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Battery Relocation Issues

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AG 305

AG 305

15+ Year Contributor
555
1
Apr 20, 2008
Miami, Florida
hey everyone. well ive searched and searched and searched some more about this issue im having with the battery relocation. everything is good except for ONE LITTLE THING!

WHAT DO I DO WITH THE BATTERY TERMINAL FUSES?! :banghead: (ign. alt. rad fan. abs.)

do i just extend that cable along with the main cable to the back? im relocating the battery to the trunk.

PICS of any 1Gs with the battery relocated would be very VERY helpful. thanks

also, the ground in front i keep it for the starter right?

heres a few pics. kinda dark... :|

theyre both connected at the top then split. fuses to fuse box and terminal down towards the starter

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My car has been re-wired and I have the battery in the back. I have a fuse holder in the glove box with all the fuses that you have there under the hood on your terminal. I could take a pic but i dont really think it would help you out.
 
Question is, are you wanting a basic battery relocation or do you want it to be NHRA legal?
 
red92tsi said:
My car has been re-wired and I have the battery in the back. I have a fuse holder in the glove box with all the fuses that you have there under the hood on your terminal. I could take a pic but i dont really think it would help you out.
Click to expand...

well it could be of help cause i can look into doing something like what you got going on.

1990AWD said:
Question is, are you wanting a basic battery relocation or do you want it to be NHRA legal?
Click to expand...


just basic. i know for NHRA i need the whole kill switch thingamabob in back but no no... basic LOL

what ive come up with and correct me if im wrong is just leave them connected as is and just connect the cable imma run to the back to them. right?
 
i like that! the fuses in your glovebox are the same ones i got on my terminal right? what did you buy/do? pics of how it looks in the engine bay would be nice
 
heres what i had in mind. leaving them connected as is and just extending another cable. it should work. i dont see why not.

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UPDATE: well i did it and everything turned out ok. havent been able to see if it starts up or not cause the battery i have is no good and everything was closed by the time i finished :sosad:

this is what i did in the engine bay... looks good

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grounded this where it used to be minus negative battery...

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this is where i ended up grounding in the back...

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and this is how it looks done...

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now if ANYTHING here is wrong or you think there could be an issue with LET ME KNOW! like i said before i havent fired her up yet so if stuff can be prevented now itll be good :D
 
Last edited:
hey you guys, hope this helps you out. check out the pictures I posted of my relocation.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/407595-running-cable-locate-battery-trunk.html

I did not relocate the battery fuse terminal, I used it as a post for the positive wire. I also zip tied it to the other fuse box.

You can not see it in my pictures, but I grounded the battery to the spare tire bolt, and also the bolt right where the seats told down, in the middle of the frame.
 
AG 305 said:
not bad but that just looks like WAY to many wires out front for me. i mean my car is bone stock and the ground im using was the only one there from factory.

now in the back i wouldnt mind some extra ground. can i see a pic of how you have your battery grounded?
Click to expand...

Like I said, more grounds cant hurt so whether its stock or not its will benefit you. Also there are multiple stock grounds.

there should be one going from the battery to the firewall and at least one from the engine to the firewall. The last thing you want is your electrical system trying to ground its self from you engine, I have seen throttle cables melt and warp due to it being the only ground path to the firewall. like in the picture below I have it running form the throttle body to the firewall, that ground cable from the factory used to run from the intake manifold (bolted to where the throttle cable bracket goes) to the firewall.
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I will take a picture tomorrow when its light out.
 
agentorange313 said:
Like I said, more grounds cant hurt so whether its stock or not its will benefit you. Also there are multiple stock grounds.
Click to expand...

yeah i get you. when i said its the only ground i meant like the only ground that i messed with to remove the battery. i just put it back to where it was minus the negative battery cable. everything else and all other grounds remained untouched. ill probably add a few more here and there but not a crazy wire mess like in the write up LOL
 
please use thicker wire when grounding the battery in the trunk. for all your grounds, make sure it's done on metal, so under your hood where it's grounded, sand off the paint behind the connector, then reseat it.

make sure your using AT THE LEAST 2 gauge positive wire. your relay for the positive lead all the way to the trunk screams unsafe to me, get a distributor box and wire that in with 60a fuses.

also on the battery, consider getting an optima if your going to put the battery in the cabin because the one you have now is a vented battery, optimas are non vented batteries.
 
Sorry to revive an ancient thread but I thought I'd share how I handled the battery fuse issue.

First I unbolted the bracket which connects to the positive side of the battery. I straightened it out and jb welded it to the fuse box. Then I ran a wire from where the bracket used to bolt on to my 12v supply line.

I removed the abs wire and bolted to the frame. Now I just have to find the cover to make it a bit neater.

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Figured I would throw my solution out there. I made a panel to mount my junction box and mounted the little fuse block to it. I cut out a space to recess the fuse block and welded a single bracket to the bottom of the panel. I then used to hose clamp to secure the fuse block to the bracket. With the fuse block mounted I took one of the adapters used for charging a side post battery and put it in the hole on the fuse block so I have an easy under the hood positive point should I ever need to jump the car. From there I was able to use a battery cable and run it to my junction block.

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