2g head on a 6bolt block Rebuild #2

[jen_cairo]

I have a couple ?'s that i need help with to continue my 2nd build.

I'm using my 2g head on 6 bolt block. And need to know what waterpump and tensioner and timing components I need.(i.e. 6bolt or 7bolt). I also am in ? about the headgasket I will need or if if matters.

ALSO can someone point me in the direction to get a wiring for my cas that I need to install in my 2g head? and what all I need to do so..

Any recommendations would be apprieciated. any ?'s or advice on what to upgrade next would be apprieciated too. Im going to be updating my profie in a little bit to keep up with my part ordering.

 

[FactoryChrome]

Why not use the 2g cas that goes behind the cam gear and the stock wiring...

also, you will need to use the timing components and engine accessories that go on the 6bolt block.

 

[jen_cairo]

I wasnt sure if I could use my 2g cas. And I believe both timing belts are the same. The only difference i see is the cam tensioner has 2 holes in it.

 

[flinguist]

This Magnus 1G in a 2G pdf has a lot of good info.- http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/tech/1gina2g.pdf
I had a shop do my 6 bolt swap using my 2G head, and a 1G CAS. The advantage of the 1G CAS is that you can adjust the timing, however the 1G CAS can also cause a misfire. The Magnus pdf has a fix for the misfire problem. You will also need a connector/adapter to use the CAS to provide the CAS(cam angle sensor), and crank angle sensor signals to the ECU( a 6 bolt doesn't have a crank angle sensor like a 2G 7 bolt motor, you can install a crank angle sensor, but it requires machine work). The connector/adapters are sold by Magnus, or Road Race Engineering, or you can make one using the instructions from RRE RRE Instructions

RRE Instructions

 

[jen_cairo]

This Magnus 1G in a 2G pdf has a lot of good info.- http://www.magnusmotorsports.com/tech/1gina2g.pdf
I had a shop do my 6 bolt swap using my 2G head, and a 1G CAS. The advantage of the 1G CAS is that you can adjust the timing, however the 1G CAS can also cause a misfire. The Magnus pdf has a fix for the misfire problem. You will also need a connector/adapter to use the CAS to provide the CAS(cam angle sensor), and crank angle sensor signals to the ECU( a 6 bolt doesn't have a crank angle sensor like a 2G 7 bolt motor, you can install a crank angle sensor, but it requires machine work). The connector/adapters are sold by Magnus, or Road Race Engineering, or you can make one using the instructions from RRE RRE Instructions

RRE Instructions

thanks for that link thats exactly what i was looking for. I called thm but they were busy. So i take it theres no way to bolt on a 7bolt water pump?

 

[clockworktoy]

No you cannot use the 7bolt water pump, you must mod the 7bolt motor mount to fit around the 6bolt waterpump. Then use the timing components from a 6bolt. I believe it is all listed in the magnus writeup. Also do remember to drill out the holes on the head for the headstuds at least 1mm bigger to accommodate the larger 6bolt headstuds. Oh and about the cam sensor you HAVE to use a 1g cam sensor since there is no crank sensor on the 6bolt and no simple way to bolt it on.

 

[LiquidX]

No you cannot use the 7bolt water pump, you must mod the 7bolt motor mount to fit around the 6bolt waterpump. Then use the timing components from a 6bolt. I believe it is all listed in the magnus writeup. Also do remember to drill out the holes on the head for the headstuds at least 1mm bigger to accommodate the larger 6bolt headstuds. Oh and about the cam sensor you HAVE to use a 1g cam sensor since there is no crank sensor on the 6bolt and no simple way to bolt it on.

All of that and everyone elses responses are correct. If using the 2g head, the timing side is 1g, everything else is 2g. MOST if not all people will use the 1g CAS, but you can have a 2g oil pump modified along with the block so they will mount up properly and is capable of using the stock sensors.

1mm over on the head for the 1g studs. It's either the bottom left or top left head stud hole that has the oil galley in it. That hole, you will want to drill it out a bit more than the 1mm extra until you just pass the oil galley, then drop it back down to the stud size. You do that so you don't cause excess restriction or starvation at the head because of the drilling.

 

[FactoryChrome]

It's the passenger/exhaust corner stud hole that goes from the block to the valve body... and yes I learned the hard way by oil starving a 2g head from not drilling out big enough to allow oil passage.

 

[jen_cairo]

Thank you all very much would anyone have pics or a like to the cas install on a 2g head? And exactly which hole to drill? Im pretty sure I know but I would like to be 100% condering I spent alot of money already on my project.

And I have 7 bolt arp head studs so i figured i would have to drill out those holes anyways.

 

[LiquidX]

Thank you all very much would anyone have pics or a like to the cas install on a 2g head? And exactly which hole to drill? Im pretty sure I know but I would like to be 100% condering I spent alot of money already on my project.

And I have 7 bolt arp head studs so i figured i would have to drill out those holes anyways.

You have to use 6 bolt studs on the block and drill out the 2g head to match the oversized head studs from the 6 bolt. Follow the RRE guide that's posted above. It tells you all you need to know. Just make sure about the one stud hole that needs a little extra that myself and Factory Chrome mentioned.

 

[gorf]

OR you can do this:

6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G Eclipse

2g front cover so you can use your 2g crank angle sensor. I believe dsmgraveyard will build a 1g block for you like this.

My 1g block is like this, I got it from showdown motorsports

 

[jen_cairo]

So on the rre website it says i can use my 2g thermostat housing and water pipe? But i would have to modify my water pump or no?

 

[FactoryChrome]

You can use whatever stat housing you want... one head uses bolts the other uses studs... just get bolts or studs depending on what you need... it's really not hard to figure out. Also you don't need to crank those down super hard, remember the head is aluminum and you can pull threads out of it pretty easily.

Just drill to 1/2" on the stud holes for the 6 bolt studs... if you measure the studs and compare to 1/2" you'll see that you have plenty of clearance space for oil and head seating on the dowel pins. I also suggest taking the allen head galley plugs out and washing the head out at the car wash. That's a trick that I learned from someone more experienced than me to clean out any crud that the machine shop or you may have left in there. If you can, get a drill press to do the stud holes so you drill them centered instead of.... off center.... but it's worth mentioning that I always just use a hand drill to do this job.

 

[LiquidX]

So on the rre website it says i can use my 2g thermostat housing and water pipe? But i would have to modify my water pump or no?

You use the 2g t-stat and water pipe, but use a 1g 6bolt water pump. Everything is 2g except the timing side and CAS unless you mod the front case.

 

[jen_cairo]

ok i ordered 6bolt arp head studs and everythng else recommended. is there any break n oil preffered?

 

[LiquidX]

Just use any dino oil. Cheaper the better since you will just flush it after 50-100 miles anyway. Don't use synthetic until you fully break the motor in. You want the rings to wear into the walls and synthetic is just too good to allow that to happen properly.

 

[jen_cairo]

any recomendations on what my next upgrade would benifit me the most?i still have my stock o2 housing and exhaust and no tuning or wideband. but my profile is pretty up to date. i want it to be a dd but eventually get to 450whp.

 

[LiquidX]

any recomendations on what my next upgrade would benifit me the most?i still have my stock o2 housing and exhaust and no tuning or wideband. but my profile is pretty up to date. i want it to be a dd but eventually get to 450whp.

The best power would be getting a free flowing exhaust setup. Since you are on 650cc injectors without tuning, I'll vote for tuning and would say get ECMLink unless you want to run the 98/99 flashable ECU. Get a wideband as well (Innovate LC-1).

 

[jen_cairo]

The best power would be getting a free flowing exhaust setup. Since you are on 650cc injectors without tuning, I'll vote for tuning and would say get ECMLink unless you want to run the 98/99 flashable ECU. Get a wideband as well (Innovate LC-1).

i have a 3in dp thinking of getting a megan o2housing and apexi n1 catback. whats your opinion? and is an aem wb good too?