The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Engine building/Stroker kit

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

SOURCE1064

20+ Year Contributor
954
0
Apr 15, 2002
Paramus, New Jersey
I consider myself to be quite knowledgeable about cars but I have a question about what I'm doing on mine. I see posts about stroker kits and I wanted to know what changes the car's displacement the .3 liters?

Here is my setup what would my car be considered? 2.? liters.

Stage 3 Racing Short Block Work
8 Hours of Port work
Extrude Honed
Balanced
Blueprinted
HKS Metal Head Gasket
Stage 3 Racing Head Work
Hot Tank
O ringed
Pressure Tested
Resurfaced
New Valve Stem Seals
Bronze Valve guides
8 Hours of Port work
J&E Forged Pistons 9.0:1 compression, .020" oversized
Eagle Forged Connecting Rods
Nitrite Coated Stainless Steel Valves 1.0mm oversized
Crower Titanium Valve Springs With Retainers
Clevite 77 rod bearings and main bearings
Buschur Racing Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit
Knife Edge and Balance Crankshaft
HKS Cams 272 degree intake and 272 degree exhaust cam
 
It will free up some Hp but increasing displacement? I always thought like on a 350 bored over made it a 355 and changing the crank made it a 383 stroker. Beats me on our 1997cc 2.0 engines
 
Originally posted by SOURCE1064
So since I'm having my crank knife edged, taking weigh off of the crank will change the displacement?

Maybe enough to make it 2.05L
 
The displacement is a funciton of bore and stroke. You can bore out the motor but it will not increase the over all displacement that much. The 'stroker kit' buzz word is really a 2.4l crank. It elongates the stroke which increases the displacement. However the longer stroke makes new problems for you including rod angle and piston design.

Knife-edging the crank is really not worth it, IMHO. A lightened and balanced crank yes. Knife edging no. Hell I have a 6-bolt knife edge and lightened crank sitting on my storage shell with a gauge out of the thrust bearing surface collecting dust. All it needs is a weld up, grind, and re-harden but to me its not worth the time and effort.
 
Knife-edging the crank will not encrease the displacement in any way.

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but replacing crank for the one with bigger outside diameter will increase desplacement.
 
the larger crank will also give you more torque and drop your redline a little if i'm not mistaken. Its a good idea though. And when "stroking" an engine you don't have to necessarily get a different crank but rather just adjust the position of the rods on the crank to a different angle will up your displacement. I once read some huge article on it in some muscle car magazine.... i only read it cause of the stroking article.
 
Originally posted by rubbersidedown
the larger crank will also give you more torque and drop your redline a little if i'm not mistaken. Its a good idea though. And when "stroking" an engine you don't have to necessarily get a different crank but rather just adjust the position of the rods on the crank to a different angle will up your displacement. I once read some huge article on it in some muscle car magazine....

The 'more torque' is because of the bigger stroke and the drop in redline is a function of the rod angles. Let's start using the the proper terms. :D


Originally posted by rubbersidedown
i only read it cause of the stroking article.

Dude, that was a Penthouse, not a big motor mag. :D
 
definition of 'stroker motor': the center of the rod journals on the crank is moved away from the previous center. the ammount of movement has the function of doubling the ammount of movement... example: moving the center of the rod journal on the crank 10 mm would give your motor a stroke of 20 mm over the stock crank. you can effectively stroke a stock crank by simply offset grinding the stock crank... doing this weakens the crank and makes the rod journal smaller: the solution, buy an aftermarket or obtain a crank from another motor that has a different stroke but will fit in. using a stroker crank from a 2.4 liter: I would STRONGLY recomend taking it to a machine shop and having all of the surfaces measured, reground, and remeasured. have them order your main bearings and new rods (if needed) and new rod bearings to fit the grind job. make sure its a GOOD machine shop, ask them if they leave the lands on the sides of the journal, if they dont- dont bother with using their services. MAKE sure to do the math on your new crank in reguards to your rod and how a stroker crank will effect your compression, stroke into the piston bore, deck clearance and make sure that you dont have an interferance fit. the best thing to do is get the specs for stock deck clearance and do the math to make the new rods have the same deck clearance when the new crank is in. if you do all of this, you should be just fine... BUT when doing this, your stroke effectively increases the volume of your chamber, so even if it pushes up to stock deck clearance, you will have an effectively higher compression ratio. use pistons with a slightly less ratio not to mention call the folks up at the piston houses, im sure they have the math done for stuff like this.

there are quite a few places that sell DSM stroker kits, look them up... and go with a 6 bolt guys, no need to trash motors guys (assuming that the 2.4 is a 7 bolt and it would suffer from crankwalk if installed on a 95+ 4g63)

god i love beeing a mechanic.
 
There are special pistions out there for the stroker motors. Instead of using a shorter rod. What they do with the pistions is move the wrist pin up. SO that you may use stock rods. I believe with these pistions you do not have to do math about compression ratio's. meaning that if the pistion is for 8.8/1 ratio, it will not be affected buy the longer stroke of the crank
 
Increasing displacement can be acheived through 3 methods. The first is through boring the engine, wich increases the size of each cylinder, then installing the larger corresponding pistons. The second, wich is not often used in automotive applications, is to have each crank pin offset ground, thus effectively necessitating the installation of longer rods and shorter pistons, giving you a longer stroke and more torque. The third is pretty obvious, but I'll cover it anyways. The installation of an aftermarket (or OEM in many cases) crank that has the crank pins located further toward the edge of the rotating mass or the crank radius through an alteration of the casting or forging design. This method also warrants longer rods and shorter pistons.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top