660s w/ T-25

[droptopgst]

I am going to take off my 18g and send it back to have a bigger wastegate hole and flapper put on, hopeing to eliminater this uncontrolable boost creep problem. Since I need a car for the week I need to put my stock turbo back on. What should I have my afc set around to start off? I know everycar is diff. but I dont want to screw up anything. This should be alright to do for a week right?
thanks

 

[GRNDSM]

Why does it matter? Street driving on 18G (if it is really what you have) is no different from street driving on T25. Now, if you are talking about running 17-21psi, that would be different, so just do not do it during that time.

Leon
RR

 

[CarTunr22]

At least you know you won't go lean. Just keep the boost down like what GRNDSM said.

 

[nine5raptor]

injectors are turbo independent. use your tuning device or just act like you are breaking in a new clutch and don't worry.

 

[droptopgst]

Thanks guys (and you too Leon if that is what you are, a guy)

 

[GRNDSM]

Is that supposed to be a dig for questioning if you had a real “18G”? Is your turbo a Greddy brand name? Most “18G’s” out there are much cheaper fake hybrids, which is funny because even a real “18G” is not a very good turbo…

Leon
RR

 

[dsmturboawd]

18g is a good turbo leon.

 

[droptopgst]

To each his own. You might not think the 18g is a good turbo just as I might not like the "custom paint job" on your car. So you don't get the 18g and I wont have a very ugly paint job... We will both be happy good day

 

[GRNDSM]

Not to turn this into turbo topic… But having an opinion on a turbo is a bit different from having an opinion regarding a paint job. One is supported by tangible facts the other one is in the eye of the beholder. My gripe is with 18G turbo is twofold:

1. The “real” 18G (which is made by Greddy and is VERY expensive) looks OK on paper, but simply has not delivered in the real life. Maybe it is because most people who know what they are doing, realize that you can get same or better turbo for less than half of “real” 18G’s price, so it is rarely used by people with true tuning skills, who knows. But you can not argue that track record of this turbo over the last 4 years is pretty bad. Its performance is closer to $600 16G than $1000 20G, but in ether case it is not worth ~$2000 kit price… Unless someone MUST have a Greddy nameplate… I believe that most people who do buy this grossly overpriced turbo are some kids who walked off the street into their neighborhood speed shop and never have a shot to get it right (staring with their turbo selection…).

2. Most of the “18G” turbos on the market are NOT REAL 18Gs… And for a good reason, why pay $2000 for something that can be closely imitated for under $1000? I just whish people would state that (when applicable), as it is NOT the same thing.


But in both cases, these turbos have not done very well on the strip… I do not even understand why they exist… Is the gap between 16G and 20G really that big? OK, might have been years ago, when your only choices were 16G and 20G, but why bother with it now? IMHO, it was a marketing job by Greddy that turned into a MINI hype, which should have died off by now.

BTW, Droptop, you never answered, which turbo do you have?

Leon
RR

 

[droptopgst]

I have the TDO5 18g Eliminator. It comes with the same 1 yr. 12,000 warrantee that every other turbo I looked at did therefore figured it cant be that bad.

I paid $1065 for the turbo, have it ported, 255 fuel pump, oil feed and return line, and all gaskets. (everything new)

I picked this turbo because

1. I have an A/T and that being slower than a 5 speed, I wanted a little something more so I can at least keep up with the 16g's on the 5 speeds.

2. I was told that the 20g had a lot of lag for a street car.

3. I did not have $2000 to spend on a turbo

4. I liked to have it bolt right on

5. I like to have something a little different then everyone else.

After talking to the techs I thought this would be an ok decision. I never claim to know everything, and just as everyone else I am learning as I go. I do know that every turbo on every car is different, I have read numerous post that show the t-28 1/4 time is usually in the low 14s. I dont want to spend that much $ and still be in the 14s. The 16g has good times on the 5 speed but not as great on the a/t. The next logical choice would have been 20g but after all I read I did not think that was a very good turbo for around town on a daily driver. Plus I was also told that I would need a I/C, 660s, and AFC right away which I did not have the $$ for now. Therefore that how my decision come about the 18g

 

[GRNDSM]

>I have the TDO5 18g Eliminator.

So my gut instinct was right… I do not know what you actually have, but you do not have a “Real” 18G.

Still think that my comment was out of line?

Leon
RR

 

[Goro21]

Originally posted by GRNDSM
>
Still think that my comment was out of line?

Leon
RR

does it matter? ... i wouldnt honestly run an 18g either, wether it be "real" or not. dont see why you need to get on his case because we think he may have made a bad turbo choice though. he gave us good reasons why he bought the 18g, and he doesnt seem to care if its "real" or not... not understanding why you do.

 

[GRNDSM]

Because there are as many different types fake 18G’s out there as there are different turbo shops...

Unless you buy a real Greddy 18G, it can be just about anything that a particular shop decides to call an “18G”. I have seen water cooled and try versions of “18G’s”, some with Garret intake housing, others with Mitsubishi.

To say that you have an “18G” is misleading unless you have the real thing.

Leon
RR

 

[kpt4321]

Originally posted by droptopgst


5. I like to have something a little different then everyone else.

Yeah, that's just NOT good logic. Certan kinds of turbos are popular for a reason, because they WORK. By chosing something that the experienced guys have not chosen for a REASON, you are putting yourself at a severe disadvantage.

I would be cusious to know what compressor wheel you actually have in your turbo.

In order to be "different", you could do all kinds of silly stuff, like tuning with O2's, or run 660's without an AFC(ish thing). It just wouldn't make sense, and that's why nobody does it.

 

[mike9146]

Just another example of the "Peanut Gallery" not listening to a veteran of the DSM community. Note to the know-it-all's: Leon has more experience with DSM's that most of you put together. He has gone faster on a 14b than most of you will *ever* go on *any* turbo. Take a look at the DSM fastest times page and tell me how may 18G's you see. Now, tell me (and Leon) why you are right and he is wrong.

 

[Goro21]

this is why forums are bogus.. the guy asks a simple question completely unrelated to an "18G" turbo.. and thats the only thing you talk about. I'll tell you why hes right, and you and your "buddy" leon are wrong.. its his friggen money, let him use-waste it as he sees fit.

 

[allwheelTSI]

Originally posted by droptopgst
I have the TDO5 18g Eliminator. It comes with the same 1 yr. 12,000 warrantee that every other turbo I looked at did therefore figured it cant be that bad.

I paid $1065 for the turbo, have it ported, 255 fuel pump, oil feed and return line, and all gaskets. (everything new)

I picked this turbo because

1. I have an A/T and that being slower than a 5 speed, I wanted a little something more so I can at least keep up with the 16g's on the 5 speeds.

2. I was told that the 20g had a lot of lag for a street car.

3. I did not have $2000 to spend on a turbo

4. I liked to have it bolt right on

5. I like to have something a little different then everyone else.

After talking to the techs I thought this would be an ok decision. I never claim to know everything, and just as everyone else I am learning as I go. I do know that every turbo on every car is different, I have read numerous post that show the t-28 1/4 time is usually in the low 14s. I dont want to spend that much $ and still be in the 14s. The 16g has good times on the 5 speed but not as great on the a/t. The next logical choice would have been 20g but after all I read I did not think that was a very good turbo for around town on a daily driver. Plus I was also told that I would need a I/C, 660s, and AFC right away which I did not have the $$ for now. Therefore that how my decision come about the 18g

first off a 20g is not $2k,and if you had done a little more research you would'nt have paid $1100 for what is probably no more than a 16g,what size is your turbine housing BTW? but like i said,if you had done the research you could have been running a great dual ball bearing street turbo like the AGP L1R(or others,i just like AGP) for what? another couple hundred dollars? with that warranty you have,i'd be trying to get atleast part of my money back.

 

[Ludachris]

First of all, I'd bet that Leon has run faster than anyone in this thread with multiple turbos, so arguing with him is futile. Second, he asked for more info about the turbo in order to give better advice. If you want to ask for advice, ask advice, but don't get upset when people try and figure out your logic for your modifications.

Goro21, this question IS related to an 18G turbo, and I would disagree that forums are a joke. If you think people are right because it's their money, then they shouldn't ask for advice on how to spend their money in forums. This guy is asking a question in order to prevent damage (in other words, he's trying to save money). Other people are just trying to offer advice on how he can save more money and get more out of it.

 

[McGruffAWD]

Well i dont mean to screw up everyones discussion..but getting back on Topic. I have the same question. Should i get DSM Link first and set the default to 660 then when i turn it on switch it to 450? or go with 660's for a little bit and then get the link? Getting started on this fuel thing is getting me worried.

I will have a 255 pump and a FPR. Just need to know should i go DSM Link first then 660 or 660 then dsm link?

 

[Goro21]

Originally posted by Ludachris
First of all, I'd bet that Leon has run faster than anyone in this thread with multiple turbos, so arguing with him is futile. Second, he asked for more info about the turbo in order to give better advice. If you want to ask for advice, ask advice, but don't get upset when people try and figure out your logic for your modifications.

Goro21, this question IS related to an 18G turbo, and I would disagree that forums are a joke. If you think people are right because it's their money, then they shouldn't ask for advice on how to spend their money in forums. This guy is asking a question in order to prevent damage (in other words, he's trying to save money). Other people are just trying to offer advice on how he can save more money and get more out of it.

This whole thread has been spent talking about how crappy the 18g turbo is.. if ppl were trying to make a point to try and better answer his question, that would be different. .. or if droptop had asked your opinion on his turbo choice, that would be different. but he didnt..

 

[GRNDSM]

Dave,

1. Poster’s question was answered with-in first couple of replies.

2. Poster did not properly identify his turbo, I simply called him on this and didn’t make a big deal about it. However he made this a bigger deal when he misunderstood my comment about this turbo being a “real” 18G…

3. If I can prevent others from making, what I think is, a mistake in turbo selection, I believe that it can benefit that person and the forum.

4. I will agree that this thread got way off topic… I hate doing this and apologize for it…

Leon
RR

 

[Rx3]

Originally posted by McGruffAWD
Well i dont mean to screw up everyones discussion..but getting back on Topic. I have the same question. Should i get DSM Link first and set the default to 660 then when i turn it on switch it to 450? or go with 660's for a little bit and then get the link? Getting started on this fuel thing is getting me worried.

I will have a 255 pump and a FPR. Just need to know should i go DSM Link first then 660 or 660 then dsm link?

Do not run 660cc injectors with no fuel control. That is just not smart. Get the DSMLink or S-AFC first.

Actually, I'm kinda in the same boat. I just got my DSMLink, and it's chipped for 660cc injectors (which I will be buying shortly). I plan to switch it to 450 once I install it, until the 660s come in. Since I have a palm, switching back and forth (in case of battery failure and reversion back to 660cc setup) should be no problem.

 

[GRNDSM]

McGruff,

This is not exactly the same question . Get the DSM Link first. Getting 660’s to run on stock ECU will require SAFC or some other similar fuel controller.

You did not mention your current turbo. Assuming that it is still T25, you definitely do not need to upgrade the injectors!

I took stock 450cc injectors into 12.0’s on race fuel. They should be safe for high 12’s on pump gas w/whatever turbo you use to get yourself there.

Leon
RR

 

[Goro21]

Originally posted by GRNDSM
Dave,

1. Poster’s question was answered with-in first couple of replies.

2. Poster did not properly identify his turbo, I simply called him on this and didn’t make a big deal about it. However he made this a bigger deal when he misunderstood my comment about this turbo being a “real” 18G…

3. If I can prevent others from making, what I think is, a mistake in turbo selection, I believe that it can benefit that person and the forum.

4. I will agree that this thread got way off topic… I hate doing this and apologize for it…

Leon
RR

ok i honestly just thought you were giving him a hard time about it because you could. I appreciate your informative posts on a lot of these threads, wasnt trying to start anything ...