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non turbo, blown motor?? What now!

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1GEnthus

Probationary Member
6
0
Apr 2, 2005
beaufort, South Carolina
I just blew the motor on my 1993 non turbo talon. I am detirmined to fix it because i love the car. It is a stock motor and interior is in great shape. The car ran great until a hole blew through the block. I need recomendations from DSMer's. I do not want to blow my paycheck but would like some gains. Somewhare around 185-200 horses. I also dont want nitrous. Any help and idea would be great. Thanks.

Oh yeah, And Im not selling it and buying a TSI, GSX. Thanks
 
You don't want to run Nitrous. Are you opposed to a turbo swap? You can get a complete turbo long block from ebay including exhaust mani and often times the turbo for under $700. W/ a turbo ecu and few wires: BAM, 200 horsepower (before the free mods).
 
Blow your paycheck on a turbo swap and ftw!!! Now is the time! if you boost it, she will run! Seriously though, for your power goals and budget you have to boost it. Buy a used 4G63T, do the swap, call it a day. with a few bolt ons, you'll be close to 200whp in no time.
 
There is a 93 turbo automatic motor I can get for $400. Is it worth it because I will still need a new trany and is it true that the turbo is smaller? Also can I use an ECU from an auto on a manual? The car is in a junk yard so i dont even know if the motor is good.


Pretty much what im asking is if its worth pulling an automatic motor, turbo and ecu for $400, or am I just waisting time?
 
I think the turbo autos, only have 390cc injectors instead of 450's and a smaller 13G turbo that runs at 7psi. I mean fir 400$ it is not bad but you are going to need to spend more money on mods to get you to your goal.

Find a set up out of a m/t car that has the 450's and 14b already on it, bump the boost up to 13-14psi, do the freebie mods and some basica mods and for less than a grand you have you 200HP probably at the wheels. Just keep in mind you stock n/t clutch and tranny and the stress you will put it under
 
On a positive note. . .

1. An automatic long block probably hasn't been abused as much as a typical 5 speed block.
2. You can sell the injectors and turbo on ebay.
3. A 13G flows 360 cfm (375 choke) at 20 degrees Celcius. This equates to 27 lbs/min. plenty for your 200 hp goal. The turbine should flow enough for this.
4. A turbo can run at any boost you want (w/in the flow limits of the compressor and fuel). not 7 psi.
5. A stock sidemount would be fine for your goal and a 13G.
6. 390cc injectors will keep up fine w/ your goal even at a stock rich tune. Lean her out a bit (11.5:1) and you should eak out 270+ hp w/ those.

Again you can always unload a good set of 350+cc injectors and a good 200whp turbo on ebay . . .

I don't know if your stock fuel pump is the same as a turbo car. If it is i'd rewire it just for safety sake.
 
Suppose you are going to give me shit for not mentioning that 7psi is the "stock" boost level, oops:notgood:

Woe, woe! It just looked liked to me that you were stating that one was limited to the stock boost. I really didn't want/mean to come across as 'giving you sh**'. You stated the cons and I stated the pros. It's all working out for the original poster.:thumb:

A 14B flows 490 cfm at 20 degrees C inlet or 37 lbs/min. This equates to over 375 hpOMG . Of course the stock 6cm^2 housing is a 'clamp in the hose'. 420-430 max cfm would be a realistic max for a stock turbine housing and for reliability (around 340hp). 450s flow 15% more fuel.

Absolutely, a 14B and 450s would be better. The 14B is the ultimate underrated overachiever!

What he's considering is enough for his goal.




1GEnthus said:
Also can I use an ECU from an auto on a manual?
ECU's have to stay w/ injector sizes. But that's about it. A 390cc injector automatic ecu has to stay w/ the 390cc injectors. even if swapping all of it into a manual. I don't think the ecu cares whether or not you're shifting or the tranny is.
 
so pretty much.... The trany doesnt matter. As long as I have the injectors to match the ecu i can run these parts? And the turbos are interchangable so they dont matter?
Im assuming there will just be some tuning to do.


So a recomendation would be to buy this junk motor use the block, turbo, ecu, injecters and just get a new trany or would it be ok if I kept my trany and just got a better clutch?
 
so pretty much.... The trany doesnt matter. As long as I have the injectors to match the ecu i can run these parts? And the turbos are interchangable so they dont matter?
Im assuming there will just be some tuning to do.
Bolt on and go. Raising just the boost will likely net you the results you're looking for. although tunign will insure your goal.

So a recomendation would be to buy this junk motor use the block, turbo, ecu, injecters and just get a new trany or would it be ok if I kept my trany and just got a better clutch?
Waht is the stock n/a tranny capable of? this will answer that question. Also, will you be satisfied (and for how long) w/ such a level of performance? After all, once you have a turbo setup, it becomes MUCH easier/affordable to upgrade.
 
LOL the first thing i could think was...why is this in this section of the forum? =P but then again i'm just giving you shit.

you're tranny will hold out a while...but it varies car to car...but once you start putting down good power usually the stock tranny will start to slip...
 
Yeah its not in the right forum I guess but i knew someone would help. Thanks for the help.
 
Here's some tips in a quick breakdown:

- If you are going to run a 14b at stock boost levels, the n/t transmission is FINE. For the BEST solution, run an AWD flywheel with a turbo clutch.

- Do NOT NOT NOT run a turbo FWD flywheel as it has a larger diameter and will NOT work.

- If you ever plan on running any real boost levels above factory specs, read this thread before you decide ANYTHING: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145569
 
Okay you can use the at ecu no problem there. Your tranny is fine also just get an upgraded clutch. You can use your flywheel also. Swapping in to turbo motor is just about as easy as swapping in another n/t motor just make sure you get all the electronics to go with the swap. You'll need the bcs, knock sensor, injector resistor pack, turbo mas, knock sensor which should come with the engien anyway, and the fuel pressure sol. Some people will say you don't need the boost control sol. (bcs) becasue you can run a manual boost controler and not need it or the fuel pressure sol. Even if you don't have the vacum lines running to these to you still have to have them hooked to the wiring because you can get a check engine light if they are unhooked. Also you need to run the corrosponding wires for the extra electricles back to the ecu and wire in the resistor pack which all isn't hard. If you need help just pm me.
 
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