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Installed Walbro 190 today

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tom04841

15+ Year Contributor
611
6
Jul 21, 2004
Rockland, Maine
Installed the 190 today. My car must be a freak, because it was SO EASY. The infamous fitting that doesn't like to crack loose, came right apart with almost no effort. The nuts holding it in came right off, and the gasket didn't stick to the tank at all.........:D :thumb:

Anyway, i hear all this talk about how loud the walbros are, but i don't hear it. Will it possibly be louder once i do the rewire tomorrow?

Oh yeah, can't wait, my new 2.5-3" DP is coming wednesday....then i am doing a 3" custom exhaust from there back....no cat, no muffler.....for now, until inspection is due next january...;)

Probably just tack the shell from the stock cat in place so it looks legal...:shhh:
 
My 255 was quiet for a long time too but then got loud all of the sudden one day. Now it has quiet days and loud days. I have not figured out why.

Sounds like you in for some fun, keep up the good work.

Seth
 
tom04841 said:
Anyway, i hear all this talk about how loud the walbros are, but i don't hear it. Will it possibly be louder once i do the rewire tomorrow?

Did you use the little black foam "sound insulator" that came with it? Mine's not too loud either, but I can hear it occasionally. I think I've just gotten used to it, though, because someone once asked me "what the hell is that noise coming out of your gas tank??" LOL.

It might get a little louder once you do the rewire, though.....Can't tell you for sure, because I did the pump install and the rewire at the same time.
 
Yes, i did put the foam isulator around the pump. I don't care either way...just curios.

I forgot to mention in my initial post, I have the parts for my water injection kit coming as well:D I got the shurflo pump, nozzle, and adjust boost pressure switch for 60 shipped
 
Good times ;)
Sounds like you're piecing together a nice little setup there :thumb: Have fun with it.
 
when i did my fuel pump install, i just got my two comb wrenches as close together as i could and used a vice grip to break it, estimated time to get it broken free: 30 seconds if that.

dont see why everyone makes such a fuss, i even used a 3/4 inch comb wrench instead of a 19mm on. its .05mm off if i remember correctly, but who cares. it was honestly the easiest thing ever.
 
obviously you haven't done too many of them, and you're in the minority.

i've had quite a few easy oens, but a lot more difficult ones, and one wrong move and the entire sending unit is trashed

plus the FWD cars have it under the car so they are even more succeptable
 
Well, i had to go and open my big mouth. I went out this morning to go to work, and the car wouldn't start. I drained the battery cranking it trying to start it.....:mad: I had to have my fiancee give me a ride in.

I figured it was the o-ring. I got home and took it out. The o-ring and cap stayed in the housing. When i looked, it was crooked...dont know if it was from when i put it in or when i took out the pump. I repositioned everything back on the pump and reinstalled it.....this time with a butt load of spit (thats ALOT incase you were wondering)...its all i had to lube the o-ring....LOL

She fired right up. Turned it off and let it set for 10 minutes or so. She started up again. I guess the real test will be later tonight when i go back out to try and start it. Hopefully it will. I can be disassembling the thing everytime i need to start it.
 
If you continue to run into the crooked or "wandering" o-ring problem, I devised a little "ghetto mod" that has worked quite well for me.

The Walbro kits come with a little plastic spacer (and I believe the stock pumps have a similar plastic spacer) but this didn't work for me. So what I did was take a ~1/4 inch (approx. - you'll have to measure) piece of fuel line and create a "heavy duty spacer" out of it. I just wedged it underneath the o-ring and sprayed some WD40 (or spit works fine, too, LOL) and put it all back together. Presto. No more o-ring taking a vacation down the fuel line housing. :thumb:

In case you're wondering, the piece of fuel line you'll be using is just a tiny bit smaller in diameter than the o-ring. So basically, you're just creating one *big* o-ring, and ditching the stock crap plastic spacer :)
 
Running a big 3 inch system with no cat on like a stock 14b will give you big boost creep..
better watch your boost gauge..a real one and run premium and still likely your engine might blow up.
Keep a cat in there or run smaller downpipe..
word to the wise..
Guy I sold my 92 to put 3 inch catback and no cat downpipe on the car..ran it with regular fuel and took out engine quite fast..he had no real boost guage..
 
AL92 said:
Running a big 3 inch system with no cat on like a stock 14b will give you big boost creep..
better watch your boost gauge..a real one and run premium and still likely your engine might blow up.
Keep a cat in there or run smaller downpipe..
word to the wise..
Guy I sold my 92 to put 3 inch catback and no cat downpipe on the car..ran it with regular fuel and took out engine quite fast..he had no real boost guage..

Umm, Yeah....NO!

My car still has the 14b in it, and I run a full 3" straight buschur racing TBE, no cat, and no creep....EvoIII 16g's are the real creep worthy turbo's, any boost you set it to between 10-18psi is most likely going to creep up to 20 at WOT...

WTF are you talking about your engine will blow up?? I am sorry but I have only heard of one other idiot ever using 87octane in a modded dsm and the guy was seriously retarded...

Your buyer did not blow the engine b/c of a creeping exhaust, he blew the engine from no prior knowledge and super high knock from boost on low octane
 
Good greif why on earth would one want to run crap gas in a hot rod anyway ? I run 93 or better !! :nono:
 
I wish I COULD GET 93, 91 piss water is the best we can get. WE HAVE NO CHOICE
 
AL92, are you kidding me? This is the 2nd rediculous post i've seen from you in 2 different threads.

No, a "big DP" will not always give you creep. Go with a 2.5"-3" DP and it will be more than fine.

And just because you're not running 91-93 octane doesn't mean "you're engine will blow up". It's all real simple man. Don't boost too much if you cant run higher octane with enough fuel compensation, or enough fuel comp period.

Stop spreading mis-information please. And honestly, i know it's against the rules to say so, but please research a little more before you start spouting from your keyboard.

As for the original post, I have yet to install my 190 because i STILL can't break any fittings. But i hope i don't run into the "floating o-ring" problem.
 
Umm I never said to run 87.Said the guy that bought my car did.And at stock boost it should have been ok ,car would have picked up the knock and knocked back timing.Lots of people cheap out and buy 87 due to price of fuel these days and don't hurt the cars stock

Now I sold my 92 bone stock.Bone stock boost.Guy bought a 3 inch catback and downpipe with no cat for first mod.He had no
boost guage just stock one.
I also saw his engine apart and it was detonated.So how did this happen on 87 at stock boost .It was boost creep from the exhaust!
He sold the exhaust after getting new engine to other buddy with no mods but I warned him and he got a boost gauge and ran 91.
We took it out right after he installed the exhaust and he hit 17psi with no boost controller. He backed off to 15psi and told him to get fuel support and tuning and logger to run past 15psi.He is buying a supra pump and sx afpr this coming weekend.And some injectors and maft shortly after that.
Thats two cars with big creep ,no boost controller and only mod exhaust with no cat.

Third example..my 92 first mod was apexi n1 catback and downpipe .I ran the car like that no boost controller and no boost gauge.
Car hit fuel cut in the cold temperatures.I then got boost guage.Car was creeping past 15psi! I put in support mods to handle 17psi or so.
Car in some mag article forget where now did similar deal with similar mods..apexi n1 catback and downpipe..no boost controller..
they hit similar 17psi and had to buy hks fuel cut override and they also put in fuel support mods to handle higher boost.no boost controller.I lost the link to that mag.

So believe what you want.Never said creep couldnt be fixed by porting maybe the wastegate or using bigger o2s and stuff or reinstalling a cat.
I have only seen 3 cars personally do this same thing.
But hey if you guys have no creep and actually are holding the car long enough to get it not just puttering around town but making some longer pulls on the highway then great..happy for some reason you get no big creep.And not likely its boost controllers making the difference as they don't normally stop creep.

Anyway said enough...and if you think I don't know what I am talking about well look at my mods and go back to your 14bs!
Just trying to help out the rookies so they don't have to buy a new motor like the guy that bought my 92.
But hey its only money right..I can afford to put in new engines..most people can't.
 
tom04841 said:
Installed the 190 today. My car must be a freak, because it was SO EASY. The infamous fitting that doesn't like to crack loose, came right apart with almost no effort. The nuts holding it in came right off, and the gasket didn't stick to the tank at all.........:D :thumb:

Anyway, i hear all this talk about how loud the walbros are, but i don't hear it. Will it possibly be louder once i do the rewire tomorrow?

Oh yeah, can't wait, my new 2.5-3" DP is coming wednesday....then i am doing a 3" custom exhaust from there back....no cat, no muffler.....for now, until inspection is due next january...;)

Probably just tack the shell from the stock cat in place so it looks legal...:shhh:


Consider yourself lucky. The top one would NOT budge without bending lines. SO I had to go under the car and try that fuel line. OOH the smell of gas all over my body was real nice for the next 7 days after a bazillion showers.

Mine started right up, in fact, for some reason, she starts up like as soon as I Turn the key. IT like starts up before the first crank. Before it would take a second. Now its a milli-second after I turn the key. Real weird.
 
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