Following tuning guide on DSM Tuners

[EuroGSTSpyder]

I am to start buying up my stuff for a tune up on the Spyder since we are getting alot of cash straight up soon.I was looking through alot of "Performance stages" on different sites and I was wondering:

Lets say I follow the Tuning Guide here on DSM Tuners to the point almost...will I really get up in the numbers said on there?Sounds alittle much IMO.
If I go from point 1 to 17(stage two) with this setup:

1: Injen Intake
2: Autometer Boost gauge
3:3000GT BOV
4: Dejon Tool Dual MBC
5,6,7: custom 3" system all the way
8: port the stock manifold
9: port the stock housing
10: Walbro 255
11: Autometer EGT gauge
12: Apex'i S-AFC
13: DSM link
14:RC 550's
15: Big 16G ( or regular 16G)
16. Big Greddy FMIC
17: ACT 2600 kit


This is what will be done if I go for the DSM Tuners upgrade path.....any suggestions/changes/additions to be made?Where will this put me in the power range?What times to expect on the quarter?How high can I go on the boost with this setup?
Now this aint no b-#### question but a serious one to learn before buying.The cash is comming in as a bonus on my GF:s work(she is a department chief and gets a yearly bonus)and she wants to spend it on the Spyder to be able to race this summer so help me out here

If all goes as planned this will be on the car before summer and the summer races begins.

 

[nine5raptor]

3: get an uicp with 1G bov instead
12,13: you only need one of the two don't you?

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

3:Well the UICP will be custom made as well,with any flange I choose..and any BOV too..but for now and for the discussson I choose this solution

12,13:I do..was just asking as I said

 

[98TsiAWD]

9: I'm assuming you are talking about the o2 housing, just get your exhaust from www.rnrracing.com and get the 3" o2 elim. turbo back. That will take care of 2 steps.


17. For a FWD car I dont see any reason for getting the 2600 other than to induce crankwalk. Im sure the 2100 would be plenty for all those mods on a FWD.

10. Also for a big16g, 550cc injectors are fine, and I would suggest a 190 fuel pump for that setup. The 255 isnt needed for 550 injectors and you would also need a FPR for a 255 pump.

Supposedly with a ported/clipped big16g with that setup you should be able to max out that turbo which supports 370ish whp area so Ive read.

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

Ok so this is the redone list..how does it sound with this set up then?Am I still around the 350HP mark or what?What can I expect at the tracks(depending on drivingskills I know*S*)I am to order all this (except the stuf marked with an * cause its already on the car) in a month from now so I am trying to find best way to go


1: Injen Intake*
2: Autometer Boost gauge *
3: 3000GT BOV *
4: Dejon Tool Dual MBC *
5,6,7: custom 3" system all the way
8: port the stock manifold
9: 3" Eliminator DP (the rest will be custommade by a pro-shop)
10: Walbro 190/255
11: Autometer EGT gauge
12: Apex'i S-AFC
13: --------
14:RC 550's
15: Big 16G ported/clipped
16. Big Greddy FMIC (with custom UICP/LICP)
17: ACT 2100 kit

 

[larryd]

You say 350hp, do you mean crank hp or wheel hp, big difference there and are you talking on race gas or pump gas?

1: Injen Intake*
2: Autometer Boost gauge *
3: 3000GT BOV *

(never heard of anyone using this, 1st gen BOV is what most people recommend)

4: Dejon Tool Dual MBC *
5,6,7: custom 3" system all the way
8: port the stock manifold
9: 3" Eliminator DP (the rest will be custommade by a pro-shop)
10: Walbro 190/255

(with a 255 you would also need an AFPR)

11: Autometer EGT gauge
12: Apex'i S-AFC
14:RC 550's
15: Big 16G ported/clipped

since you have a 2G Id suggest something more like the T28 Killer from turbochargers.com since it is essentially a 16G that bolts up to a 2G.

16. Big Greddy FMIC (with custom UICP/LICP)
17: ACT 2100 kit

 

[rubbersidedown]

don't forget the k&n filter If i were you i'd throw in a few extra little goodies like a short throw shift kit, an oil catch can, data logger and whatever other semi-cheap things you can think of that would make the car a little more fun to drive and whatnot. As long as you got all this money comming in then why not?

 

[ImportModder]

I wish I had money coming in like that. Oh well, I'm finally starting to mod my car so its all good.

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

Originally posted by larryd
You say 350hp, do you mean crank hp or wheel hp, big difference there and are you talking on race gas or pump gas?

1: Injen Intake*
2: Autometer Boost gauge *
3: 3000GT BOV *

(never heard of anyone using this, 1st gen BOV is what most people recommend)

4: Dejon Tool Dual MBC *
5,6,7: custom 3" system all the way
8: port the stock manifold
9: 3" Eliminator DP (the rest will be custommade by a pro-shop)
10: Walbro 190/255

(with a 255 you would also need an AFPR)

11: Autometer EGT gauge
12: Apex'i S-AFC
14:RC 550's
15: Big 16G ported/clipped

since you have a 2G Id suggest something more like the T28 Killer from turbochargers.com since it is essentially a 16G that bolts up to a 2G.

16. Big Greddy FMIC (with custom UICP/LICP)
17: ACT 2100 kit

I was talking 350crank power as for now.It will be running on 98 pumpgas and soetimes on the track maybe on 110racegas.
How much does the t28killer produce/are capable of? I thought the 16G was a little better then the t-28K or are the pretty much the same?
Reason for a 3000GT BOV are that they are the same size and bots just right in the stock pipe)for now) and that they hold alot more boost(20-22psi) then the 2G stock and for now hat will do just fine for me and I got it for 25$ so..I went with it.

 

[larryd]

it seems that all the T28 variant type turbos are capable of making around 300-350whp maxing the turbo out. thats wheel horse power so 350 crank is definitely not out of questions.

I had the Big28 and the general consensus on it vs the 16G was the Big28 will spool a few hundred rpm sooner and the 16G will pull a lil harder up top.

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

well since we are to try it at the tracks the 16g will be better due to traction issues if the Bt-28 spools up faster.Better to have some top end power and get the trapspeed up..right?

 

[hostile]

I am going to go out on a limb and say the 3000gt and firstgen use the same BOV.

I know the BOV on the vr4 is a good for 18-20 psi.

You can get a brand new first gen bov from partznet.

Also I would say unless you buying the big16g kit from forcedperformance.com you should just buy a 20g.

If you are going to do it right the 20g will make you happier than a big16g.

The big16g is a good turbo if you are doing things slow. But if you can afford fuel and turbo at the same time go bigger.

I would also say run the 190 fuel pump and not the 255. The 255 will make you run rich with out a fuel pressure regulator, and guys seem to do fine with the 190.

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

I am going for the Forced Performance offer on the 16G..thats why I chose it..I will do good with that for along time forward and it will satisfy my needds for this summer and next so..no hurry for a 20G really..but on the other hand..if I buy a 20G and the injectors+pump+S-AFC..would I be ok or would I ned more stuff?

 

[InferiorWang]

if you got a 20g then you might want to up your injectors to 660's and then you might want the walbro 255 for fuel and then the afpr. You really wouldnt need a new turbo for a good while after the 20g depending on how much power you ultimately want to make. You may only want to make enough power to use the 16g and then save yourself some $$$.

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

Ok I get it..but since I am satisfied with the setup above I will go for the Big16G and the 550's if you think that is enough.The Walbro 190 should be enough to support it you say?
Compared to the setup above how muh would I gain by going 20G and 660's+ FPR?There is also a cost issue of course so I wanna keep it down a little eventhough I m spending pretty much anyways..**

 

[larryd]

he is only looking to make 350 crank hp.. I seriously doubt he needs a 20G. Im suer he would be happy with a 16G turbo

 

[hostile]

Yeah the forced performance package is a good deal.

I have seen guys getaway with pumps even smaller than the 190. A lot of guys use vr4 pumps.

I would go with the 190. If you have doubts call up forced and brian or robert will give you good advice.

 

[larryd]

FYI, a VR4 pump is a 190

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

I can get a VR4 pump really cheap since I have friends that have that pump but upgrades them to bigger..so if I can use a VR4 pump and its truly a 190 then I am home free for a while

So this setup starts to look ok then...for 350HP crank power?

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Originally posted by larryd
he is only looking to make 350 crank hp.. I seriously doubt he needs a 20G. Im suer he would be happy with a 16G turbo

Let's settle in the middle and say a nice ported big16g.

 

[DrZiplok]

The parts certainly look like they'll support your goals.

There's one thing I don't see on your list though, and that's tuning time and a dyno. You're going to be spending a while dialling your 'link setup in, and you're going to want a dyno and a UEGO setup for that.

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

Tuning time I have plenty of but a Dyno can be worse...I might get a time but cant go on there lots of times though.Excuse my stupidity but whats a UEGo setup?
I will keep ya all updated on whats happening with the car as soon as the parts are ordered.And yes..I am going for a ported big16G probably*smile*

 

[EuroGSTSpyder]

Well now I found me a Palm VX5 to use for the pocketlogger and that will help me in tuning.I will also buy the S-AFC II for tuning so...will that get me where I wanna be in the tuning department?