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Installed my intake, uic and bov...now I have a question

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scorpion

20+ Year Contributor
148
2
Dec 6, 2002
Ok so I just finished putting on my Greddy type-s on my dejon uic pipes, and I installed my injen intake. Now after installing I'm out driving around and I hear a fluttering sound. I assume this is compressor surge. So I backed out the adjustment screw all the way, and still hear it at low boost...like 1 to 3 psi. So I take it apart and remove the small spring, adjust it half way and still hear the damn fluttering. What am I doing wrong? I have only the top nipple hooked up and that's it. And it's being dumped into the intake. This is the wierd part (to me atleast) When I'm in neutral, and I take it to 1 to 3 psi it vents fine. But if I have any load on the engine it stutters. Any help on this would be great. Thanks. Oh and I'm running the t-25, no boost controller, and running around 14 psi with spikes to 16...not sure if that makes any diferance with the fluttering problem or not. Peace.
 
Originally posted by scorpion
Ok so I just finished putting on my Greddy type-s on my dejon uic pipes, and I installed my injen intake. Now after installing I'm out driving around and I hear a fluttering sound. I assume this is compressor surge. So I backed out the adjustment screw all the way, and still hear it at low boost...like 1 to 3 psi. So I take it apart and remove the small spring, adjust it half way and still hear the damn fluttering. What am I doing wrong? I have only the top nipple hooked up and that's it. And it's being dumped into the intake. This is the wierd part (to me atleast) When I'm in neutral, and I take it to 1 to 3 psi it vents fine. But if I have any load on the engine it stutters. Any help on this would be great. Thanks. Oh and I'm running the t-25, no boost controller, and running around 14 psi with spikes to 16...not sure if that makes any diferance with the fluttering problem or not. Peace.

My experience with the Greddy has been a very similar one. The fluttering is going to happen regardless with the Greddy. It's just a fact of life. The fluttering in my car was causing the TPS to trip a CEL. After loosening and tightening the spring, what finally fixed my problem was pressurizing the lower nipple. Some say it will leak if you do that, but my BOV opens so much easier and TPS CEL free. Might want to give it a shot just in case. If you have a boost controller installed, usually you cap the nipple on the compressor housing. I removed my cap and got 1/8th" vac line hooked up to it and the lower nipple on the Greddy... The flutter is about 95% gone..
 
Actually someone posted a couple days ago about that specific bov and they were telling the thread that you would actually use both of the nipples when installing that bov.

I dont remember which thread it was but ill try to look and see if i can find it.
 
Well I tried connecting the lower nipple. Boost spiked to 20psi and it still had surge. So I just I unhooked it, and decided to just live with it. Right now I have the small spring out, and it's set at about 1 turn from full soft. Seems to work ok, almost no surge at all.
 
Originally posted by scorpion
Well I tried connecting the lower nipple. Boost spiked to 20psi and it still had surge. So I just I unhooked it, and decided to just live with it. Right now I have the small spring out, and it's set at about 1 turn from full soft. Seems to work ok, almost no surge at all.


Do you have a MBC?
 
Alright in the mean time I found this intersting. When I have the lower nipple disconnected, and the small spring removed, I leak at idle. When I give it some gas, it snaps shut until I remove the throttle, at which point it blows open. So this makes me think that when the throttle plate is shut, the top nipple is feed with vacuume, when the throtte is opened it is feed with pressure, causing it to shut and not leak. Now after looking at the bov, the top nipple would counter-act the top nipple under boost. Does this make sence to anyone else or am I smoking crack again. At any case the flutter is gone and seems to be working great. Thanks guys.
 
Originally posted by scorpion
Alright in the mean time I found this intersting. When I have the lower nipple disconnected, and the small spring removed, I leak at idle. When I give it some gas, it snaps shut until I remove the throttle, at which point it blows open. So this makes me think that when the throttle plate is shut, the top nipple is feed with vacuume, when the throtte is opened it is feed with pressure, causing it to shut and not leak. Now after looking at the bov, the top nipple would counter-act the top nipple under boost. Does this make sence to anyone else or am I smoking crack again. At any case the flutter is gone and seems to be working great. Thanks guys.

Put both springs in.. That's what I have with about 7-8 threads showing...
 
Originally posted by scorpion
Alright in the mean time I found this intersting. When I have the lower nipple disconnected, and the small spring removed, I leak at idle. When I give it some gas, it snaps shut until I remove the throttle, at which point it blows open. So this makes me think that when the throttle plate is shut, the top nipple is feed with vacuume, when the throtte is opened it is feed with pressure, causing it to shut and not leak. Now after looking at the bov, the top nipple would counter-act the top nipple under boost. Does this make sence to anyone else or am I smoking crack again. At any case the flutter is gone and seems to be working great. Thanks guys.

well ya.. whenever so much vacum is present on the top nipple (depending on how tight the spring is) the BOV is unseated.. this is the whole point of the BOV.. my BOV is slightly open at idle too, as it is supposed to be.. the 1g BOV opens at 19mercury which is just about what u pull at idle, so i set my greddy to open the same.
 
Originally posted by RuBiCaNT5X


Put both springs in.. That's what I have with about 7-8 threads showing...

Alright, what would I gain from doing this? When I have both springs in, I get mad compressor surge at low boost. This is my daily driver and I'm not florring it from stop light to stop light. The only reason I could see needing both springs is to vent to the atmosphere, so there's no leaking at idle. Since I'm recirculating the bov I have no need for it to be that hard.
 
Originally posted by scorpion


Alright, what would I gain from doing this? When I have both springs in, I get mad compressor surge at low boost. This is my daily driver and I'm not florring it from stop light to stop light. The only reason I could see needing both springs is to vent to the atmosphere, so there's no leaking at idle. Since I'm recirculating the bov I have no need for it to be that hard.

I'm just saying that is what my setup is and I have little to no compressor surge.... Greddy doesn't recommend taking both springs out, but they don't recommend connecting that nipple either so I guess if it's working for you, go with it.
 
Originally posted by RuBiCaNT5X


I'm just saying that is what my setup is and I have little to no compressor surge.... Greddy doesn't recommend taking both springs out, but they don't recommend connecting that nipple either so I guess if it's working for you, go with it.

Both springs? I hope you ment to say one spring. Anyway, Thanks for the input, I just hate hearing the sound of my turbo getting f#$%ed up, so it looks like I'm going to run with what I have. Peace
 
Originally posted by scorpion


Both springs? I hope you ment to say one spring. Anyway, Thanks for the input, I just hate hearing the sound of my turbo getting f#$%ed up, so it looks like I'm going to run with what I have. Peace

i was told from greddy not to even take the BOV apart let alone take springs out
 
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