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Manual Fan Switch getting too hot

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L2RTSiAWD

Honorary Moderator
20+ Year Contributor
11,533
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Apr 8, 2002
Chandler, Arizona
I set my fan switch up just like it says in the vfaq http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/2gcoolingfan.html and it's working great except for one thing. There seems to be too much current going to my switch and after about 5-10minutes the switch is hot enough to burn you. What do I need to install in order to stop that. I don't know much about electrical stuff I just followed the VFAQ. Do I need a better switch, or a relay, I'm not sure?
 
It's been a while, how’s the car.

Onto your toggle switch. What is the rating on the switch, current wise? I know the spal fans in my car could potentially draw up to 30 amps (there is a 30 amp fuse and relay inline). 30 amps is a fair amount of current, I'm not sure what fans you have but you might want to change the switch to something beefier.
 
Hey Dave, it's still ugly and I think the intake manifold gasket is leaking my boost away. I'll check out the switch when I get out to the car but I'm sure I cheaped out not knowing exactly what I needed. I have the stock Rad fan and a Spal 11 inch for the AC fan.
 
I'm not sure if the way I hooked up my 1G fan will help you, but maybe it could point you in the right direction. I hooked up a wire to the temp. sensor located on the passenger side of the radiator. The fan turns on when the sensor is grounded. I ran a wire into the cockpit from the temp. sensor to a small switch. The other terminal of the switch goes to ground. Turning on the switch completes the ground and the fan runs. This way the switch never gets hot. I even installed an LED that illuminates when the switch is on. A cool by-product of the LED install is that even when the switch is in the off position the LED lights up when the ECU turns the fan on.
 
There is no temp sensor on the radiator of a 2G. I don't remember where it is but I remember that not being an option on the 2G's.
 
I did the same thing as in that FAQ, except I ran two separate relays to both fans.

If you run relays you wont have high current going through your switch.
 
Turbocharged said:
I did the same thing as in that FAQ, except I ran two separate relays to both fans.

If you run relays you wont have high current going through your switch.


So in between each wire from the fuse box to the switch you put a relay in? Does it matter how close to the switch you put the relays because I wanted to atleast have them inside the cabin for easy replacement if nesseccary

What specific relays did you use? Electronic n00b here.
 
You should just be able to use normal relays - by normal I mean anything you can find at any electronics store. A simple 40/50 amp with 85, 86, 87, 87a, and 30 terminals.

Turbocharged - could you tell us or draw a diagram on how you wired them up? That'd be awesome and we'd appreciate it!
 
I did this install in my friends car, and guess what, relay was melted after couple of weeks...I didnt need it , ive got DSMLINK :cool: , j/k... maybe you should consider getting one too... Other than that, if you wanna stay like that, look for G13 (12v) relay or something cheaper like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/High...33574QQitemZ8075912529QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW , this will take care of you, but all wiring in the engine bay looks kinda of ugly.... With DSMLINK, you just click on the button and :rolleyes: ....
 
i don't know if your fixed yet but i have some visual for you.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


your switch will be the main power source to turn-on the relay and fan or fans. next install a bosch, DEI ect.. type relay in line with the switch. after the relay use thick gauge wire to the fans 14 to 12 gauge. same with your ground and constant wire. make sure and fuse your constant wire at 20 amps (not for sure how many amps is needed). you can have this wired with your ignition or constant but, if its constant make sure and turn it off or you might drain your battery.
 

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