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evo3 Install

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xcelr8n

20+ Year Contributor
1,854
5
Jan 31, 2003
toronto,
Hey guys, got an evo3 tonight, wondering what I will need to install it, if anything additional to what I have.
I have all the lines in good shape, need to replace oil return, but have a new spare.
My manifold and o2 housing are STOCK pieces, along with a full turbo back exhaust after the o2.
The 1g manifold is in mint shape, and has been pretty nicely ported, already...
Im hoping I can hold on to this for a few months before I can go bigger, Can I?
Secondly, what to do with the o2, I'm hoping a ported 1g will suffice for now, also considering an external dump as well, the turbo has a 38mm flapper on it, if thats of interest.
Anything else I need, I know the mani/o2 will just be restrictions but I gotta deal with it for a few months.
Thanks
 
i'm not sure where the locations are on the turbo for water and oil as compared to your stock 14b, but for sure the intercooler pipes will mate up perfectly.

If the locations for water and oil are the same, then everything should just be plug and play once you've drained both fluids. So as far as parts are concerned (assuming identical line locations), you should probably get new gaskets for anything you are splitting apart.

As far as your exhaust management well you *could* leave it the way it is and be just fine, but of course there will always be room for improvement which will help boost hp.
 
Im leaving the stock manifold for now, all new gaskets, and port matching the stock o2 housing to the same size as the o2 evo3 gasket.
Later down the road I will go ported 2g mani for increased flow.
 
It sounds like you know this already but the EVOIII will be a direct swap over from the 14b, something us 2G guys do not have the luxury of doing :D

Your ported manifold and O2 will work fine but for a budget upgrade you cannot go wrong upgrading to a 2G manifold (or even EVOIII manifold) and an EVOIII O2 housing.
 
just make sure you clean threads especially on the bolts going thru the exhaust man. into the turbo. You could even put a little oil on them so they go in smooth and dont break off like mine did this morning :cry: besides that make sure you get all new gaskets and crush washers and you'll be good to go.



:talon: Dom
 
the 1g manifold and o2 housing will do but u can easily find a 2g manifold and 02 housing from the trader for $50 each. not a bad little cheap upgrade if you ask me. just dont forget new gaskets and crush washers, don't wanna be pulling anything back apart or dumping oil and coolant after you get it all done.
 
I'm getting all new gaskets and crush washers, and a new oil return line to from a buddy, so nothing will leak, HOPEFULLY.
The 1g o2 housing is going to be ported extensively on both ends, close to 2.5" on the downpipe side, to match my downpipe, and the o2 side will be gasket matched with the evo 2 o2 gasket, it should be sufficent IMO.
The manifold is a different story but I kinda want tubular down the road so I guess I will be waiting with the 1g mani for a couple months.
Thanks guys
 
CanadianTSi said:
I wouldn't waste your time on the 1g mani and only, just buy some used 2g pieces for cheap and port them.


Agreed... Also, don't forget to also use (preferably) all new turbo to exh man bolts as the OEs are going to be pretty brittle after all of those heat cycles starting from mile #1. At the very least, don't forget to get at least one new bolt to take the place of the OE stud (thus making it a lot easier to R&R the exh manifold in the future).

Personally, having done all of this several time before, I would also recommend looking into SS ARP hardware for the turbo to exh man if you plan on R&R'in the exh manifold frequently in the future. FFWD sells 'em as does SSSTUDS. I have yet to break/strip one of these ARPs after removing the exh man at least 5 times now... I can't say the same about the OE Mitsu bolts.
 
Just an update to this, started last night, downpipe was seized, so I had to pop off the o2 housing, and than drop it to the side and slide the ENTIRE turbo back exhaust off to get the o2 housing off... got the o2 housing ported as well...
2 of the turbo bolts snapped inside my once mint 14b, so thats terrific, I broke 1 manifold stud to since It had to come off as well.
Took about 1.5 hours to get everything off with all this BS.
Tonight the 16g is going on with the broken stud and I dont care if it leaks or not LOL..
Hopefully no more bs issues happen though, I swear NOTHING is bolt on with this POS, a simple turbo swap has become a freakin nightmare...
UGH
 
T9S1i said:
1 last thing to remember.....

ANTI SEIZE on the whole entire bolt for the manifold to turbo bolts... if you use OE mitsu bolts :thumb:

Anti seize can handle that kinda temp, I was thinking of it, but I didnt think it would handle the heat for more than a day anyways.
 
xcelr8n said:
Anti seize can handle that kinda temp, I was thinking of it, but I didnt think it would handle the heat for more than a day anyways.

I have had good luck with Permatex's Nickel Anti-Seize. It has the highest temperature rating of their entire line of Anti-Seize products.

Between that and those ARPs I mentioned earlier, I have not had any problems replacing the exhaust manifold or turbo. Penetrating oil can also help if you hose it down while it is still slightly warm and let it sit over night and work on it the next day.
 
I got a set of arp's, becuase I needed new bolts and they were cheaper OMG
Everything is on good and snug, only thing is oil is dribbling from the oil feed line now, it runs down the line and than down the return line perfectly making a nice mess...
I'm hoping its just the crush washers? The bolt isnt stripped or damage in anyway.
 
FWIW, install is done, no leaks, car spools pretty quick but its running opene xhaust right now, hits 10psi by about 2800rpms, and holds 10psi pretty much straight through, i didnt take it past 5500 rpms though.
Time to slap in the pump and injectors and tune for twice that now, fun times.
thanks guys.
 
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