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valve seals/valves

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TurboSpoolinIns

20+ Year Contributor
504
0
May 15, 2002
The South,
i have recently heard that I could possibly regain some of my compression through replacing my valves and basically redo-ing my valve seals because i'm burning oil at idle... WHO sells Stainless Steel valves cheap other than RRE? and does anyone know approx how long it took them to do their valves/seals/retainers... head job?:confused:
 
First if your losing compression you should do a leak-down test to see where your losing compression. If your putting new valves in thats something you cant do by yourself, the new valves and seats must be cut and lapped. If you dont then your going to lose more compression than you are now, let a good machine shop do it. You can replace the valvestem seals though if they are leaking, but if the valves arent seating then the machine shop is going to replace those anyways.
 
Do you have to remove the engine to do valves or just the head, and if your piston rings are fried, do you have to pull the engine? thanks.
 
Where is the cheapest place anyone has seen valves? Either stock or stock sized stainless? I need to find some asap!
 
Do you have to remove the engine to do valves or just the head, and if your piston rings are fried, do you have to pull the engine? thanks.
To do the machine work necessary on the head, you'll want to remove the head. The engine can stay right where it's at.
 
Originally posted by Laguna739
Do you have to remove the engine to do valves or just the head, and if your piston rings are fried, do you have to pull the engine? thanks.
I just replaced my valve seals in my 93Tsi AWD w/ 143,000 miles. The car would smoke/burn oil, mainly on cold starts. I had a set of valve seals, and i started my timing belt/waterpump job this weekend, so i replaced the valve seals while the timing belt was off. Took about 3hours once the belt was off. You have to first remove the timing belt from the camshafts(you have to take off your drive belts and timing covers etc.) removed the valve cover, removed the camshaft caps, removed the roller rockers, removed the cam angle sensor, removed the camshafts and camgears, removed the spark plug for the cylender that i was working on, inserted a speacial air hose to pump air into the cylinder to apply air pressure on the bottom of the valve, Used a Snap-On valve spring compressor ($200) to compress the valvesprings, get the keepers out, remove the srping and retainer, remove old valveseals, and then repeat. Kind of a pain, but once i put my timing belt back on, we'll see if my smoke machine stops spitting mobile one out the tailpipe.
Travis
 
hey i just built my head for my car. took about 3 times of goin over my friends house and about 2 hours each time. thats counting taking it apart-porting it- valve job -and re assembeling it. the keepers are kinda a pain but easy when you get yust to it. WATCH OUT for the two valves on the intake in the middle they are a PAIN IN THE A@# to get the keepers back in if doing the VFAQ trick with the O2 sensor socket
 
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