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Bolt-on Tech: 4G63 intake, exhaust, intake manifold, ignition, fuel system, cooling, etc.

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Old 07-23-2006, 08:42 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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Correct way to wire battery cutoff switch.


I'm wondering what is the correct way to hook up this kill switch. I mounted the batt in the rear and I can't come up with a solid answer. The instruction sheet that came with the switch states to run the switch with the engine/body ground, but I believe I read that NHRA rules require it to be in the positive cable. I don't know for sure and need a answer.

Help me out and any other good tips would be appreciated, like is another cable needed to feed the alt to the battery directly or is just the one cable fine?

Thanks all.



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Old 07-23-2006, 08:54 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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From the NHRA rulebook:

Quote:
8.4 MASTER CUTOFF
Mandatory when battery is relocated, or as outlined in Class Requirements. An electrical power cutoff switch (one only) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from outside the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The external control switch for this cutoff switch will be clearly indicated by a red flash inside a white-edged blue triangle with a base of at least 12 cm (see drawing 25). The positions must be clearly indicated with the word "OFF". If switch is "push/pull" type, push must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, pull to turn it on. Any rods or cables used to activate the switch must be minimum 1/8-inch (3.2 mm) diameter. Plastic or keyed switches prohibited. Switches and/or controls must be located behind rear wheels on rear engine dragsters.
You also have to wire the alternator directly to the battery to make everything work properly.
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:21 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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Thank you for the NHRA info. What is the correct way to wire the fuse inline with the batt and switch? Does it go Battery-fuse-switch-to engine, or Battery-switch-fuse-to engine?


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Old 07-24-2006, 05:21 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by project_tsi
Thank you for the NHRA info. What is the correct way to wire the fuse inline with the batt and switch? Does it go Battery-fuse-switch-to engine, or Battery-switch-fuse-to engine?

Battery-fuse-switch-engine. You want the fuse no more than 18 inches from the battery positive

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Old 07-24-2006, 05:56 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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Dan, be sure to take plenty of pics of the install so I can copy you


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Old 07-26-2006, 08:10 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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Ok well what is the exact correct way to run the wire from the alt? Does it go directly to the batt, or to one of the posts on the switch, or what? And what size inline fuse? I thought it would have to be ran to the switch to cut power to the alt, if not, the car would still run since the alt can run the car by itself.

OH heres a few pics so far. Let me know if anything looks wrong. I will be adding a box, just not right now.
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Old 07-26-2006, 02:26 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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Dan, I believe you're going to need a box too.


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Old 07-26-2006, 02:34 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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I actually went with a 200amp circuit breaker. It's wired from the Battery > Switch > Breaker > Fuseblock under the hood > Starter/Accessories.

I haven't yet wired the Alternator shutoff switch from Painless that I bought a while back. I'm lazy and didn't feel like running another set of wires through the car. But, when I last went the drag strip, the car shut off completely with just the batter switch - the alternator didn't keep the car running.

One word of advice - try to modify your mounting bolts for the battery so that you can swap the battery by yourself. I used to have mine setup the way you do and had a hell of a time changing out a battery. It's tough to get it bolted down with one person with the bolts hanging free.


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Old 07-26-2006, 02:53 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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You run the positive cable to the switch, not the negative.

To be nhra "legal", first, you need to mount the battery in a sealed box that has a vent exiting the outside of the car. You also need to run the altenator charge wire to the battery side of the switch or directly to the positive terminal of the battery. When wired properly, the car should turn off when the switch is turned off. If the alternator is feeding between the switch and the engine, it will still run even if the switch is turned off. You also need to clearly label the switch "on" and "off" or it wont pass tech.

As far as the fuse, I run a 100 amp fuse on the engine side of the switch and then another 100 amp fuse under the hood. The most important fuse would be the underhood fuse and the other at the switch is just insurance in case the cable grounds out somewhere between the underhood fuse and shutoff switch. If you need any more info, let me know. I would snap a couple of pics for you but my car is currently nowhere near me right now.

And one more thing, I actually ran a new 8 gauge wire directly from the charge terminal of the alternator, through an 80 amp fuse, and then to the battery side of the shutoff switch.

edit: the battery also need to be secured by 2- 3/8" minimum bolts(or allthread) through the framerail. By the looks of the picture, I assume that is what you did.
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:05 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ludachris
I haven't yet wired the Alternator shutoff switch from Painless that I bought a while back.
Chris, any chance you still have that Painless part number?


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Old 07-26-2006, 07:03 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92awddsm
You run the positive cable to the switch, not the negative.
It is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 92awddsm
To be nhra "legal", first, you need to mount the battery in a sealed box that has a vent exiting the outside of the car. You also need to run the altenator charge wire to the battery side of the switch or directly to the positive terminal of the battery. When wired properly, the car should turn off when the switch is turned off. If the alternator is feeding between the switch and the engine, it will still run even if the switch is turned off. You also need to clearly label the switch "on" and "off" or it wont pass tech.
I am going to add a box like my previous post stated, I just didn't want to do it right now. The on/off is also clearly labeled.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 92awddsm
edit: the battery also need to be secured by 2- 3/8" minimum bolts(or allthread) through the framerail. By the looks of the picture, I assume that is what you did.
Yes it is. I have 4 bolts holding the base down.


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Old 07-27-2006, 07:58 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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In this picture I'm assuming the switch is wired after the fuse or breaker? The positive that close to ground freaks me out. Ever since my buddy wired up his stereo with the fuse closer to the amps, and it caught fire I always mount all fuses out of battery before they go anywhere.


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Old 07-27-2006, 08:03 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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The setup goes battery-fuse-switch-to engine bay. Take a look at my first pic, the little black box about 6" after the cable, holds the fuse, which then goes around the back into the switch, out the switch into the engine bay. I don't see how the ground being attached there presents any type of problem.


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Old 07-28-2006, 06:10 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AWDDSMCRAZY
Ever since my buddy wired up his stereo with the fuse closer to the amps, and it caught fire I always mount all fuses out of battery before they go anywhere.
Ouch. Big mistake. Your fuse/breaker should ALWAYS be within 18" of the positive terminal on the battery.


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Old 09-28-2006, 11:28 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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Sorry for just seeing this Paul - the part # of the kit I got is 50105. I believe I got it from Summit.


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Old 09-28-2006, 12:30 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ludachris
Sorry for just seeing this Paul - the part # of the kit I got is 50105. I believe I got it from Summit.
Thanks for the part number, Chris. Man, that's an expensive little bugger, eh.


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Old 09-28-2006, 12:50 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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What I did on the 2g was use the flaming river switch with extra NC/NO contacts. Since the pump is right there at the back of the car, I ran the pump rewire through the NC contacts. Hitting the switch cut the main power cable and the pump, killing the motor. No assing around with the alternator. It did take 2-3 seconds for the motor to shut off, but it passed tech every time they tested it, and my local track is very strict on the rules. One more option anyway...


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Old 10-03-2006, 01:05 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95GSXracer
What I did on the 2g was use the flaming river switch with extra NC/NO contacts. Since the pump is right there at the back of the car, I ran the pump rewire through the NC contacts. Hitting the switch cut the main power cable and the pump, killing the motor. No assing around with the alternator. It did take 2-3 seconds for the motor to shut off, but it passed tech every time they tested it, and my local track is very strict on the rules. One more option anyway...
Since the re-wired fuel pump's (+) feed is directly off the battery anyway, couldn't you simply wire it from the same downstream lug on the cutoff as the (+) line leading to the engine compartment (fused of course)?

Has anyone run one of the remote-rod setups from Summit/Flaming River? Seems like a nice option to be able to remove the external On/Off switch when not at the track so as to remain "stealth" and not attract attention from coppers/thieves


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Old 10-03-2006, 02:27 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSM90AWD

Has anyone run one of the remote-rod setups from Summit/Flaming River? Seems like a nice option to be able to remove the external On/Off switch when not at the track so as to remain "stealth" and not attract attention from coppers/thieves
Do you mean like this?

Its not very noticable from the rear so I dont worry about it. And I am using the flaming river switch and the rod was cut down to 7" if I remember correctly.
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Old 10-03-2006, 03:25 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #20 (permalink)
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This borders off topic I suppose but why don't more people think of a lightweight battery installed in stock location instead?

For example:
http://www.brailleauto.com/ProductCa...p?idCategory=4

If you are doing it for weight relocation, well you still are using a full size battery, heavy cable routed to the back of the car and you need a battery box to keep it legal.

The only real downside is of course that they aren't as durable, more expensive, powerful etc.

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