Won't start/CEL

[vr4play]

Searched other threads, did not find my answer, so...

Background:
Started driving my car a couple of days ago after being in the garage for a month doing a clutch job. It was running fine until I went to a party Saturday night. I was there for about four hours and when I left, it took two cranks to start. That bothered me because I usually do not have problems starting the car. Yesterday (Sunday) I noticed the check engine light came on while I was driving. I stopped at the store for about 20min, came out and the car took two cranks to start. The CEL came on a little while after I was driving again. Last night I took the car out again to do some highway driving to help break the clutch in, and the I drove it for about 10 miles on the highway with no CEL. I exitted the highway and the CEL came on at the light. I pulled over into a parking lot shut the car off and started it back up a few times and the CEL came back on everytime. The car ran perfect before being put up for the last month.

Problem:
This morning (Monday) I can't start the car at all. It cranks, but doesn't fire. I looked at the spark plugs and they are wet, so I am assuming it is an ignition problem since fuel is getting to the plugs. I have NGK7 plugs (2mo old), ACCEL wires (2yrs old), MAFT (2mo old), 255fp (2mo old), 680 inj (2mo old).

Question:
Should I be thinking this is an ignition problem (i.e., CPS, ingnition pwr transistor, coil)?
How do I find out what that CEL code is on a 91GVR4?

Any input is appreciated.

 

[jonk00000]

what are you using to tune with ?
do you have any logging sofware

 

[vr4play]

I use MMCD to log. How do I log if I can't get the thing to run?

 

[jonk00000]

turn the key in the on position and you can check the cel on the logger you should get a number and description if I remember correctly. let me know if that works, if not I'll take a look at my pocketlogger I also have mmcd

 

[vr4play]

I will have to let my palm charge. Thanks for the advice.

I checked the coil's R values per the book. The secondary Rs are on point (13.5kohms, standard is 10.3 - 13.9), but my primary Rs are a little out of the range (1.2ohms, standard is .77 - .95). Since this is just checking continuity, I don't think that a slightly higher resistance will make a difference... should it?

 

[vr4play]

I put the logger on it. It still won't start, but no codes are currently being reported and no CEL. The CEL only came on after it was running for at least a minute or two.

 

[vr4play]

I think it is my ECU... I pulled it out and noticed one of the caps had leaked on to the board. The board does not appear to be destroyed, because the backside and the traces do not show damage, but the leakage went to other board components. The f?#*ed up thing about it is that I have the replacement caps sitting here waiting to go in this winter.

Question: Is it possible for the ECU to be repaired, and does any one know of boards in this condition that have been repaired?

 

[vr4play]

I got my caps replaced... car started, but still threw CEL. Used mmcd to read the code... it was a bad coolant temp sensor. Replaced the sensor, and now the car runs like a champ.

By the way, the new clutch setup I put is now has 150+ miles on it. So far the setup is so nice. I was previously running the ACT street setup with stock flywheel... big improvement in engagement and touch. I had to shim the pivot ball to get it to go into gear. Now disengagement is better than ever.

flywheel:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33732&item=7981292026&rd=

disk from this kit ($165):
www.eclutchmaster.com/racingitem.asp?num=9

pressure plate from this kit (came with a 4 puck rigid disk that I am not using):
www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=17547&cat=641&page=1