1g #2,3 cyl. not fireing after rebuid head, HELP

[marcos92talon]

Ive searched for hours thru the threads looking for simular problems. 92 talon was running fine, but overheats. I rebuilt the head(it was way warped) Started it up and it sounded great for 10sec., then shut down and won't start. Compression, fuel ok, so I pulled the plugs and found cyl. 2/3 not fireing. Don't know if I'm doing the ohm test on the coil and power transister, from the cheap chilton book is right. Think I need to get some test parts to swap out from the junkyard. But which one's? I think coil, power transister maybe ecu. I don't think the cam position senser is bad , while by boy was turning it over I was turning it and you can tell by the sputters that it was changeing the timing. What part could I of messed up with a head rebuild? What do you think? Would it run on 2 cyl.?Any help will be mucho appriciated.

-Mark

 

[graf703]

Timing off?

 

[karnsatron]

My guess is your second coil went out on ya. Take it off and swap the inputs on the back to verify that it is actually the coil and not a wiring problem though. Just put the inputs for the 1/4 coil on the 2/3 and vice versa.

 

[karbon]

You might get more responses by posting in the right forum.

 

[marcos92talon]

update: I got together with my brother that can read a schematic and meter far better than me. We traced wires out and measured the voltages, while turning the car over. before the coil we found the power transister was feeding two different voltages(one low(.02volts) and one high(5volts)) to the coil. So we traced out and tested the power transister voltages were also conflicting. From there we both decided the problem was either the ecu or the cam position sensor. We striped some phone wire and clamped them in the connecter that plugs in to the cam position sensor and tested the voltages. There are 4 wires, hot, ground and the two sending signal to the ecu. The cps(camshaft position sensor) was dropping the voltage down on one of the signals(can't remember the exact volts, big difference, like .01 and 5 volts). I think that I was a little overzealous in cleaning all the parts and may of messed up my cps. Problem of mine is it's a 400.00$ part. I reckon I'm gonna try to open it and see what makes it tick, man! 400$? I ground the valves, seats...I lapped and tested them all in myself. Sorry I'm not into all the mod's. I just want the car to run. So that's all for now, I'll get this car running if it's the last thing I do.

Karbon:I thought about submiting my post in "cylinder head & short block", but it was an ignition problem, sorry i'm a newbie to the forum's. Any idea's or thought's are still .. mucho appriciated

karnsatron: we didn't do that, we figured that it wasn't getting the required volts..
(y/rd key off -.3/ 0.02 key on/ turning over .02
yellow -.35 key off/ .02 key on / 5 volts turning over
white(power) -.24 key off/ 9.4v key on/ 8.2v turning over)
but you still may be right .. I'll try that first to make sure, before i do anything else.

graf703: all marks line up after the required turns of the crank... I think the timing's cool, pleanty of compression. I think it's ok, but then i never worked on this kinda motor.

all your input is important to me,
Thanks

-Mark

 

[WatchItExplode]

Yeah there's a lot of parts that are ridiculously expensive when you buy them new. Try dsmtrader.com or a local junkyard.

 

[marcos92talon]

update: took 3 different junkyard, but i found a car with the motor. Took out the cps. and the power transister(just in case). Got both for 16.00$. Got home put the cam position sensor on and all plugs are fireing. Thanks all for your input, but now it seems to be running very hot, the fan dosn't kick in, and I turn it off before the gauge gets to the red. Well, ! , back to the same cooling problem before I rebuilt the head.
-Mark