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2G 4 quarts of oil came/busted out while driving

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Foreverthuggin0417

Banned Member
82
0
Aug 1, 2012
Nowhere, California
Hey. I hope this is the right spot for this thread. I recently got my head rebuilt and put it back on Saturday. It was running fine but didn't feel like it was breathing right. My BOV isn't loud anymore and yesterday I was driving back from the hospital going from 70-140 at times. It was about a ten mile drive and when I got off the exit to my spot (bout half mile from the house) my oil pressure dropped all the way. When I got home and parked there was a long line behind me. A trail of oil. And it was coming out fast. All over the drivers side. The bottom of the engine area or filter. All the oil came out in the matter of two minutes. So I couldn't pin point. Anyone know what maybe had happened?
 
Check the oil filter, it sounds like the oil filter stud backed out cause the filter to come loose.
 
and how bout cleaning the oil off with brake clean and puttin oil back in the motor. Then start it to see where it's coming from. If you don't feel comfortable running the motor then have some one crank it over while you look for leaks.
 
hopefully the motor isint trashed by now. It doesnt take long with no oil to kill a few bearings. When that oil pressure gauge hit 0 pull the key immediately.
 
Hey. I hope this is the right spot for this thread. I recently got my head rebuilt and put it back on Saturday. It was running fine but didn't feel like it was breathing right. My BOV isn't loud anymore and yesterday I was driving back from the hospital going from 70-140 at times. It was about a ten mile drive and when I got off the exit to my spot (bout half mile from the house) my oil pressure dropped all the way. When I got home and parked there was a long line behind me. A trail of oil. And it was coming out fast. All over the drivers side. The bottom of the engine area or filter. All the oil came out in the matter of two minutes. So I couldn't pin point. Anyone know what maybe had happened?

So the car didnt feel right so you decided beating on it is the way to treat it? ...C'mon man use some common sense..

You're engine is likely trashed FWIW...... No oil will kill bearings/rods/oil pump/cams/head etc... It takes SECONDS for damage to occur...may as well start searching the classifieds.
 
Technoklips: I didn't check any of those places. It was al,out mid night so it was dark out. I will definetly try to check it out. The oil pressure was at zero when I got off the exit. But when I got home it was still coming out all over the street when I turned the car off.

Bryanwheat: I will make sure to check that out as well. Thank you for the suggestion/advice. You think I might have messed anything up? Top of engine is two days re built.

Agent Ezzard: will also do that as well if I don't find out we're its leaking from with the above suggests given. Thank You for the advice.

Dacowgod: I was not beating on it. If you ever driven highway 4 from Martinez ca, which you haven't, then you would know on all the down hills it's easy to pick up high speed while easily accelerating. When I looked at the mph it was at 140 and I put it in neutral and began to slow down. Right when I got off the highway, which was about 2-4 miles after going that fast, the oil gauge (stock) went strait down and I drove for no more than a 1/4 mile to my house and parked. The car didn't get hot or drove rough or different. It was still running right, but the oil was just coming out really fast. If there's no advice to be given I suggest you keep your comments to yourself. Thank you. I don't know why try to talk s*** to someone for messing up and not giving constructive criticism? Don't post s*** if it won't help out.
 
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you aren't going to drift to 140 MPH in 5th gear going down a hill sorry ... You don't "cruise" to 140 in a DSM on ANY highway.. I have been on plenty of highways in California.. Even coming off the Grapevine on those long ass down hill straights going down towards L.A. You would have to be hitting the gas to get it to 140 MPH ....

Regardless... The advice was start checking the classifieds for a new engine... because its highly likely your engine is now toast... Sorry its not what you want to hear.. but it is obvious you haven't ever been inside of an engine nor seen the internals of a DSM engine that was ran out of oil.... Your rods are likely purple..your bearings are likely toast, and the more you start it up the more likely its going to be that it isn't even going to be salvagable...

The best thing you can do now is drop the pan and inspect the bearings... At VERY LEAST cut the filter open and look for bearing material..but since it all happened so fast its likely not going to show you the whole story w/o driving it 25-50 miles more and cutting it open...

Its VERY unlikely your engine is okay...if it is..you're one lucky person.. but I HIGHLY doubt it..
 
...yesterday I was driving back from the hospital going from 70-140 at times.

140 mph on a highway? Seriously?

If there's no advice to be given I suggest you keep your comments to yourself. Thank you. I don't know why try to talk s*** to someone for messing up and not giving constructive criticism? Don't post s*** if it won't help out.

I didn't see dacowgod talking s*** at all. If anything, he stated the obvious and told you exactly what you are likely to find.

FWIW- Ricky has probably forgotten more about DSMs than the vast majority of people on this site will ever learn. It would be wise to listen to any advice he is willing to share. ;)
 
Calan: I haven't driven my car since then but after it happened it still was running ok. If the internals were messed up do you think I would be able to tell during that short period of time I was parking the car?
 
If the internals were messed up do you think I would be able to tell during that short period of time I was parking the car?

Maybe, maybe not.

The best thing to do would be to drop the pan as Ricky mentioned and inspect the bearings/journals for any heat scoring, and cut the filter open.

If the engine continued to run for even a few seconds after losing 4 quarts of oil, I would expect at least some damage to the bearings... even though it may not be apparent yet.
 
I'm going to take a guess at something to do with balance shaft. I had mine mess up on the highway, low oil pressure, and oil pouring out of unknown location on engine. Engine was deff dead, so I drove it home slow and finally knocked as soon as I got in the drive way. Pulled the pan, found a dug in balance shaft, rod play on cyl.3.
 
I think this why some people would not respond to this type of post I am suprised Ricky took the time to try and help you he is is well known guy and only gives good advice
 
I went under the hood today and I went to check the oil filter and it was really loose. I took it off and the adapter that it is connected to is loose as well. I could actually move it around, like almost pull it off. So now I know where the oil came out of but don't know why and don't know the damage caused.

Ricky: my apologies. I took it all wrong and was really not in a good mood due to all the stuff I was already getting from people at my house. I should've further tried to see what you were suggesting. I took your advice as well and got a back up engine waiting for me just in case. Any and all other info would be much appreciated.

G4ebguy90: what about the balance shaft was wrong? I know where the oil came from, so do you still think those things that happened to you could possibly happen to me.

Let me try to better explain. After the oil light came on I was about a half mile from the house. The car didn't die nor did it try to. It didn't start running funny and wasn't giving signs of a problem. It he car didn't get hot. I parked and popped the hood. There was no oil anywhere on the head or block. There was no smoke coming from the engine. Just the bottom where the oil was on hot parts of car. It got blown on there from the wind while driving. I looked at it today and there was even oil on my back bumper. All along the driver side and on both tires on that side. The oil filter was really loose as well as the adapter. That's all I got so far.

Here is a couple pix. The adapter and the oil after I parked.
 

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I went under the hood today and I went to check the oil filter and it was really loose. I took it off and the adapter that it is connected to is loose as well. I could actually move it around, like almost pull it off. So now I know where the oil came out of but don't know why and don't know the damage caused.

Ricky: my apologies. I took it all wrong and was really not in a good mood due to all the stuff I was already getting from people at my house. I should've further tried to see what you were suggesting. I took your advice as well and got a back up engine waiting for me just in case. Any and all other info would be much appreciated.

G4ebguy90: what about the balance shaft was wrong? I know where the oil came from, so do you still think those things that happened to you could possibly happen to me.

Let me try to better explain. After the oil light came on I was about a half mile from the house. The car didn't die nor did it try to. It didn't start running funny and wasn't giving signs of a problem. It he car didn't get hot. I parked and popped the hood. There was no oil anywhere on the head or block. There was no smoke coming from the engine. Just the bottom where the oil was on hot parts of car. It got blown on there from the wind while driving. I looked at it today and there was even oil on my back bumper. All along the driver side and on both tires on that side. The oil filter was really loose as well as the adapter. That's all I got so far.

Here is a couple pix. The adapter and the oil after I parked.


This is exactly what i suspected. The stud that the filter attaches to threads into the oil filter housing. It holds the oil cooler to the filter housing. It needs to be properly torqued with red thread lock on it. It is real common for those to back out, when they do the filter won't stay tight and you will loose all your oil real quick. As others have said, pull the pan and check for damage. You might not have anything that is badly damaged yet, but the bearings are likely scuffed from contact with the crank.
 
FWIW.. Early this season I had an improperly mounted oil cooler smack a sharp incline while doing some initial break-in of a new motor, and I lost all 5 quarts within a blink of an eye. By the time I looked over and saw my oil pressure gauge read zero at a stop light it was to late. The next day I returned to where the mishap had taken place and measured the distance between impact and when I shut it off. It was about 3/4 of a mile if that. In that distance my #4 main bearing froze to the crank, my #3 main bearing was badly worn, my #4 rod bearing spun, and my thrust tore itself up that it looked like swiss cheese. I quickly was humbled to the fact that oil pressure is extremely important, and losing it even for 10 seconds will destroy a motor. I had to rebuild my entire bottom end again with new rods, crank, bearings, rings, machine work, ect.. and it was a costly error. Not to mention the amount of material that circulates through the motor is very damaging to all the other parts including the cams, turbo, lifters, oil pump, ect..

Pull the pan man and pop at least your number 3 & 4 caps and check for damage. Those loose oil first and will show the most damage.

And seriously man..SLOW THE #### DOWN!! If you truly were going 140mph and not 140khm, then you were pushing the hell out of that car. Take that shit to the track.
 
Bryanwheat: yup, that's what was wrong. After we tightened it I put a new filter on and put oil and it ran fine. It's my only car right now so I had to drive to school today. 40mile round trip. It drove fine on the way here. Do you think I would be able to tell if something is wrong just from driving it. I haven't gotten around to checking the pan. I'm staying low on rpms shifting between 2-3. As well as staying out of boost as best I can. When I got on the freeway it said 15lbs but didn't feel like that at all. Do you think It could be damaged? The day I put my head back on I put gas and on the drive home my CEL came on. Would a damaged turbo do that? All plugs, wires, and tubes were plugged back in so I don't know what it could be.

Little-razcal: thanks for the story it was very similar to mine. After it happened could you tell that something was wrong or did you have to check, because after I fixed it i drove it and all seems to be fine. Would I be able to tell from the performance of the car or would I actually have to look into it?
 
I know a guy who's stud backed out in '03 and he continued driving after all the oil poured on to the highway. Anyhow the car was for sale and he had a buyer coming the next day. The lack of oil caused the engine to completely seize. The people came the following day and he told them it just wouldn't start, they tried using a jumper pack, etc to get the thing started but the enigne was seized, so their efforts were futile. They had the car hauled back to Maryand where their mechanic tore it apart to find a new filter, 5 qts of fresh oil and a locked up motor. Needless to say it eneded in a lawsuit. Every oil change I make it a point to check the stud, as that's one thing you never want coming loose. Thought i'd share that story,
 
My advise for anyone reading this is to shut off the engine (without locking the steering) instantly, anytime the oil pressure drops to zero!

I can't fathom the thought process everytime I read, "My oil gauge dropped to zero and I was leaving a trail of oil... then later when I pulled in my driveway..." WTF!

By the way, that just happens on these engines. On my last oil change (just before the shootout), I noticed my stud backing out.
 
Bryanwheat: yup, that's what was wrong. After we tightened it I put a new filter on and put oil and it ran fine. It's my only car right now so I had to drive to school today. 40mile round trip. It drove fine on the way here. Do you think I would be able to tell if something is wrong just from driving it. I haven't gotten around to checking the pan. I'm staying low on rpms shifting between 2-3. As well as staying out of boost as best I can. When I got on the freeway it said 15lbs but didn't feel like that at all. Do you think It could be damaged? The day I put my head back on I put gas and on the drive home my CEL came on. Would a damaged turbo do that? All plugs, wires, and tubes were plugged back in so I don't know what it could be.

Little-razcal: thanks for the story it was very similar to mine. After it happened could you tell that something was wrong or did you have to check, because after I fixed it i drove it and all seems to be fine. Would I be able to tell from the performance of the car or would I actually have to look into it?

Loss of power is a good sign that something is damaged. I'd sell it. Due to the fact that you don't seem anxious to actually do the work in order to know what is damaged. People drive cars that are broken all the time. Doesn't mean nothing is wrong.
 
Reclipsergst: I'm not going to sell it I'm going to stick with it and fix the problems that come across my path to achieve my goals set out. I went and got a diagnostics test and the code I got back was p0120 and I fixed that. No other codes came on to tell me I damaged anything else. I would hope there would be a code that would pop up if I damaged any internals. If know if there isn't I would highly appreciate it if you could inform me. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
No, there is no code that will pop up if your internals are damaged. It doesn't work like that. The only way to tell is to drop the pan and check out the bearings.


YOU will not get a code but you already got a big warning sign, loosing all your oil and so forth, I doubt you did not suffer any damage however slight at this time, the least you could do is drop the pan, which apparently dont want to do and you are still driving the car.
You might get away with changing your rod bearings, after cleaning all the lines as much as possible, drop the pan and get opinions on how much damaged could have been done.
You asked and people here have told you the CODE, drop the pan and check.
 
I would hope there would be a code that would pop up if I damaged any internals. If know if there isn't I would highly appreciate it if you could inform me. Thanks for the suggestion.

Sadly there aren't any codes for internal damage to a motor. I have spun rods in several different makes and models, DSM's and others included and never have i gotten codes, it just simply doesn't work like that.

I had one car, i tanked my oil pan on a pot hole and had a pinhole in it. It took two blocks for it to develop rod knock. so 1/4 mile is more then enough to cause damage.

If you aren't sure what to check for, after you do the work you know how to do, have it towed to a shop, don't drive it, and have them check for any signs of internal damage from the oil loss.

Also, 140MPH is 1. Stupid anywhere other then a track 2. not achievable cruising downhill or otherwise without your pedal being against the floor, and if you call that cruising you shouldn't be in a dsm capable of those speeds because you are going to kill someone.

I hope your motor is okay, but chances are that it isn't, so prepare for that possibility, and start researching a little more because it sounds like you don't know too much about cars yet, and not being knowledgeable about your car can have serious repercussions.
 
This happened to my sisters 2010 mazda. Jiffy lube used the wrong filter which fell off completely and drained all of the oil out. The motor lasted another year before tearing up. Oil filter was never found so not sure how long it was driven without oil.
 
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