JM FAB Intake Manifold

[Black94DSM]

I just got my new JM FAB Intake Manifold in and I was wondering if what im dealing with is a common problem.

The Intake sits really low ( I already knew this ). It sits so low that my t-body now sits on top of my shifter cables. Is this normal ?

Also it looks like the connecter for the TPS is now way to short, do I just use regular wire to extend the harness or is there a special wire to do this. I know its a dumb question, but better to be safe than sorry.

I was thinking about doing the FIAV block off because if I were to hook up the coolant lines they are super long because of the bend i would have to make. If I bent it to tight it will kink.

Ill post pics when I get a chance. For now im looking for sugguestions/info on how you guys with this manifold delt with it.

If you can could you post up a pic of your set up and how you did it.



Thanks,

Bob

 

[talon96tsi]

Go ahead and block off the fiav, I've had mine blocked off for 6 monthes now with no problems. Many people block it off, there is a good site on how to do it yourself that I will try to find, or you could make/buy a plate.

If I can find my digi camera tonight when i get off work ill try and snap a pic of how I did it.

 

[diambo4life]

-I lengthened the TPS hookup just with ordinary electrical wire.
-Yes, it sits lower and the cables will lightly touch the T/B. I don't run any coolant lines to the T/B so that wasn't really a "problem."

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[Black94DSM]

Here is a picture of mine as it sits. You can see that I obviously need to redo the t-body elbow as that was set up for the stock manifold. It will need to come out quite a bit from the t-body and go towards the shock tower more now, because if not its going to run into my shifer cable brackets.

Thanks for posting up, its nice to see what others do so I can get an idea of how i want to route my pipes.

I see that you have a nt throttle body, so its a little easier to deal with. Mine is still the turbo throttle body.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/Black94TSi/Talon/100_3347.jpg

 

[oztofrdm]

-I lengthened the TPS hookup just with ordinary electrical wire.
-Yes, it sits lower and the cables will lightly touch the T/B. I don't run any coolant lines to the T/B so that wasn't really a "problem."

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Im confused what is going on with the BOV dump tube going to no where???

 

[diambo4life]

Bob (Blak94)...I do have a turbo T/B - I just have a stubby T/B elbow. Modified it to reroute my UICP.

I have 2 1g BOV's (gus modded.) Can not be seen in the picture. The BOV dumptube goes to one of the BOV that operates like stock (controlled by Dejon solenoid.) The other one is permanently in "race mod" so it never opens when I'm just driving regularly on the street. The one connected to the dump tube does open though, that's why it's re-routed to kill the noise. Thought I would explain the "mystery."

 

[dnhieu]

Bob (Blak94)...I do have a turbo T/B - I just have a stubby T/B elbow. Modified it to reroute my UICP.

I have 2 1g BOV's (gus modded.) Can not be seen in the picture. The BOV dumptube goes to one of the BOV that operates like stock (controlled by Dejon solenoid.) The other one is permanently in "race mod" so it never opens when I'm just driving regularly on the street. The one connected to the dump tube does open though, that's why it's re-routed to kill the noise. Thought I would explain the "mystery."

damn your a genious. i dunno if your recirculating for the sleeper thing OR you just dont like the noise of a bov but i doubt anyone would look past your car....

 

[DSM90AWD]

Here's mine, and yes the throttle body does sit on the shift cables. But as long as you have some plastic loom protector on the cables (to prevent cuts from rub) and they are not "kinked", should have not issues with shifting (at least in my case).

Guess I was also lucky as the '90 TB had ample length TB sensor wire length so did not have to modify. Though I have a bored out '91 I'm saving for a rainy day to install

Luckily I had a "hump" hose at the inlet to my FMIC as allowed me to use my UIP unmodified for the time being.

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[Black94DSM]

Bob (Blak94)...I do have a turbo T/B - I just have a stubby T/B elbow. Modified it to reroute my UICP.

I like the idea of that, becuase then I can take off the upper pipeing a little easier. I might just have to copy that.


Keep posting up pictures guys, your really helping me.

 

[Black94DSM]

I started the car up the other day with the new manifold and holy cow is this thing loud. I can hear valves clank left and right. Is that normal ? I would think it is since its sheetmetal.

 

[RavenX]

I don't know if that is normal. But with mine i can hear the air going through the manifold at idle. When i first installed it i thought i had a massive leak .

 

[Coup D E'Tat]

Yea, they're super loud. Sounds nuts

 

[DSM90AWD]

I don't know if that is normal. But with mine i can hear the air going through the manifold at idle. When i first installed it i thought i had a massive leak .

Actually mine did have a sizable air leak as the flange was not quite straight. I'd definitely suggest a quick pressure test at the TB elbow before finishing up as I had to use a liberal amount of Copper RTV on the D/S end of the flange to get it to seal using the metal Mitsu gasket.

But, yea, under boost, that thing really let you hear the air rushing in

 

[RavenX]

Actually mine did have a sizable air leak as the flange was not quite straight. I'd definitely suggest a quick pressure test at the TB elbow before finishing up as I had to use a liberal amount of Copper RTV on the D/S end of the flange to get it to seal using the metal Mitsu gasket.

But, yea, under boost, that thing really let you hear the air rushing in

Yeah trust me after i heard that i whipped out the air compressor to make sure everything was ok .

 

[Black94DSM]

I have another question. There is a one way valve in the brake booster hose going to the intake manifold.

My old line dont make it to well to the manifold now, and i was going to get a new line. Where do i get a new valve at for the brake booster?

 

[SleeperG]

I have another question. There is a one way valve in the brake booster hose going to the intake manifold.

My old line dont make it to well to the manifold now, and i was going to get a new line. Where do i get a new valve at for the brake booster?

if you can get to the yard, every car out there with power brakes has that check valve in the brake booster line.
a lot of other manufacturers have their's spliced inline and the hose just clamps onto it(you can of course visibly see the check valve) i think honda does their's that way, jsut grab one of those put it in your pocket and leave .




I just wanted to step in and ask

1. what kind of vacuum are you guys seeing once up to operating temperature and at idle?

And for you street going guys

2. How is your part throttle bottom end after the install of this manni?(might mention yoru compression ratio for reference)
are you lugging around in traffic?

 

[Black94DSM]

Ok so this valve on our cars are not specific ? Where could I find one at that I can just go hose clamp to hose clamp, besides the Junk Yard.

 

[SleeperG]

Ok so this valve on our cars are not specific ? Where could I find one at that I can just go hose clamp to hose clamp, besides the Junk Yard.

i know any of the ones at the junk yard are going to be oem quality,
you shoudl probably be able to get one at any parts store. they might have it in the little red HELP! boxes.. i've seen some pretty random things in there.

as far as it being non specific, pretty much its just a check valve, thats all there is to it.
just have to be positive you have it oriented in the proper direction.

worst case,
you could get a barb coupler,
cut your original booster line 2-3 inches from the check valve on both sides,
and join your original check valve into your new booster line

 

[Black94DSM]

worst case,
you could get a barb coupler,
cut your original booster line 2-3 inches from the check valve on both sides,
and join your original check valve into your new booster line

Bingo, I'm just going to do that. It's the easiest way and I should have that laying around to. Thanks man.

 

[Coup D E'Tat]

Bob,

I did what the above poster did, but instead of splicing it in, I bought some fuel hose that was the same size, and just crammed the check valve back into the new line. This is not easy to do, but can be done.

Jesse

 

[AL92]

I installed a 1g jm fab in my 2g.I took out cruise control and put in non cruise cable.I bought size 51 battery or 51R forget which is is.I had to move my brake reservoir over a bit and now my reservoir lines are pinched so have to just cut the lines shorter I think.
The brakes are still working but maybe not as good as they should cause of that.Also its pretty hard since the 1g manifold is so long to access anything under the manifold.I moved my coilpack onto the top of it but should have also moved my power transistor to the firewall. When I take out intake to drill out the nitrous bungs then will do some more cleanup.I have my wiring harness under it as it looked cleaner.
Should have maybe had the nitrous bungs welded on underneath but that would make it hard to change out jets it looks like.
I used a plastic type magnus intake gasket.I checked my system for leaks at buddies shop with smoke tester.That thing worked great.
I am not sure how much diff the jm fab made in performance since I installed pretty much everything in my sig 2.4,fp3065,jm etc all at same time. I do not have that much off boost torque.Its ok but pretty sure the intake and my stage 3 cams hurt the bottom a bit. Past 5000 or so the cams and intake and combo seem to pull hard to redline which is around 7500 to 8000 max since don't want to push my 2.4 past 8000.
I do think maybe should have gone to a cyclone manifold but you don't really need that much more torque down low with a 2.4 anyway.I can downshift and get quick spoolup anyway so not a huge deal.

 

[Black94DSM]

Finially got my pipe redone. Here is the new upper pipe for the JM Fab set up.

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[project_tsi]

Your elbow looks great Bob. I just did my JMF intake install this week and it it finally finished up. I was going for a clean install so I extended my injector, TPS, and CAS wires and ran the large wiring loom under the SMIM. I was also able to keep my FIAV in working order. I actually bent the water pipe a bit so it angled the hose more toward the T-body so ther is no kinking. I was also able to keep the battery in the engine bay like Diambo4Life. With removing the carb canister and a bit of trimming on a battery tray, I was able to stuff a larger then OEM sized Optima Red Top dual post battery down there. I have about 1.5" of clearance from the top of the battery to the bottom of the elbow. My elbow was at a good horizontal angle, but needed to be raised almost 2 inches. I cut the elbow right at the flange and re-welded it. I relocated the coil pack to the motor mount and also mounted the PTM to the Timing cover. Nice and pretty clean IMO.

 

[Black94DSM]

Looks awsome Dan!

Is there any way you can take a pic of how you have your FIAV lines routed ?

The way mine are is the line coming from the water pipe is looped pretty badly just so it doent kink. You can see this in the last pic I posted.

 

[project_tsi]

As you can see in my last pic, the line for the FIAV comming off the T-stat housing was not a problem. The other line just loops over the heater hose and into the T-body. Like I mentioned above, I bent the outlet tab on the water pipe over a bit. This way I could run this short hose that I did and not have it kink.