Shutter Box, how the hell.....?

[Libila]

I just want to know how a shutter box works. It sounds like a cool mod. I mean who wouldnt want to be able to build boost in neutral?? Would it be ok for a daily driver?

 

[Turbo Guru]

It's called a "stutter box" (as in speach impediment) and it is not recommended for a daily driver because you WILL break things on an otherwise stock vehicle.

short answer
A typical 2-step launching device (another name for it) will drop ignition on different cylinders every rotation to limit the revs to a user preset limit in order to control launch rpm. This also will cause a turbocharged car to build boost in neutral due to the rapid cycling of the RPMs.

Joe

ps- If you need further explaination post your question here, I am sure someone will be happy to pick up where I left off.

 

[insane147]

i also have mine hooked up so that i dont lift off the gas pedal between shifts, so i dont blow my boost out the BOV.

 

[Libila]

O I see. Ill just get a L1R turbo so I can have fast spool.

 

[jw]

A fast spooling turbo and "no lift shift" are two different things.

 

[DrZiplok]

Originally posted by Turbo Guru
It's called a "stutter box" (as in speach impediment) and it is not recommended for a daily driver because you WILL break things on an otherwise stock vehicle.

short answer
A typical 2-step launching device (another name for it) will drop ignition on different cylinders every rotation to limit the revs to a user preset limit in order to control launch rpm. This also will cause a turbocharged car to build boost in neutral due to the rapid cycling of the RPMs.

Would you (or someone else) mind expanding on the "WILL break things" comment?

Are we talking "if used abusively" here, or is there something that makes it fundamentally impossible to use the stutterbox without causing major damage to the stock driveline?

 

[Turbo Guru]

Originally posted by DrZiplok
Would you (or someone else) mind expanding on the "WILL break things" comment?

Are we talking "if used abusively" here, or is there something that makes it fundamentally impossible to use the stutterbox without causing major damage to the stock driveline?

The stock driveline is brittle as it is, (mainly the stock 2 spider center differential; but there are other weak links as well,) and can be broken by doing launches without a stutter box (ie- no boost leaving the line.)

If you use a stutter box to launch you will be launching with boost and have significantly more HP/TQ being directed thru the already brittle stock driveline. Too much power thru the stock driveline while launching = broken parts.

Joe

 

[Sed]

the stutter box is the mod that makes the popping sound right??????

 

[MNGSX]

This is one mod which is a how it is used or driven mod.

The RPM can be set right at the same launch point as a non stutter box launch.

Even w/o a stutter box I'm at atleast 3500 before I let that clutch out. In fact most times 3800.

You could concievably break less stuff because it always is at the same set point. So now you can concentrate on slipping the clutch the same way every time.

If you truley know how to drive one of these cars you should'nt break anything even with alot more HP down low than stock.

Just dont send too much of it the transmisions way at once. Slip the clutch and don't dump it. Fry that clutch before the transmission.

 

[DSMJim]

I use my studder box (two step I call it) on the street racing guys all the time and at the track. I have it set to 5500 and build around 8psi of boost in neutral and the car comes out pretty hard like that.

You will break stuff if your a dummy with it, but get used to what to do and not to do and how to work the clutch and you'll be ok. My two step is via my MSD DIS-2.

 

[44pirate]

Originally posted by DSMJim
I use my studder box (two step I call it) on the street racing guys all the time and at the track. I have it set to 5500 and build around 8psi of boost in neutral and the car comes out pretty hard like that.

You will break stuff if your a dummy with it, but get used to what to do and not to do and how to work the clutch and you'll be ok. My two step is via my MSD DIS-2.

I agree

 

[Cirus_93TSI]

the stock driveline isnt that brittle, i launch my car at 5000 whenever im seriously racing somebody and it launches hard and smooth, i can understand how building boost in neutral before launching would add more stress but i think when driven sensiably it wouldnt break things too easily

now for some questions, how can i put one in my car? can i get my 1g ecu socketed for eprom and get the tmo chip(im not sure if u can get my 1g ecu socketed)? and if not how else can i get a stutterbox?

 

[44pirate]

Get a MSD DIS 2 box.
http://www.msdignition.com/

 

[brads]

Originally posted by 44pirate
Get a MSD DIS 2 box.
http://www.msdignition.com/

The TMO chip, or the pirated version, would be a better way to get a stutter box for a 1G. Adding a DIS-2 is adding a lot of unneccesary hardware, require lots more cutting into the harness. The chip will give you a stutter box, and loads of other more useful features. You should be able to pick up a socketable 1G ECU(if yours can't be socketed) for cheap, and the TMO clone chip for <$100. The MSD is gonna run you $250-$300. Easy choice(Hint: the answer is not MSD).

Brad

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Originally posted by Sed
the stutter box is the mod that makes the popping sound right??????

To put it in one word:


WANANANANANANANANANANANANANA and then PSSSSSSHHHH!

 

[peregrine]

Originally posted by Turbo Guru
It's called a "stutter box" (as in speach impediment) and it is not recommended for a daily driver because you WILL break things on an otherwise stock vehicle.

thats funny, i think that if you use a decent clutch and not too sticky tires you can use the stutter box all day long. ive never had one problem with mine. ever. never broken a driveline part.

 

[44pirate]

The MSD allows you to adjust by 250rpm increments Also lets you run at a wider spark gap. The TMO only adjusts at 500rpm increments and you also need a socketed ECU for TMO.

 

[Cirus_93TSI]

id rather get my ecu socketed and get the tmo chip then get a whole expansive msd system put into my car, my only question is how do i know if u can get my ecu socketed or not? rob at extreme motorsports told me they would socket an ecu for 30 bucks, all i need to know is if mine can be socketed or not? how do i tell if it can be?

 

[brads]

Originally posted by 44pirate
The MSD allows you to adjust by 250rpm increments Also lets you run at a wider spark gap.

Don't forget it also lets you push your car home when it fails. And it lets you get under the hood soldering all sorts of wires in. And the MSD also lets you continue to feel the joy of fuel cut, the stock rev limit, and many other things that the TMO chip removes.

Originally posted by 44pirate
The TMO only adjusts at 500rpm increments and you also need a socketed ECU for TMO.

Still a better deal. socketed ECUs arent nearly as much as an MSD DIS-2, and the TMO clone chips are going for under $100.

Brad

 

[44pirate]

You like TMO then you go.
ECU is 200-300
Chip is 100.
SO far I"ve gotten a 12.7 with mine.
I like it.
I guess to each his own.
No trouble since I installed it. 1yr.

 

[loreak]

To put it in one word:


WANANANANANANANANANANANANANA and then PSSSSSSHHHH!

more like WANANANANANANNANAN and then OWNED haha

 

[44pirate]

Originally posted by brads


The TMO chip, or the pirated version, would be a better way to get a stutter box for a 1G. Adding a DIS-2 is adding a lot of unneccesary hardware, require lots more cutting into the harness. The chip will give you a stutter box, and loads of other more useful features. You should be able to pick up a socketable 1G ECU(if yours can't be socketed) for cheap, and the TMO clone chip for <$100. The MSD is gonna run you $250-$300. Easy choice(Hint: the answer is not MSD).

Brad

Original poster has a 2g

 

[irn__man]

Well don't leave DSMLink out of the equation.

-Fuel Control
-Timing Control
-DataLogger
-StutterBox
-Nitrous Contol
-NLTS
-And a Bunch of other goodies

$200 for 95 E-Prom ECU
$600 for Software & Chip
Total = $800

Not bad for replacement of a $300 S-AFC, $250 Pocketlogger Setup, and a $300 MSD-DIS.

Just another OPTION

iron

 

[brads]

Originally posted by 44pirate
You like TMO then you go.
ECU is 200-300
Chip is 100.
SO far I"ve gotten a 12.7 with mine.
I like it.
I guess to each his own.
No trouble since I installed it. 1yr.

Didn't even notice you were talking 2G til you said the ECU price. DSMLink on a 2G gives you the better increments on the launch limiter than the MSD. And you are assuming people don't have EPROM ECU. I had one stock, makes things much cheaper. I think 1G EPROM ECUs are cheaper, and lots more people have them stock.

The MSD functions fine as a launch limiter, but it all comes down to whether you want to spend $300 for something that is pretty much just a limiter, or spend around, and get lots of other things taken care of at the same time.

I ran a 12.4 with all stock ignition stuff(except bpr-7es plugs), and I know plenty of other people going faster on all stock stuff, so you don't NEED it for that. I'd take the chip features every time over a slightly higher output spark.

Good to hear that yours is lasting that long. I know quite a few people who have had an MSD on for a short period of time, and it didnt last. Neither did the replacement. Is yours the standard version, or the HO version?

Brad

 

[brads]

Originally posted by 44pirate


Original poster has a 2g

Good catch, he's got a 95, so that means he probably wouldnt have to buy an EPROM ECU to do either the TMO or DSMLink setup. Makes it an even more easy choice.

Brad