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Stupid question needs quick experienced answer! HELP!

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elementalwindx

15+ Year Contributor
745
5
Aug 13, 2003
Wilmington, North Carolina
I'm putting my 880cc PTE's in today and they are in, but the 4 connectors are so tight that I cant take them off without loosening the fuel rail. Are they not seated properly or are they supposed to be tight like that? Thanks guys.

95 gst
 
Are you talking about the electrical connectors, that plug into the fuel injectors? If so these can be removed before you remove the fuel rail. You must first remove the metal clips that hold the connectors on. You will need a small jewelers screw driver to get under the clip and pry it out. If you decide to remove the fuel rail first it won't hurt anything, and it may make it a bit easier to remove the metal clips.
 
Mine dont have metal clips, mine have two things on the sides u squeeze in and pull up to remove them. Anyways I bolted it down after removing it and tryin it several different ways, and ripped one of the o-rings in the process, but now it starts up at 20psi at idle and when I turn it off, it sits at 10psi :) is that normal? What is idle base pressure set for? I'm still learning how I'm supposed to use one of these aeromotive fprs
 
elementalwindx said:
Mine dont have metal clips, mine have two things on the sides u squeeze in and pull up to remove them. Anyways I bolted it down after removing it and tryin it several different ways, and ripped one of the o-rings in the process, but now it starts up at 20psi at idle and when I turn it off, it sits at 10psi :) is that normal? What is idle base pressure set for? I'm still learning how I'm supposed to use one of these aeromotive fprs

Only 1G's have the metal clips and the 2G's have plastic clips with the little press tabs on the side to release them. I am swapping to those because none of mine have those little metals clips on there because they are so hard to keep up with. I am not for sure about that 10psi of fuel pressure when the car is off, I always thought that it should be at zero, but I have never even thought of checking it.

Your idle base pressure is set at a certain rate because the fpr is going to adjust the fuel pressure according to the amount of boost run in a 1:1 ratio. So if you are running 20psi at idle and you are running 18 pounds of boost, when you hit 18 pounds of boost you are going to be running 38 pounds of fuel pressure. The way that you are suppose to set the base fuel pressure on the aeromotive (or any other one) is to pull the vacuum line off of the fpr and set it then. Whenever you put the line back on your fuel pressure is going to drop some, but that is the correct way that you are suppose to do it according to aeromotive. I set mine to 38psi(stock) with the vacuum line off and it dropped to about 35 when I put the line back on. I am running 19 pounds on a 14B w/ 550's and the only reason that I would need to raise the fuel pressure or drop it is if I can't adjust the AFC enough to either lean the mixture out or richen it up enough. The more fuel pressure you use the more fuel is going to go through the injector when the injector is open. I don't see any reason why you would need to run 20psi of fuel pressure, that seems kind of low.

I am not really sure why you are using 880's, you must be planning on running a huge turbo with lots of boost. I saw on your car profile that you are planning on running 20psi, just wondering if you are still running the T25?
 
ChvyKc said:
Only 1G's have the metal clips and the 2G's have plastic clips with the little press tabs on the side to release them. I am swapping to those because none of mine have those little metals clips on there because they are so hard to keep up with. I am not for sure about that 10psi of fuel pressure when the car is off, I always thought that it should be at zero, but I have never even thought of checking it.

Your idle base pressure is set at a certain rate because the fpr is going to adjust the fuel pressure according to the amount of boost run in a 1:1 ratio. So if you are running 20psi at idle and you are running 18 pounds of boost, when you hit 18 pounds of boost you are going to be running 38 pounds of fuel pressure. The way that you are suppose to set the base fuel pressure on the aeromotive (or any other one) is to pull the vacuum line off of the fpr and set it then. Whenever you put the line back on your fuel pressure is going to drop some, but that is the correct way that you are suppose to do it according to aeromotive. I set mine to 38psi(stock) with the vacuum line off and it dropped to about 35 when I put the line back on. I am running 19 pounds on a 14B w/ 550's and the only reason that I would need to raise the fuel pressure or drop it is if I can't adjust the AFC enough to either lean the mixture out or richen it up enough. The more fuel pressure you use the more fuel is going to go through the injector when the injector is open. I don't see any reason why you would need to run 20psi of fuel pressure, that seems kind of low.

I am not really sure why you are using 880's, you must be planning on running a huge turbo with lots of boost. I saw on your car profile that you are planning on running 20psi, just wondering if you are still running the T25?


Runnin a horrid HRC super 16g. I plan on running a PTE SCM 50trim before I'm done with this car @ 25~ psi. I just adjusted the aeromotive to 43.5psi, but i did it w/o the vac line off, I'll go do that in a minute. It drops down to 20psi when the car is off now that its at 43.5 psi. According to a few friends thats 2g's base fpr.
 
elementalwindx said:
Runnin a horrid HRC super 16g. I plan on running a PTE SCM 50trim before I'm done with this car @ 25~ psi. I just adjusted the aeromotive to 43.5psi, but i did it w/o the vac line off, I'll go do that in a minute. It drops down to 20psi when the car is off now that its at 43.5 psi. According to a few friends thats 2g's base fpr.

Alright, glad to hear that you weren't planning on running 20 pounds on a T25. I am not for sure what the baseline fuel pressure is on a 2G, so if you have someone that you trust with that then go with it. Let me know how it turns out and if you need anymore help, hit me up.
 
I had the same problems on my 2g rail with aftermarket injectors. I ended up grinding down the aluminum "tabs" on the rail to give some more clearance and eventually just switched to a junkyard 1g rail and regulator.
 
Forgot to mention ... my first set of aftermarket injectors were also this tight and it ended up causing a bad connection on the 4th injector. I kept getting a cylinder 4 misfire code and couldn't figure it out until I pulled the injectors to inspect them. I didn't think they were causing the problem but I decided to put them in in a different order just to see. Sure enough next day I got a cylinder 2 misfire.
 
Base pressure is 43.5psi.

I'm having a problem where my car is stuttering. It did this before the 880s and fpr at the track as soon as I got into 3rd gear and near 60mph, it would just stay at the same boost and stutter. Its so damn annoying.
I'm using my MBC instead of my AVCR and 2nd gear 15psi, 50% idc, stutters, 3rd , 4th, 5th gears, 10-6 psi and stutters at 20% idc.


This is pissin me off. Could a simple boost leak be causing this?
 
Fuel pressure is high for 880's. How are you controlling the fuel? That's a LOT of fuel. 650's would be fine for a 50 trim. Sounds like the BOV is opening and/or check for boost leaks. vfaq has instructions on how to make a tester. mark
 
1fast97gsx said:
I had the same problems on my 2g rail with aftermarket injectors. I ended up grinding down the aluminum "tabs" on the rail to give some more clearance QUOTE]


I had to do the same thing too when I put in my densos
 
Tested for leaks. The guy who welded my new tial flange on ####ed up my upper pipe so i have to reorder another from RRE, theres a boost leak from the previous turboxs flange. *sigh* Hopfully this car will be great when I get this last damn thing fixed.
 
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