OPINIONS | BSEK using non-Mitsu stub shaft

[dr1665]

Hey all.

This could quite possibly be the first time I've ever posted in this area of DSMtuners, so bear with me. I've got my donor motor for the rally car on a stand in the garage all ready to go into the car when I decide I was a lazy f*ck when I left the balance shafts in the engine. Now I want them out.

I've read the VFAQ BSEK write-up, got it printed out for a hands-on reference as I'm yanking stuff of the bottom end. I've also spent some time reading up on old threads about various BSEKs - methodology, concepts, pictures, and arguments, but there's one question still on my mind that I was unable to spot in the research portion of this evening's thread.

The VFAQ write-up specifies the MD098626 stub shaft from the 1.6L Mirage and mentions that, in some kits, "The stub shaft doesn't have an oiling groove in it like the Mirage stub shaft. It is better (and an easier install) to use the factory parts if you can get them (they are often out of stock)."

Now, Parts Dinosaur is local to me. His price is under $20. He offers a kit. Only thing is, his kit comes with the solid shaft sans oiling groove. I could not find anything discussing this difference. Can anyone offer, based on personal experience, any information pertaining to why the solid shaft might make this install more difficult? I'm going to assume the shaft spins and, thus, the lack of the oiling groove could contribute to accelerated wear, but this motor has over 200,000 miles on it and came out of a GS-T that had a fire in the engine bay after it was shut off, so I'm not building my last 4G63T.

Your opinions and comments are appreciated. Captain Half-Ass needs his beater running so he can get the Talon in the garage for a month of R&R!

Points will be awarded for helpful information.

 

[gsxtacy]

Hey B....

Lemme dig up my old thread.....

 

[BoostedTalonTS]

Having been there and done that in my OE 1G 7-bolt (even down to the PartsDinosaur's BSEK), I can say that:

A) I didn't notice any difference between the installation being "easier/harder" when I removed the OE BS and installed the PD's BSEK.

B) ~8k later, I didn't notice any unusual wearing of the solid stub shaft, its shaft seal, or its drive/driven gear. -Even when compared to the OE cover / BS.

While I was doing mine, I also replaced the whole front cover/oil pump, so I still have the OE front cover/BS assemblies to compare both as around 8k later, I ended up going with a 6-bolt stroker conversion. -I'll snap some pics, if need be. BTW, I'll be parting out the OE 7-bolt (and it's ~8k front cover w/RBSEK) if anyone's interested

IMO, the BEST way for removing the BS would be to have the OE shaft ground down to a smooth shaft, thus supporting it from bolth ends of the shaft, rather then just by the drive gear / shaft seal & oil pump gear. -But I'm still running a solid stub shaft in the new motor.

NOTE: I was lazy too... I only removed the rear shaft, leaving the front shaft in, minus the belt (engine was still in the car).

 

[dr1665]

Thanks TS and Kelly. I'm gonna grab some food, change into the scrubs, and begin surgery in a bit. I don't have the kit yet, but I bet I can make some progress towards getting those bastids out, eh?

 

[steel_3d]

Well now that you bring it up.... I'm looking at both versions of the stub shaft in front of me, and I have to say the aftermarket one looks scary. It's like a zinc or aluminum coated piece of shit, versus the nicely machined and heat treated factory one. What's scarier, is that the aftermarket one is almost a thousandth of an inch larger in diameter! It seems to be a bit out of round too. On a bearing diameter that small, that must make a huge difference. The oiling groove is necessary to let oil pass to the large gear's shaft, I wouldn't wanna give that up either.

Personally, I wouldn't use the aftermarket one. I asked the guy on ebay to pop in the mitsu one for free, and he did. You might get lucky too. Reading the horror stories doesn't help the case of the aftermarket stub shaft either. Just get the one from the dealer and sleep a bit easier at night. I've never had a problem ordering it, it costs maybe 6 bucks.

Here's a pic:

<a href="http://i9.tinypic.com/344xe1c.jpg"><img src="http://i9.tinypic.com/344xe1c.jpg" width=50%></a>

 

[steve]

I figured that the 1.6L stub shaft had factory testing behind it where the various aftermarket parts were counting on me to test it, so I put the OEM stub shaft in.

Steve

 

[SleeperG]

Its not like the factory shaft will set you back a chunk of change.
its only 12 bucks at SlowBoy

i'm sure a lot of people have had luck with the aftermarket ones.
but I woudl rather pay the 12 bucks for the OEM one; if only for the peace of mind.

but outside of the confidence and satisfaction you get from buying original equipment manufacturer parts for the quality..... Its quite clear the the oem shaft is of better design and material...


12 bucks man.

 

[dr1665]

12 bucks man.

Word.

Fast. Cheap. Right. Pick two kinda deal, I guess.

PartsDino could get it to me cheap and fast. (As in tomorrow morning.) But that shaft just didn't sit well with me.

Thanks guys. Points all around!

 

[dr1665]

Okay. Here's an interesting question. Do any of you guys have a trick to breaking the bolts loose on those pullies? I left the tBelt on and hit the bolts with some PB prior to trying to break them loose, but I got bupkis. I soaked the bolts really good last night and hope they're more cooperative tonight when I get home, but I was curious as to what suggestions, if any, you vets might have.

Thanks.

 

[gsxtacy]

sorry I am so late getting back to this topic....I found that old thread I spoke of:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207916

Haven't heard from you in a while dr1665...is it about breathe life again?



been kickin it...you know me

BTW, I like whacking the rear BS off and welding it cause you know it was a working piece before hand...no speculation like "With a Oil Groove or Without".....and blocking off the oil gallies with a BS bearing IS the best method... IF your front bs didn't already turn the bearing and wallow out the journal....I did it cause I felt crafty and didn't want to buy the bearings.

 

[dr1665]

sorry I am so late getting back to this topic....I found that old thread I spoke of:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207916

Haven't heard from you in a while dr1665...is it about breathe life again?



been kickin it...you know me

Thanks for the link, bro. I'm looking to have her running within six weeks. I think I'm gonna stick with the kit, rather than take a blade to anything (despite the cost issue). I don't have a lot of high hopes for this engine to be the end-all for this car, so easy is as easy does, ya know?

I'll drop you an email with some more info.

Thanks again for the help everyone.