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Hacking the fuel filter banjo bolt

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doug

20+ Year Contributor
3,120
19
Mar 9, 2002
I've been hearing about how restrictive the banjo bolt (or "eye bolt", as the service manual calls it) on top of the fuel filter is. So I was wondering if it is possible to drill out the hole in it a little bit to improve fuel flow. I'm changing my fuel filter tomorrow (wish me luck!) and thought that while I had the bolt off I could enlarge the hole a bit if there's room enough. Is this doable (i.e. is there enough room around the hole to allow it to be drilled out some and still be structurally sound)? I could then tell people I have a ported fuel line... :D
 
I wouldn't bother wasting the time..If you want upgrade your fuel lines to -AN lines..although stock fuel lines and filters have gone 10's...
 
I do have plans of eventually doing the AN conversion, using a high-flow inline filter and stuff. I meant to mention that in the original post. I was just looking at this as a no-cost, short term thing, if there was any reason to do so.
 
I appreciate your input and will certainly think about it. But my question wasn't really "should I" but more "can I". I don't really consider it a waste of time (it seems like a pretty quick and easy thing to do anyway) if there's any gains to be had, especially since my EGTs are too high in the upper RPM ranges, indicating (I believe) that I'm running lean there. So until I can get enough cash together to do the high flow fuel system thing, I thought this might be a small step toward getting a tad bit more fuel through the stock lines. Yeah, it's probably stupid, but then again, so am I sometimes....
 
Do you have an upgraded fuel pump? There is nothing restrictive about the stock fuel lines, filter, banjo bolt or whatever if you still have the stock fuel pump. You would be better off rewiring the pump.
 
Originally posted by pneumo
Do you have an upgraded fuel pump? There is nothing restrictive about the stock fuel lines, filter, banjo bolt or whatever if you still have the stock fuel pump. You would be better off rewiring the pump.

I agree with the larger fuel pump statement -- didn't see one in your list, so I'd start there. Based on what's on your wishlist, you may want to consider a 255hp and FPR, because you could run out of room with the 190 if you decided to go with one of the larger turbos you mentioned. Regarding the stock fuel lines, though, they ARE restrictive...it's just that we can get around that with larger pumps and injectors. The banjo bolt is arguably the most restrictive point in the entire fuel path, and I'm sure that just about anyone here would agree with that. Don't know that I'd drill it out, though. Maybe someone with more experience could comment on that.
As far as rewiring the pump, that one's completely up to you -- just do yourself a favor and check the voltage before you do it. Just remember, good voltage = no need to rewire. If you were to do a search on the rewire, you'll see how much this has been discussed.
 
the fuel lines aren't restictive? then why can people run 17 psi on a 20G with the STOCK pump on PUMP gas with upgraded fuel lines?
 
Originally posted by Ed98GST
As far as rewiring the pump, that one's completely up to you -- just do yourself a favor and check the voltage before you do it. Just remember, good voltage = no need to rewire.
I am planning on checking fuel pump voltage-- in fact, I asked the question here the other day about exactly where to put the multimeter probes onto the fuel pump connector. Still can't figure that one out, though-- it seems I have some sort of mutant looking fuel pump housing with an extra harness/connector on top of it...
 
My stealth has this same banjo fitting and it is just stupid !!! My best friend that has a 650WHP grand national said he wouldn't run that thing at idle, let alone 7000rpms... I've been search trying to find a "banjo eliminator" but the only place I've found them doesn't return my e-mails...

Here it is. http://www.proplusfx.com/fuel/index.htm

Its at the bottom of the page... But its proof that a simple "banjo eliminator" does exsist, and I don't think it is one bit stupid to replace it..
 
I don't need or want to upgrade the WHOLE FUEL LINE, just the banjo fitting that comes from the fuel filter... I can built my own fuel line system from the pump to the rails, with an aftermarket fuel filter and all for around $500, but I don't need or want to, I just wanna take care of the serious bottle neck in the system ( and the loop between the rails in my case ). So I only need a fitting or something that treads into the FACTORY fuel filter and comes out into either a barbed fitting to -AN fitting..

To be total different cars and engine set-ups these cars are alike in a lot of ways..
 
Originally posted by nine5raptor
try this: www.autoalchemy.com if your rails are similar to the tel.
That's the exact one I'm looking at for the end of the fuel rail. I've also put together a list of AN fittings and connectors to do the line from the bottom of the fuel filter to the rail. I'll have to go look for that sometime and post it if anybody's interested.

On another note, I just got done replacing the stock fuel filter-- and yes, it IS a PITA. Since I'm stubborn and hard-headed, I went ahead and drilled out the existing banjo bolt a little-- I am just too curious to see if it has any effect. I used a 7/32 bit-- a 1/4 bit would've been a little better, but I ruined mine the other day making a new hole for my air filter bracket. I haven't run the car hard yet-- just took it easy around the block to check for leaks. I'll report back later after I do some WOT pulls to see if it changes my EGTs or anything.
 
why not just go with a larger filter? our cars the filter only flows about 2 lpm. wanna guess how much my russel fuel filter flows? (hint: its recommended up to 1000hp :D )
 
Originally posted by doug

That's the exact one I'm looking at for the end of the fuel rail. I've also put together a list of AN fittings and connectors to do the whole line from the bottom of the fuel filter to the rail. I'll have to go look for that sometime and post it if anybody's interested.

On another note, I just got done replacing the stock fuel filter-- and yes, it IS a PITA. Since I'm stubborn and hard-headed, I went ahead and drilled out the existing banjo bolt a little-- I am just too curious to see if it has any effect. I used a 7/32 bit-- a 1/4 bit would've been a little better, but I ruined mine the other day making a new hole for my air filter bracket. I haven't run the car hard yet-- just took it easy around the block to check for leaks. I'll report back later after I do some WOT pulls to see if it changes my EGTs or anything.

www.autoaclhemy.com for the fuel rail piece.
www.summitracing.com for the rest. I used: 2 hose ends, 1 inline connector, 1 high flow fuel filter (russel competition for me), 2ft of hose (I used regular 3/8" fuel injection hose)
 
Yea and that russel filter is sooo cheap to replace too..

NO -AN fittings to the rail, no braided line, or anything but the elimintor.. Thats all I need, where and how much $$, and when I can get it.. JUST THE BANJO ELIMINTOR, not a kit, a turbo, a big block chevy swap... JUST the BANJO ELIMINATOR FITTING !!

Screw it into the the filter, and out comes either a -AN style fitting or even a BARB fitting...
 
So what is it you're looking for again? :D

But seriously folks, that ProPlusFX site is also the only place I've seen that offers a "Banjo Bolt Eliminator" thingy. But since I'm gonna do more than that piece, I didn't investigate it too much. I did look at some of their fuel rail stuff, though.
 
BEAUTIFUL !!!! That's what I was looking for !!! The pipe thread maybe different but yes that general idea !! That will work I'm sure and I feel stupid for not reallizing I could do that in the begining !!! Duhh.. Thanx Doug...
 
Umm, you're welcome, but it wasn't me-- it was Nine5raptor. Anyway, the parts list for what I'm planning on goes like this:

- Earls 9894DBH adapter (14x1.5 Female to 6AN Male)
- Earls 915106 (6AN F to 6AN F straight swivel adapter)
- K&N 81-0530 (Fuel filter, 6AN M to 6AN M)
- Earls 100199 (6AN F to 6AN M with 1/8 NPT gauge port)
- Earls 809106 (6AN 90 degree hose end)
- Earls 400060 perform-o-flex 6AN hose (2 foot length)
- Earls 804606 (6AN 45 degree hose end)
- AutoAlchemy adapter (6AN M to DSM fuel rail inlet)

Although I've heard some bad things about the K&N filter, so I may go with a Russell or Aeromotive or something.
 
Originally posted by doug
Umm, you're welcome, but it wasn't me-- it was Nine5raptor. Anyway, the parts list for what I'm planning on goes like this:

- Earls 9894DBH adapter (14x1.5 Female to 6AN Male)
what's this one for?
- Earls 915106 (6AN F to 6AN F straight swivel adapter)
this will screw right on to the stock flare fitting
- K&N 81-0530 (Fuel filter, 6AN M to 6AN M)
- Earls 100199 (6AN F to 6AN M with 1/8 NPT gauge port)
- Earls 809106 (6AN 90 degree hose end)
- Earls 400060 perform-o-flex 6AN hose (2 foot length)
- Earls 804606 (6AN 45 degree hose end)
- AutoAlchemy adapter (6AN M to DSM fuel rail inlet)

Although I've heard some bad things about the K&N filter, so I may go with a Russell or Aeromotive or something.
I chose the Russel, but to each his own
Looks pretty good
 
Originally posted by nine5raptor
what's this one for?
Well, I thought I needed it to screw into the stock 14mm nut that normally goes onto the bottom of the stock filter.
Originally posted by nine5raptor
this will screw right on to the stock flare fitting
So you mean that I don't need the 14mm to -6AN adapter piece to screw into that 14mm nut? Is this "flare fitting" the same 14mm nut thing I was talking about above?
 
the hard line comes up and screws into the bottom of the filter via a flare fitting.
the -6 an female will mate right up to it. this was suggested by rigby (stevetek himself) I did it and it works fine.
 
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