kit, you dont have to cut anything, you take the oil pump apart amd pull out the shaft and the gear, problem solved, i do this crap for a livin, its not ghetto, i actually carry those bulcrap eliminator kits, but i dont sell thme , i tell my customers not to buy them, because its a waste of money, and as far as the bearing sleeve replacements that come eith the kit, you dont need them either, all you have to do is take the end of the balance shaft and knock out the ones that are in there, turn them 90 degreez and knock them back in, and if you take your time you wont mess them up and you wont lose oil pressure, so them bearing replacments are another waste of money, you dont have to worry about damaging them to mcuh any way, some scratches arent gonna hurt anything beings how the shafts arent gonna be there anymore, all they are for is to block off the oil feed hole to the bearing, you dont need new ones for that. SO BASICALLY THERE IS NO REAL WAY UNLESS YOU CALL WASTING TIME AND MONEY BY BUYING A POINTLESS KIT, THAN GO AHEAD AND "DO IT THE RIGHT WAY " but you will see what i am talin about when you buy the kit, and see that when you take out the old bearings and see you didnt need them, and how much $ a freeze plug is gonna save you, and not "having to cut anything "

 

[hostile]

Just read the vfaq and buy all the parts from mitsubishi, parts plus gaskets is still only around 30 dollars.

How can it only cost a dollar too, you will need to replace the gaskets also?

 

[62-1gsx]

i am talkin about the eliminator kit, not the other stuff yo u have to buy anyway...........i have not seen a eliminator kit come with all the gaskets and everything else that involves the kit for no $35-40 anywhere, show me a place i will give this one, ihave seen the kit by itself for $35-40, but not with all the gaskets too,

 

[MNGSX]

Smart "Ghetto" way.

Dealer 1.6 pump shaft.

Reuse the old bearings. You also can knock out the rear bearing and use it on one of the front bearings. The rear has no oil hole.

Use a frost plug or the rubber coated plug off your 2g head that wont get used by the 1g with the CAS there. I prefer the frost plug. Its better esp when you have it really welded.


I cut my shaft and threaded the back and used an allen plug to plug the galley. I did mic it to make sure the shaft fit the hole right and inspected the oilpump case and gears. I also polished and debured where I cut, It looks just like a factory part. I just recomend the factory shaft for those w/o machining exp.

 

[62-1gsx]

yeah

 

[kpt4321]

Your post is almost unreadable, try to use some punctuation next time.

If you had read the procedure on that site, you would have seen this:

"Just cut the shaft off next to the oil pump. Takes 5 minutes with a hacksaw, be patient. You can put the balance shaft back in the oil pump assembly to keep it from rotating while cutting. If you're using a dremel or cut off saw just mark where the oil pump ends on the shaft and cut it off there."

The related picture is here: http://www.ecanfix.com/~mdhamilton/images/balanceshaft/balanceoilcut.jpg

I have a HUGE problem with this step of the procedure. That shaft, which is a part of the oil pump, spins VERY fast, and if it is not balanced perfectly, then you CAN grenade your oil pump. When you cut it with a hacksaw, or a dremel, or a grinder, there is almost no chance of you doing it perfectly. You can SEE that the shaft is not going to be balanced anymore by looking at that picture! I personally do not want to take that rick with my motor. If you lose your oil pump, you will most likely lose the bottom end, possibly the turbo, and possibly the head. Doesn't sound like such a good idea to me.

If you want to reuse the old bearings, that is absolutely fine. I prefer to use new ones, just to be safe, since they are only about a buck each. However, again, you CAN use the old ones if you want.

Do not try to tell me that the rubber plug is ghetto. The rubber plug is a factory Mitsu part, used on the Mirage 1.6l cars to plug this hole. If it's used for this purpose from the factory, it'll be fine. People have been doing it that way for years, without any problems.

If you want to use a freeze plug, go for it. That's not going to hurt anything.

However, I repeat, you SHOULD NOT use anything but the stubby shaft for the oil pump. Cutting the balance shaft should not be an option.

If you were to take this gear and the balance shaft out of the oil pump, it wouldn't work any more. That is an integral part of the oil pump.

And, just FYI, I have done this procedure before, with the "kit" (I ordered the parts seperately), several times, so do not treat me like a spark-plug changing newbie. I do have experience.

I have even bought the shaft and plug from Conicelli, and the whole kit from RRE, so that I could use RRE's better blockoff bearings.

With things like this, I like to do it right the first time.


....Kyle T.

 

[62-1gsx]

dont worry BOUT the way i talk or type, but the site also says, OR YOU CAN DISASEMBLE THE OIL PUMP AND REMOVE IT BUT THEN YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THE SEAL, DONT WORRY BOUT PUNCUATION AND LEARN HOW TO READ, AND READ EVERYTHING................ OK MR I THINK I HAD SUMTHING AND WROTE A WHOLE PAGE ON NOTHING, STOP QUAOTIN CRAP IF YOU DONT EVEN READ THE WHOLE THING FIRST

(note: You won't see the pulley as in the pictures if you just remove the balance shaft from the oil pump without taking the oil pump apart, .which is the recommended way of doing it. Leave the oil pump intact so you don't have to replace the gasket

SEE THEY RECOMEND NOT TAKIN IT APART SO YOU DONT HAVE TO REPLACE THE GASKET, BUT I SAID I TAKE IT APART AND TAKE THE WHOLE GEAR ASSEMBLY OUT...............PLAYA, I DIDNT SAY THAT CUTTIN IT WAS THE BEST WAY, UNLESS YOU REALLY KNOW WHAT YOUR DOIN THEN CUT IT, OTHERWISE IF YOU DONT TRUST CUTTIN IT TAKE IT OUT

 

[MNGSX]

Originally posted by kpt4321
I have a HUGE problem with this step of the procedure. That shaft, which is a part of the oil pump, spins VERY fast, and if it is not balanced perfectly, then you CAN grenade your oil pump. When you cut it with a hacksaw, or a dremel, or a grinder, there is almost no chance of you doing it perfectly. You can SEE that the shaft is not going to be balanced anymore by looking at that picture! I personally do not want to take that rick with my motor.

With things like this, I like to do it right the first time.


....Kyle T.

I have a cut shaft and I still would'nt do it that way.

It may be spinning fast and be a critical part but I'm not to concerned with the balance. Once cut there is'nt a lot of weigh in that shaft and it is short and small diameter. The metal is also of conistent density.

MARK the shaft then PULL the rear pump cover and the shaft.

Do the cutting AWAY from the engine. I don't even grind my teeth around an open engine. Cut it straight and use a mic or caliper and a good grinder (or mill if you can use one) to make sure it is straight and flat. Measure then grind with mid grit untill its right then go fine for the final finish.

My cut shaft is round, square back (flat as heck), no sharp edges and smooth finish where I cut. You can make your own if you can pay attention to detail.

In other words if your attention to the details of the english language are like 62-1's buy the 1.6 shaft so you don't wreck anything.

 

[kpt4321]

####ing A.

First of all, you need to try to calm down and be intelligent here.

I do not care if you have to take the oil pump apart or not. It doesn't really matter.

What I care about, as I have made clear to everyone except for yourself, is the CUTTING of the balance shaft. IMO, it's just not a good idea.

MNGSX - Although I do not support your method, I appreciate you being mature about this. Also, your attention to detail makes me fear for your motor quite a bit less than I fear for anything this other fellow touches.

...Kyle T.

 

[MNGSX]

Looks pretty clean eh.

 

[MNGSX]

Damn it just go to my 6blt page.