just did a 20g swap, need addvice

Boostin95RST · 07-12-2008, 04:27 AM

ok so a friend of mine just bought a 95 gsx. everything was stock on it besides the exaust and some guages.

right away he wanted to upgrade and go bigger. so thats what we did.

the clutch went out a couple days after buying the car off craigslist so we decided to do it all while its down.\

he bought a 20g td05 internal gate, big fmic, all piping, injen intake, turbo xs rfl bov, a cat because we need them here, exaust mani, mbc, and just ordered a new clutch.

so we put it all on and it fired right up on the first try. but we cant drive it to see what its boostiin at because the clutch is gone. we cant even see how its going to run on stock injectors and pump.

does anyone have an idea of what kind of boost we can run on it right now, and what will happen if boost is too high. just looking out for the car and trying not to blow up the unreliable 7bolt for now. thanks all in advanced.

Rob10_99 · 07-12-2008, 04:31 AM

With no fuel mods theres no way you can really boost on that turbo,
12psi I would say is max to redline, you could get away with 14psi if you didnt take it all the way up.
Fuel mods, read the tech section to get the idea.
What gave you guys the idea of getting a 20g? bolt on?
I don't know of anyone using those these days

Jeff99GS · 07-12-2008, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boostin95RST

ok so a friend of mine just bought a 95 gsx. everything was stock on it besides the exaust and some guages.

right away he wanted to upgrade and go bigger. so thats what we did.

the clutch went out a couple days after buying the car off craigslist so we decided to do it all while its down.\

he bought a 20g td05 internal gate, big fmic, all piping, injen intake, turbo xs rfl bov, a cat because we need them here, exaust mani, mbc, and just ordered a new clutch.

so we put it all on and it fired right up on the first try. but we cant drive it to see what its boostiin at because the clutch is gone. we cant even see how its going to run on stock injectors and pump.

does anyone have an idea of what kind of boost we can run on it right now, and what will happen if boost is too high. just looking out for the car and trying not to blow up the unreliable 7bolt for now. thanks all in advanced.

Hey whats up Man, Im the guy at that shop in bedford that you guys came to see that Blue eclipse and the red eclipse. How you been man? So your dude finally got an eclipse? How much did he pay for it?

Boostin95RST · 07-12-2008, 01:56 PM

whats goin on jeff, ya he finally got one. he got the 95 gsx and only paid 4000 it came wit 17s on it and a set of 18in motegi's...... and then just dropped about 1500 into it.

for the othere guy, i dont know why 20g. i guess wanted to go big. i dont know, he is going to do the 6 bolt soon. we figured drive it till it blows and then swap it out, so im thinking in a couple weeks lol

Boostin95RST · 07-12-2008, 02:05 PM

hey jeff, if you decide to get dsmlink, let me know because im looking for a safc. just let me know your price...

RedTurboEclipse · 07-12-2008, 02:34 PM

20g for "going big"?

i'd say for going old

hope you got a good deal on it.

isn't the RFL the bov that does not recirculate

get some fuel mods

turboglenn · 07-12-2008, 04:37 PM

I would not recomend driving or boosting until you have a pump, injectors and at least an SAFC. If you get out there and start putting some boost out the stock fuel system will not keep up and then you may end up pulling the whole motor to swap it out. It's as if the clutch was your saving grace in the terms that more damage could have resulted if you went out on a 20g and stock fuel setup even just for a "testing".

I hear people dogging the 20g because it's 20 year old technology, but honestly besides a few newer turbos that are a little better designed for todays applications, i dont' really see the 20g being "out of date" as far as progress in power and spool it's a lot better than the Garrett's of it's day IMO. Mitsubishi turbos just drive me nuts because of the funky snap ring and the little dowel to keep you from re-clocking them without modification. I like how most other brands just use bolt down plate style clamping that allows you to aim the turbo for your application or desires.

Even if you are swapping out for a 6 bolt soon, there's no need to destroy a perfectly good "back up" motor.

Boostin95RST · 07-16-2008, 03:25 AM

20g is what he wanted so thats what he got. he didnt spend alot for it.

yes the rfl does not recurculate. whats the problem with that. i dont know as much about the 4g63 but it seems to run ok without. another friend just went to the hks ssq bov and did not recurculate and he just popped a call but thats all.

b00stedtalon2 · 07-16-2008, 03:55 AM

On my Buschur 20g, I was maxing out the stock injectors at about 8psi.

Car currently has PTE880cc injectors with a rewired 255HP fuel pump. I have a good amount of fuel left running 24psi right now.

kahl23 · 07-16-2008, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boostin95RST

20g is what he wanted so thats what he got. he didnt spend alot for it.

yes the rfl does not recurculate. whats the problem with that. i dont know as much about the 4g63 but it seems to run ok without. another friend just went to the hks ssq bov and did not recurculate and he just popped a call but thats all.

Non recirculating BOV's vent air that's already been metered before it gets to the engine. The ECU doesn't know that this air is no longer in the system, and so it still has added fuel for this air. That means that whenever you close your throttle plate and the BOV vents the car will run rich stumble/bog whatever. Some people get away with this for a while, others don't, you never know which one you will be. Also, the rich exhaust gases will kill your O2 sensors and cat earlier than if you were not venting. The RFL is considered pretty bad/ricey/whatever because it's been known to leak and there are not even any provisions for recirculating, both unlike the ssqv, it's just designed to be Really F***ing Loud, but if thats your thing...

The only way to correctly vent to the atmosphere is if you are running either a GM MAF setup or some kind of speed density, neither of which your friend has.

Drifte · 07-16-2008, 10:39 AM

why we have to rag on the 20g, I have a Br20g spools plenty quick IMO. Good deal on that car though. Hows it look? Def. get some fuel mods to back it up, IMO no wot until WB02.

Boostin95RST · 07-16-2008, 01:00 PM

ya like i said it is a friends car. we have been told about the gm MAF. i dont know anything about them. another thing i dont know about is the wide band o2. whats that all about. the 20g has the internal wastgate and we dont even know what psi the spring is set at. is there anyway to find out. i heard put a manual pump on it and pump till it starts to leak out. is this correct.

Boostin95RST · 07-16-2008, 01:05 PM

by the way drifte, it looks good. i would say alot better then it did, we just got to hope now when its done that it will run better then it did.

Boosted98gsx · 07-16-2008, 03:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boostin95RST

yes the rfl does not recurculate. whats the problem with that. i dont know as much about the 4g63 but it seems to run ok without. another friend just went to the hks ssq bov and did not recurculate and he just popped a call but thats all.

RFL is also a leaky piece. Unless you're running blow through with the MAF post BOV, DO NOT VENT, you are going to dump fuel into your cylinders in between shifts, and have to burn that off before you can get any real power back.

Hook a pressure gauge bike pump up to it, and see at what pressure the actuator arm moves.

Boostin95RST · 07-16-2008, 04:49 PM

thaks alot guyes, you all have been a big help. i will show this thread to my friend. alo if someone can fill me in about the wide band o2

dalatinromeo · 07-16-2008, 08:02 PM

The wideband basically gives the exact air fuel ratio. With DSMLink and a wideband you can make sure your not running to lean or too rich as the wideband will tell you your air fuel ratio.

Boostin95RST · 07-16-2008, 11:27 PM

ahhh is see, sounds simple enough. now with the o2, do you have to get both upstream and down in wideband.?

Boosted98gsx · 07-16-2008, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boostin95RST

ahhh is see, sounds simple enough. now with the o2, do you have to get both upstream and down in wideband.?

Uh, upstream? Widebands don't like temperatures (at least the 5v bosch sensor which most all wideband controllers use) higher than 400*C, so the only option is post turbine, and it is preferred at least 18" downstream of the turbine.