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11.99 recipe, need all opinions

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rforres

20+ Year Contributor
72
0
Oct 1, 2002
jacksonville, Florida
mods in profile, i need to drop 1.27 seconds, is this a realistic goal for a weekend driven full weight car on race gas, next mods are fmic,afc,550s or 660s, not sure yet and lots of seat o the pants tuning, no awd dyno near here, or do i buy a vce and 2wd dyno, is it really worth it ? ive read stock injectors and smic can go 12.0x's but i dunno if thats the exception or the rule, im not a newbie and i know about staged upgrades bust just looking for something that may have worked foy anyone personally, ie water injection, n.o.s. is not out of the question either although i do have 1 failed install on this car already , so anyways throw anything at me and thanks in advance, best times so far are a 13.26 @ 103.75, 1.79 60ft
 
i agree, but im not, i dunno why, 141k on motor but good compression across the board, i have 0 tuning besides a pocket logger, is a afc really going to help me tune that much withs stock injectors ? i "think" i drive fairly well and shift very fast, actually "speedshift" quite often. but anyways more replys needed, but 11.99 isnt far fetched for a street car w/p.s. and ac and rear seats etc..... is it ????
 
I and many others have gone 13.20s with nothing more than a K&N, boost controller, and 2.5" pressbent exaust. If you cant break 13.2 with all the mods you have then 11.99 may be a bit far fetched. Concentrating on tuning is the best advice anyone can give you at this point. Throwing more parts on the car isnt going to make it go 11's... if it cant go 12's now.
 
What kind of timing are your seeing pushing 20 psi on a Big 16g with the stock 450's???

Bigger injectors and a SAFC will allow you to turn up the boost a bit more and will make sure your getting enough fuel so your timing isn't being pulled or anything...I think those 2 mods should help you out immensly...
 
I see you have a supra fuel pump listed. Do you have an aftermarket regulator such as the spoolin up one? The have been known to overpower the stock one. You should also get an EGT asap (I know you shouldn't tune with it, but it is better than nothing). The SAFC will help, but you are going to need a way to tune the car. Seat of the pants doesn't cut it. Hacking the MAF would also be high on my list. 11's are very possible, but you will realize how big of a role tuning plays. That is the #1 key to times.
 
highpsi-specifically what kind of tuning? s-afc and some dyno time, i know very little about tuning.

canadiantsi-on race gas i get virtually no knock, timing usually doesnt dip below 18-20 on race gas.


jet- i still have the stock fpr, and i have ordered a egt, o2 volts do see around .90-.92 most times and once in a while i see .94-.96 on 3rd-4th gears pulls on my datalogger, my maf is fully hacked including hollowing out the lower chamber all the way .


again im seeing tuning as the best answer, but is tuning simply an afc ? or is there something else im missing, i will have to buy a vce to 2wd dyno it , im willing to buy that if needed and an afc, i just want to be assured that i will see results, the car is slower than it should be right now, it would prob be doing 12.9x after i get my traction situation worked out, i e new 225/50r16 tires, my 60 footers should be better, im spinning somewhat on tires w/low tread.
 
Originally posted by rforres
ive read stock injectors and smic can go 12.0x's but i dunno if thats the exception or the rule.
I think that on 110 octane with some higher fuel pressure that would be the case but you if you are running on pump gas you will need AT LEAST 550s if not something bigger.

Originally posted by rforres
highpsi-specifically what kind of tuning? s-afc and some dyno time, i know very little about tuning.
I think there is at least 20-30 more HP left in your setup on pump gas. If you don’t know how to tune find a trusted DSM shop or local DSM club that can tune it for you. A wideband 02 is just the start you need a pocketlogger you need to see what type of timing/knock you are getting and a lot of other info.
 
i have a pocket logger, i can e mail some logs if anyones interested, thanks. there is a shop here that dyno's and tunes car's here, just not awd, so i need a vce.
 
Do you have an uprated clutch? I went from constant 13.3-4's to 12.87 on my VR4 by changing to a 5 puck clutch. What I thought was wheelspin off the line was actually the clutch slipping. Have a buddy watch you launch, that's how I picked up my problem. Interestingly enough, my 60' didn't improve alot, but my 1/8th was nearly .2 faster. Also my trap speeds were only about 1mph faster (running out of revs in fourth.)

No one has mentioned it, but have you pressure tested your intake? On the dyno, I picked up about 15hp at the wheels at the same boost level.

Mike.
 
yes i upgraded the clutch, ceramic 4 puck, i had it made locally, they have done a few others for me, seems to hold up very well, will spin in 2nd gear if u want it too, i have over 120 1/8 mile passes on it so far . no i have not pressure tested the intake, i saw somewhere how to use a bicycle pump ???
 
I originally tested by pulling off the comp. outlet hosing and pressurized from there to the manifold. However, I later found that the gasket on comp outlet itself was leaking. Replacing this made a hell of a difference. I found three leaks, the comp outlet gasket, the throttle body seals, and the BOV. I crushed the BOV and also made a new gasket to cover the reference hole in the base. A lot of people reckoned I'd have uncontrollable comp surge, but it only happens in fifth, at low revs(less than 3000), and you try to drive up a steep hill, with the throttle nailed. Change down to fourth, and bingo!, no surge. In fact, I drove around for days afterward, trying to induse(?) surge, but the above sitution was the only time I got it, and this could well be because of the larger comp wheel anyway.

Anyway, the best way is to block off the turbo comp inlet, and then pressure test the system. If you have a huge leak, you probably won't be able to pressurize it with a bike pump, a compressor is much better.

Mike.
 
The AFC is certainly the most cost effective way to tune. You cant rely on your 02 volts too much, especially with a '90. As mentioned above the best thing to do is use a wideband. However there are other methods to arrive at good air/fuel ratios... such as egts and spark plug reading. The wideband pretty much makes it a no brainer. It would probably be well worth the money to go to a dyno who has a wideband and make some pulls. A very cheap alternative to a VCE is find a viscous coupling and have it welded.
 
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