1G BOV MOD = Done

[Todd95TSi]

Just finished the mod of a 1G BOV, I felt I should share some before/after pics.

Before:

 

[Todd95TSi]

...

 

[Todd95TSi]

After:

 

[Captain Morgan]

did that get rid of the damn high pitched whine it gives off after you let off the throttle going about 5mph?

 

[greyforestgst]

what does it do?

id like to find a real simple way to make mine a bit louder without having to weld / pay money

 

[Todd95TSi]

It stops the leak that occurs around 17psi. I believe it would also make it louder, but I'm not exactly sure....

I have not installed it yet, I'm waiting for my UICP to come. The directions to do it can be found here:
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html

It's easier than it looks to do, and if you have the right tools it should only cost about $2.50

 

[DSMJim]

What blows me away is you do a mod to your blow off valve to make it hold more boost so your car goes faster. Thats great.

Then you get a reply like "did it make it louder?" blah blah..

NO! He made it so it works better. WHO CARES IF IT'S LOUDER. You know the F&F2 is coming out soon, im sure the BOV's are louder there...

 

[Gooberlog]

I have a UICP for my 90 AWD that has a flange welded on it for only the BLITZ SS BOV, but the one on my friends WRX isn't even as loud as an HKS SSQ or a stock 1G venting to the atmosphere. I heard the Blitz was suposed to be loud???? I'm growing more towards the HKS SSQ, but i fell in love with the sound of the 1G venting on my TSi fwd before i took it apart, but it idled like crap.

 

[greyforestgst]

Originally posted by DSMJim
Then you get a reply like "did it make it louder?" blah blah..

NO! He made it so it works better. WHO CARES IF IT'S LOUDER. You know the F&F2 is coming out soon, im sure the BOV's are louder there...

i do.
call me a ricer; my 1g bov is completely silent. looked at first like it was just a small line where air was vented to the atmosphere, but i see its a poor mans dual chamber now of sorts that the link explained it. it will end up holding much more boost, but it still leaks at idle, and unfortunately looks as though it wont bleed out pressure as quickly.
cool little mod though. funny that we're getting mods for our own cars from other enthusiast groups

by the way, my gst is faster than your awd, you contributed absolutely nothing to this thread, and i didnt ask for your opinion, so kindly shut the fuck up.

 

[RipperXX]

it may be faster top end but what about 1/4 mile eh?

 

[Todd95TSi]

Hey hey guys cool it.
It will hold boost great, I went to try it out with it connected to the turbo outlet nipple and whoosh!!! maxed my boost gauge out! i quickly let off...... so i disconnected it for (what the link calls) slow release mode, and it still works great. As for the sound it is pretty F'n loud. It kinda makes a "witchaaaa" sound like a whip.

I also do like the sound of a bov, however only second to performance, but if I can have both in one mod.....KICK A$$!!!

 

[FourG63 97GST]

hmm, interesting mod.
Ill look into it

 

[LandoAWD]

Have you experienced the compressor surge part of the mod yet? You just might....try taking it up to 10psi in 4th or 5th and back of throttle fairly slowly....I kinda regret the mod, though it does hold 20psi no problem, and sounds like a whip.

 

[-=TWITCH=-]

Originally posted by RipperXX
it may be faster top end but what about 1/4 mile eh?

greyforestgst is faster in the 1/4

 

[FourG63 97GST]

and top end

 

[DSMJim]

. his car is faster than last years setup yes. My car has a T3/t4 50trim on a turbonetics manifold, Spearco 2-216 fmic, NX, Tial 35mil, MSD DIS2, 660cc safc and walbro 255 running 20psi on pump, not to mention all kinds of other crap like a full suspension, 3 inch dp cat and exhaust, electronic boost controller, welded center diff, ACT clutch etc etc etc... On top of all that, I put on a CF hood, pulled my re-bars, scraped off all the rubber crap under the carpet and launched just about every part of the car that adds weight. About 220lbs in total and I'm not done yet. Let me know when your ready... I should be able to beat my bone stock time of 14.6 this year...

My car has not been to the track yet, nor is it really tuned to what I would call race ready so I'm not even going to guess at what it will run which is why it still says 14.6 in my Bio. That is technically the fastest my car has been clocked at. This is turning into a pissing contest which I generally hate to partake in however in this case I thought I would just give a quick update as to the current state my car is in right now... Relax dude, we don't need to hate over the internet.

Besides im not hating on you directly just guys who only care about noise from the BOV. Just today a guy came into the shop and asked me if I could hook up a BOV on his naturally aspriated Cavalier 2.2L. That's what kills me.

 

[blackawdturbo]

Originally posted by Todd95TSi
Hey hey guys cool it.
It will hold boost great, I went to try it out with it connected to the turbo outlet nipple and whoosh!!! maxed my boost gauge out! i quickly let off...... so i disconnected it for (what the link calls) slow release mode, and it still works great. As for the sound it is pretty F'n loud. It kinda makes a "witchaaaa" sound like a whip.

I also do like the sound of a bov, however only second to performance, but if I can have both in one mod.....KICK A$$!!!

That "witchaaaa" sound you love is nasty compressor surge because the valve now cannot open fast enough to release the backpressure. Not recommended for anything other than the track, IMO.

 

[pneumo]

Maybe you guys didn't know about the "crushed BOV" mod? It holds up to about 22 psi, stops flutter at slow speeds, and still releases quickly so there's no surge.

 

[98TsiAWD]

Originally posted by Captain Morgan
did that get rid of the damn high pitched whine it gives off after you let off the throttle going about 5mph?

Yes this mod gets rid of that annoying high pitched whistle. Have you looked at the bottom side of your BOV, notice a little tiny hole? That is what makes the whistle noise, air passing over that little hole. With this mod you plug that hole.

 

[mrmadmax]

Originally posted by blackawdturbo



That "witchaaaa" sound you love is nasty compressor surge because the valve now cannot open fast enough to release the backpressure. Not recommended for anything other than the track, IMO.

So why can't we just connect the external boost reference port (the one you just installed at the bov) to the ported vacuum port on the throttle body? Then, closing the throttle will essentially route the boost reference port to the UICP as it was stock--No more compressor surge.

I need to try this one...

 

[blackawdturbo]

Originally posted by mrmadmax


So why can't we just connect the external boost reference port (the one you just installed at the bov) to the ported vacuum port on the throttle body? Then, closing the throttle will essentially route the boost reference port to the UICP as it was stock--No more compressor surge.

I need to try this one...

You certainly don't want a vacuum source at the flange port or compressor surge will be much worse.

There are only two ways to run this setup without major modifications, i.e. solenoids, etc.

1. Run a boost source from the throttle body (P port, compressor housing barb, etc) to the lower flange barb. This gives you quick release and little to no surge with the downside being a BOV that leaks a little sooner, since pressure under the flange will cause it to lift.

2. Vent the lower barb to the atmosphere allowing the spring and boost (when WOT) to clamp the BOV tight with no opposing force from the underside flange. You loose the quick release, gain that "Witchaaa" sound=BAD but keep the BOV nearly leak free to 30 psi.


Hope this helps

 

[Bohrn]

you go Jim

 

[mrmadmax]

Originally posted by blackawdturbo



You certainly don't want a vacuum source at the flange port or compressor surge will be much worse.

There are only two ways to run this setup without major modifications, i.e. solenoids, etc.

1. Run a boost source from the throttle body (P port, compressor housing barb, etc) to the lower flange barb. This gives you quick release and little to no surge with the downside being a BOV that leaks a little sooner, since pressure under the flange will cause it to lift.

2. Vent the lower barb to the atmosphere allowing the spring and boost (when WOT) to clamp the BOV tight with no opposing force from the underside flange. You loose the quick release, gain that "Witchaaa" sound=BAD but keep the BOV nearly leak free to 30 psi.


Hope this helps

HaHa... We are saying the same thing. The P-port IS ported vacuum. It's actually manifold pressure when the throttle is barely open, then it has the same pressure as the inlet to the t-body when the throttle is closed or more than partly open.

I just realized, though, that this won't help. If you route to the P port, you might as well leave it stock, because the P port sees boost just the same as the UICP, so the bov will still leak. I think the idea is to get atmospheric pressure at the boost reference port during boost, then UICP pressure during closed throttle.

I think we are stuck with the solenoids if we want to prevent the surge.

 

[blackawdturbo]

Originally posted by mrmadmax


HaHa... We are saying the same thing.

I think we are stuck with the solenoids if we want to prevent the surge.

I agree. Maybe something like this??

http://pages.cthome.net/gus/gus.html