Coolant Issue

[andyb2637]

Hello all!
Let me get right into whats going on. The main issue is that coolant is not flowing through my head. I noticed this when I first started my car and after a good 30 Min the top tof the radiator was steaming!! Yes steaming because coolant wasn't flowing. Top hose is extremely hot but the bottom hose is cool as a cucumber WTF. I searched the threads for my issue but there seems not to be anywhere and when I did find something similar it was a 2G .

I have a theory though, I didnt have my head resourfaced after I took it off to get rebuilt . In all fairness though he told me it didn't need it. I feel that this not being resurfaced is my problem here though. I did take the hose and run water through my car just to make sure there wasn't anything blocked. It flowed like Niagara falls which made me even more frustrated. I have come down to last answer that my head must be warped. I have a new water pump with an OEM thermostat also. I just wanted someone else to take a look at my situation before I begin the tear down. Any ideas guys??

 

[talon2gbuyer]

it sounds like your thermostat may either be defective or stuck in the closed position, not allowing coolant to flow through it and thus into your head and then circulate through the lower cooling hose. but that is only a possibility. BogusSVO would most likely be the guy you want to talk to about the head specifications, as he does that for a living

 

[andyb2637]

Alright guys, I started the car without the thermostat and its pasing coolant through the block perfectly. I still have a leak though so I'm thinking im going to have to change the HG no matter what I do. Is there any chance it will seal up by itself or not?

 

[andyb2637]

Oh and I sent BogusSVO a message n hopefully I'll hear something good from him. Thanks for the tip talon

 

[talon2gbuyer]

Well the composite hg have a better ability to fill in imperfections as long as they are not huge. You'd still be better off being safe than sorry and take a flat ruler, a set of plastic feeler gauges and checking for warpage. Just to be sure

 

[NWHTanK]

A cooling system pressure tester might help. Check the plugs for fouling .

 

[andyb2637]

@TALON2GBUYER
Yea I'm deffinetly going to use the composite HG again since it is OEM and as you said will fill any imperfections.

@NWHTanK
A cooling pressure test would be clutch! Unfortunatly I cant find any of those to even rent around here! Online there alot of money so I cant go that route. Bummer....

I'm going to check the plugs and take a peek at the piston tops with a light to check if I cant see any residue from coolant. I'll post a pic if I find anything conclusive.

Quick question, you guys think it would be kosher if I reused my HG? Its only been on the car and started. Drove it up and down the street FELT SO GOOD! (other then the hg leak)

 

[talon2gbuyer]

I wouldn't reuse it.

 

[BogusSVO]

Has the head been surfaced before? if yes, How was it surfaced?

A head gasket will not "Just seal up" if there is an issue with it.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

 

[andyb2637]

@BugusSVO
No the head has never been resurfaced. Yea the thought of it sealing itself was more of a dream answer then a reality .
Just finished reading all of those! Excellent Info! Plus I read the other ones about enlarging the oil port hole where the head stud goes through! I will definitely have to through that mod on and the oil valley port that stops the lifter tick completely.
Will I have to change the timing because of the shave or since it's never had it done will I be all set?

@Talon
Yea I'm just going to spend the dough and grab a new one OEM one on payday.

I checked all my plugs also and looked into the chamber with a light and saw there was liquid on top of the pistons 1 and 4, but 2&3 are dry on top. The plugs are alittle fouled up but that's to be expected I guess since its leaking. Just as its getting to 40* outside .

 

[BogusSVO]

I doubt you will have to surface the head enough for it to effect the mech. timing set of the engine.

 

[talon2gbuyer]

The liquid on the piston could be fuel, but could also be condensation if you left the injectors or plugs out for a few nights. Not sure how condensation can be removed safely, or if the engine will just burn it off during a normal running?

 

[andyb2637]

The liquid on the piston could be fuel, but could also be condensation if you left the injectors or plugs out for a few nights. Not sure how condensation can be removed safely, or if the engine will just burn it off during a normal running?

Well considering 2 of the piston tops are dry I rulled that out. I'll find out soon enough when I take the head off.

 

[cmfd]

id try a cylinder leak downt test before removing the head. see if it is your headgasket before you go through all the work.

 

[andyb2637]

id try a cylinder leak downt test before removing the head. see if it is your headgasket before you go through all the work.

Thats a good idead but doubt that I can find someone around here that will let me use one. I'm going to buy one if I find one for a good deal. Money's tight cause im still in college. But wrenchin on dsm's is free .

An update:
I pulled the exhaust manifold and I can see black gunk all over cylinder 4.(One thing I must add is that before when I started the car the actual first time I re-tourqued the head studs. For some reason that HS all the way by cylinder 4 at the end, front row, had alittle more to go when the other ones were snug.) All the other exhaust ports are dry. Could this be a faulty valve seal by the way it looks? The machinist put all new valves seals all around though.
Also my timing belt has a weird wear mark. You guys ever seen anything like this?

 

[BogusSVO]

Could be a bad seal, or a worn guide, or a improperly replaced guide.

The make on the T-belt if from having a long oil pan bolt in the wrong hole.

 

[andyb2637]

Could be a bad seal, or a worn guide, or a improperly replaced guide.

The make on the T-belt if from having a long oil pan bolt in the wrong hole.

Dam I feel like a tard!

As for the head the guy said he stands by his work so lets hope he infact does.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Dam I feel like a tard!

As for the head the guy said he stands by his work so lets hope he infact does.

He flippin better stand by his work..Its called being responsible..Do you see any of our freelancers or vendors, not warrenty-ing stuff..No*

 

[BogusSVO]

When the guides are changed, some gaulling of the alum head casting will stick to the cast iron guide, or if the guides have been chanced a time or two, the guide bores will become loose, this is when oversized guides are used.

For lack of a better term, the machinist has to have a "feel" for the press fit when installing the new guides, or use a hi-temp sealent. so oil will not be sucked by the OD of the guide.

 

[andyb2637]

Good news guys. The machinist is def backing his work .
I ordered all the new parts and I could not believe extreme PSI got the order out that day! These guys are def going to get a great vendor review from me!

After I get all the timing belt tools I'll tear the car down some more and let you guys know how everything else looks.

 

[andyb2637]

I took it to the machinist yesterday and he thinks its a bad valve guide. He's going to take it back apart and redue it and see if he can find if that was 100% the reason. The guy seems very competent and has a great rep for building heads.
I told him I wanted the head to be resurfaced but he said it was flat. He took the piece of steal and put it on the head with a feeler gauge like the pic said to do. It was about as flat as it can get he told me. I said just to make sure take a little off the top and double check if theres anything thats slightly warped.

One thing he said made some sense, in this pic you'll see the piston #4 has a pool of oil in it!! Thats what I thought was collant before... The block was built by SBR and he said they could have accidentally aligned the oil ring with the compression ring gap and that can cause oil to come out on top of the piston. He told me I should pop that piston out to double check that the gaps were not lined up with each other. Any chance you guys can confirm this?

One thing I'm worried about is actually taking the piston out... I bought it just so I wouldn't have to mess with the bottom end....

 

[BogusSVO]

I doubt the gaps are lined up, the rings will move around the pistons some untill they take a seat.

But if you want to check, you can try this.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/450572-how-check-pinched-bad-rings.html#post153127146

 

[andyb2637]

I doubt the gaps are lined up, the rings will move around the pistons some untill they take a seat.

But if you want to check, you can try this.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/450572-how-check-pinched-bad-rings.html#post153127146

Thanks man!

 

[BogusSVO]

Here... You may want to book mark this page.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...ussvo-how-links-other-info.html#post153125637

 

[andyb2637]

Here... You may want to book mark this page.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...ussvo-how-links-other-info.html#post153125637

I just emailed this to the guy doing my head after i book marked it and he was impressed how thoroughly you went into detail!

I think my head's going to be perfect this time
Update:
Just talked to him and he said he'll do both mods for free, KickA$$!