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SS Autochrome FMIC kit install w/ T25 & Automatic Tips

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sYnOnYx

15+ Year Contributor
270
1
Jan 24, 2005
Las Vegas, Nevada
Here is a short guide on howto install the SS Autochrome 2G FMIC Kit.

I couldnt find anywhere on here that showed how to properly install the kit using 1 of your stock pipes. this kit is made for a turbo that faces down to the ground, and well the T25 faces the passenger side. But no worries ill show you how to make it work. The way i set it up is currently running fine on my car and i boost leak tested to 20psi w/ no problems.

sorry for the crap quality pics, but i hope it helps.

heres the kit when it arrived at my office.

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First off :

Goto a local hose store and purchase the missing coupler and 2 Tbolt clamps.
The size is for the coupler is 2.75" and make sure to get 4ply silicone abour 4 inches long.
Get some assorted nuts and bolts ( you will need them ! )

Now that you have what you need its time to get started.

First off remove the bumper.

there are 2 screws on each side just behind the mud flap. the first screw is easy to access, the second one i reccomed taking off the signal marker to gain easier access.
Then of course there are 5 screws just below the hood latch. There are also 2 screws below the headlights that will need to be removed aswell. there are some assorted clips that will need to be removed aswell below the bumper.

now that you have the bumper off its time to remove more stuff.
Keep in mind i decided not to re-install my bumper support. ive done a few FMIC installs and always remove it. its just a big hunk of hard plastic anyways.

So i removed the bumper support and the brackets that attach it to the frame.

now you will need to cut a hole on the passenger side radiator support for the pipe from the fmic to flow through.

it should be done like this :

Thanks to "Slow 95 TSI" for the pic

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move the power steering cooler line to behind the T bar that hold the hood latch / bumper mounting assembly up.

now its time to mount this thang.

remove your overflow bottle and the bracket it sits on. we'll come back to this later.

line up the tabs on the intercooler to the the bolt holes for the fog light brackets that need to be removed aswell. mark where you need to make a hole on both sides. and drill holes. then proceed to mount the FMIC accordingly. make sure the pipe the comes off the FMIC passenger side does not touch the radiator.

when its mounted it should look like this :

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Now its time to remove the stock piping.

Remove all of the stock piping , throttle body elbow ( can be tricky ) , and the SMIC.

*automatic cars with trans cooler / cars with oil cooler*
unbolt the cooler and leave it hanging down for the moment. This will get remounted later on. after the piping is in.

start by installing the throttle body elbow.

******* Automatic cars *******
at this point , you must unbolt the trans dipstick tube and rotate it out of the way of the lower intercooler pipe. you may also have to move the harness around aswell to achive this. you will also have to make a new vaccum line going from the tube to the trans. it should look like this :

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dont worry , even with an aftermarket intake on , its easy to get in there and pull the dipstick out and check your fluid. secure it to something with a large zip tie or clamp so it doesnt move around.

Now the lower intercooler pipe should clear fine.

********

now install the lower pipe with the BOV already attached. you will need some matching nuts & bolts for this.

when thats done it should look like this :

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now that you have got that assembly put together its time to move onto the harder one.

take your stock pipe that goes from the turbo to the intercooler and cut it and attach it to the 90 degree pipe that came with your kit.

it should look like this :

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Continued :

YES this will run under the crossmember , but only by an inch or two. it is reccomened that you find another way to route this in the future. i plan on upgrading soon, so this will work for now.

you will have to remove the splashguard on the drivers side and cut it so the pipe from the intercooler will clear it. Attach the pipe onto the intercooler now. it maybe tricky but it will fit. reattach modified splashguard.

now its time to take the U shaped assembly you made and attach the blue coupler to the turbo. now allign everything correctly and attach the two pipes under the crossmember together. and tighten. then go back and tighten the clamp that attaches the coupler to the turbo. it should look like this when done :

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now you get the idea.

Its a smart idea now to boost leak test this. make sure all your vaccum lines are attached. i tested mine to 20psi, and found no leakes so i was good to go. but make sure to feel around every pipe coupler to make sure all is well and there are no leaks.

Now its time to bring back out your overflow bottle and bracket. you removed the SMIC.

Bend the bracket so that it will allign with a screw hole. these holes take the 12mm bolts that attached the SMIC. screw the bracket in with the bottle attached. and then extend the overflow bottle line and run it through the bit hole and then to your Thermostat housing.

when done it should look something close to this depending on where you mounted :

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now its time to re-mount the trans/oil cooler.

i used the far left hole on this bracket here :

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when done it should look like this and not be able to move much at all:

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(i plan on re-doing this in the future with a bigger cooler and mounted better)

now re-install your intake setup. and hook up your recirculation hose. ( mine wasnt on in picture )

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Now cut your bumper accordingly to fit , and reinstall it.

wait for it.....

....

...


...
 
Now look back and watch your DSM smile right back at ya !

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any questions feel free to PM me.
 
That's strange..... my friend's SSAC kit came with all the piping needed (I did the install). I didn't have to use any of the stock piping at all. I did however have to do some minimal trimming to the pipes but that took 2 minutes. Good article either way. Thanks for taking the time to do so.
 
Yep, definately get a larger transmission cooler and put it in the passenger side. Thats what I will be doing in the future. That way it doesnt have to be cocked vertical and the lines will be alot shorter. If only I myself had taken pictures when I installed mine.

Only thing I will say to some people. If your coupler is rubbing next to the radiator or where you cut the hole for the pipe to fit through on the passenger side. Weatherstripping works fantastic to line the exposed metal.
 
Yep, definately get a larger transmission cooler and put it in the passenger side. Thats what I will be doing in the future. That way it doesnt have to be cocked vertical and the lines will be alot shorter. If only I myself had taken pictures when I installed mine.

Only thing I will say to some people. If your coupler is rubbing next to the radiator or where you cut the hole for the pipe to fit through on the passenger side. Weatherstripping works fantastic to line the exposed metal.

you read my mind

im shopping for a tranny cooler now on summit racing.

i am gonna mount it on the passenger side. i should free up some space where the lines go on the drivers side. its pretty easy to make and install the new lines. just rubber hose.
 
That's strange..... my friend's SSAC kit came with all the piping needed (I did the install). I didn't have to use any of the stock piping at all. I did however have to do some minimal trimming to the pipes but that took 2 minutes. Good article either way. Thanks for taking the time to do so.

That being the case, could you describe how you routed your piping with the T-25 + SSAC kit?
Plus, probably 90% of the owners of this kit purchased it by other means than are currently available now. My kit too included all the t-clamps and black couplers. The majority, I'm betting, have blue couplers and are missing parts.
 
That being the case, could you describe how you routed your piping with the T-25 + SSAC kit?
Plus, probably 90% of the owners of this kit purchased it by other means than are currently available now. My kit too included all the t-clamps and black couplers. The majority, I'm betting, have blue couplers and are missing parts.

It's cause your kit came from me and the other kits are the generic ones floating around on ebay.

I made sure to get everything squared away with the manufacturer before I placed my order. The other ebay vendors have never seen or mounted this kit while I've had first hand experience with it.

There's nothing worse than ripping your car apart and realizing you need an extra coupler and a couple clamps, especially if the car is a daily driver :notgood:
 
That being the case, could you describe how you routed your piping with the T-25 + SSAC kit?
Plus, probably 90% of the owners of this kit purchased it by other means than are currently available now. My kit too included all the t-clamps and black couplers. The majority, I'm betting, have blue couplers and are missing parts.

I absolutely love the color of your car btw. Is that factory paint? If so whats the color name/code?
 
No worries I figured it out.

It's called instant panty dropper red.
 
It's cause your kit came from me and the other kits are the generic ones floating around on ebay.

I made sure to get everything squared away with the manufacturer before I placed my order. The other ebay vendors have never seen or mounted this kit while I've had first hand experience with it.

There's nothing worse than ripping your car apart and realizing you need an extra coupler and a couple clamps, especially if the car is a daily driver :notgood:

Exactly the reason I called you up to make my purchase. :thumb:

I absolutely love the color of your car btw. Is that factory paint? If so whats the color name/code?
I think that's cayenne red pearl
Yep!
No worries I figured it out.

It's called instant panty dropper red.

Thanks for the compliments, the sad part is that the dirt/salt in Reno, Nevada where the the original owner had the car, has taken it's toll on the some of the paint. But a weekly wash and monthly wax (probably too often, but meh) keeps the red deep and the finish glossy.
 
i might add , some may need a longer coupler for the up-pipe to throttle body elboy connection. mine kept popping off beacuse it wasnt big enough to reach over both beads. now i got a bigger one and its perfect.
 
I've been thinking about an upgrade, but when i go on their website, i think some prices are messed up. It says a "1g fmic kit" is 275 bucks... it says a "2g fmic kit" costs about 675. Does the 1g not include the actual core?

Maybe i'll just remount mine and keep planning towards meth injection for added cooling, I just like how theirs fills the WHOLE entire front of the cars opening in the bumper :) And mine is sitting a little crooked after it got into a fight with the sidewalk at the front of the parking spot one day :p
 
I've been thinking about an upgrade, but when i go on their website, i think some prices are messed up. It says a "1g fmic kit" is 275 bucks... it says a "2g fmic kit" costs about 675. Does the 1g not include the actual core?

Maybe i'll just remount mine and keep planning towards meth injection for added cooling, I just like how theirs fills the WHOLE entire front of the cars opening in the bumper :) And mine is sitting a little crooked after it got into a fight with the sidewalk at the front of the parking spot one day :p

eBay Motors: 95 - 99 2G DSM 4G63 Eclipse Talon Intercooler Kit FMIC (item 330198704770 end time Dec-23-07 07:15:58 PST)

:)

The ssauto kit is missing a coupler and a couple t bolts that this kit includes :thumb:
 
xmas time , either your company's buisness is booming , or really slow. no inbetween.
 
Just thought i would throw it out there that my kit is still holding up great and working very well !
 
also might add , ive replaced my 1G bov, it was too weak , even with only T25......... car runs alot better now.
 
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