Originally Posted by Boosted98gsx
That is some hawt sex. Are we getting a full write up on how to install one of these puppies?
What happens to the driver's side fuel sender?
Driver-side fuel sender is no longer used.
Well, the full writeup would consist of:
**Use well ventilated area for working on car**
*Put car on jackstands or lift
*Drain OEM fuel tank (or be really smart and safe dropping the tank with 2 jacks)
*Disconnect OEM filler and vent tubes from tank to the filler neck.
*Remove both inspection ports on the back seat floor to access the gas tank.
*Disconnect your fuel feed and fuel return lines
*Disconnect your electrical connections
*Have two jacks under gas tank (preferably with a couple boards or 12"x12" pads for stabilization)
*Disconnect the 4 fasteners attaching the OEM fuel tank to the underbody while disconnecting the OEM parking brake cable brackets.
*If you have ABS on your car, do the next portion very carefully as it will entail you to disconnect harness connections before fully dropping.
******Lower gas tank slowly - if you have any electrical connection still attached, now is the time to disconnect them.
*Carefully remove gas tank.
*Chop and cap all the vent lines on the OEM filler neck hard line.
*You will be trimming the OEM filler neck soft line to fit -- it takes around 1/2"-1" to fit nice without collapsing or binding. Do this with the tank installed or mocked up.
*If you are running a in-tank fuel pump or pickup assembly, install it into the fuel tank with it on the floor outside the vehicle using 1/4"-18 x 1" bolts/washers/locknuts with bolt through top of compression flange.
*If you are using the full-blown twin pump assembly, quite a bit of modification is required to fit it in, such as trimming of the OEM gasket to fit, modification of the fuel level float, and height modification to fit the 6-1/8" mounting depth.
*Install gas tank using the front passenger side OEM fuel tank mount point, the passenger-side frame bolt, and the passenger-side rear subframe mounting point bolt. On the float lever, I removed the float and compression washer, then used a bolt cutters and cut the bend off (the last bend that the float originally was mounted on), then bent the upper portion (right above the cut bend) into the same shape as the OEM and reinstalled the float and bent the arms until I got the limits full/empty fairly close. If you are doing this, you are definitely better off with an aftermarket float.
*For wiring, I used a Fullblown pump, and used Deutsch connectors. Retain the following wires:
*Black/blue stripe - ignition switch.
*Yellow/blue stripe - used for factory fuel level gauge and warning light.
*Yellow/black marks - used for factory fuel level gauge and warning light as ground.
*You can now wire in your electrical control system for the fuel pumps.
All the other wiring can be pulled if you are not running rear speakers, door light switches or ABS.
*Install fuel cell.
*Installing the fuel lines is self explanatory. As well, the fuel tank breather vent/rollover vent should be mounted high up in the rear passenger-side wheel well by the filler neck -- this will also act as an overflow vent.
Pretty darn easy.