The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Head Gaskets

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mitsu 4-layer with copper spray. Make sure you have the head decked. If you are doing the whole motor, have the block decked as well. Pair it up with ARP headstuds.
 
I wouldn't say everyone. Myself, I use a stock mitsu composite headgasket paired up with some arp's. And I know I'm not the only one using this same setup.
 
The OEM composite gasket is fine for about 98% of the people on this board. However, for the very few that actually feel they need a metal HG, all of the above will work. If you use a composite gasket, use ARP's, torque em down night and tight (95+ ft/lbs with moly lube), and do NOT get any knock!!!
 
NOSLO2PT0 said:
The OEM composite gasket is fine for about 98% of the people on this board. However, for the very few that actually feel they need a metal HG, all of the above will work. If you use a composite gasket, use ARP's, torque em down night and tight (95+ ft/lbs with moly lube), and do NOT get any knock!!!

Very true. :thumb: The gasket will no longer act as a fuse. If you detonate, your internals (rod bearings etc) will take the beating. ;)

I also use the stock head gasket (composite), Permatex copper spray + ARP hardware @ 95-100ft lbs with no problem even running 28psi on my car. :cool:

Just like any gasket, clean mating surfaces + correct installation and torquing of the ARP stuff will make a BIG difference on it's performance. :)
 
i had the sce copper gasket and had a bad experience with it. i sprayed it with that copper spray and blew it within a week... and not just a little bit blown. i'll try and post a pic tonight if i have time. oh by the way i have 9:1 compression ross racing pistons but i still can't see why it would have blown that fast. I swapped in a cometic and have had no problems since. Anyways i'd say skip the sce gasket. do it right the first time unlike me. :thumbdown
 
90_talon_matt said:
i had the sce copper gasket and had a bad experience with it. i sprayed it with that copper spray and blew it within a week... and not just a little bit blown. i'll try and post a pic tonight if i have time. oh by the way i have 9:1 compression ross racing pistons but i still can't see why it would have blown that fast. I swapped in a cometic and have had no problems since. Anyways i'd say skip the sce gasket. do it right the first time unlike me. :thumbdown


Did you have the head milled, block decked and had a mirror finish to ensure proper seal? If not, don't blame the product. Blame the operator. I have a friend who blew his in 2 days but he also just slapped it on there like the regular composite HG. What else did he expect would happen? ;)
 
me612 said:
I wouldn't say everyone. Myself, I use a stock mitsu composite headgasket paired up with some arp's. And I know I'm not the only one using this same setup.

You certainly aren't. I haven't had any problems with this setup either. :thumb:
 
heavyD said:
You certainly aren't. I haven't had any problems with this setup either. :thumb:

Your profile says you are running a cometic... Did you switch from the cometic back to the stock composit? If so, why? I am finishing my engine build soon (get my head back on Fri.) and I am still trying to decide if I'm going to run MLS or a composite gasket. I may just go with a cometic since my head's been resurfaced and the blocks been decked.

-Dustin
:talon:
 
-red97rum- said:
Your profile says you are running a cometic... Did you switch from the cometic back to the stock composit? If so, why? I am finishing my engine build soon (get my head back on Fri.) and I am still trying to decide if I'm going to run MLS or a composite gasket. I may just go with a cometic since my head's been resurfaced and the blocks been decked.

-Dustin
:talon:

I got a Cometic put in when I got my engine rebuilt. I tried the spray and couldn't get it to seal so I put the OEM one in and not problems since. I guess I should change that in my profile. ;)
 
heavyD said:
You certainly aren't. I haven't had any problems with this setup either. :thumb:
Likewise. The Mitsu is more forgiving sealing wise too.

I have heard the SCE needs the block to be O-Ringed too...not worth it IMO.
 
ive ran MLS and the SCE copper HG with an o-ringed block. its not ment for a daily driver. mine also blew out on a fresh block and head. now im running he mistu MLS HG with no problems. thats what ive been running so far.
 
heavyD said:
I got a Cometic put in when I got my engine rebuilt. I tried the spray and couldn't get it to seal so I put the OEM one in and not problems since. I guess I should change that in my profile. ;)

Hmmm... I think I might stay away from a cometic then. But then again the car isn't going to be driving on a daily basis. It will probably see 22-24 psi on a regular basis. What's the "general" limits and longevity running moderately high to high boost on the composite gasket (with arp's of course ;) )??

Thanks,

Dustin :talon:
 
Your tuning ability is the limit. 35psi and stock composite HG and ARP's hve been done by more than a few people. But these aren't just your avg. AFC toonrz. These people know what the hell they are doing.
 
NOSLO2PT0 said:
Your tuning ability is the limit. 35psi and stock composite HG and ARP's hve been done by more than a few people. But these aren't just your avg. AFC toonrz. These people know what the hell they are doing.

I'm going to go with the composite. Shit, it'll save me about $50. Thanks for the help NOS

-Dustin
 
NOSLO2PT0 said:
The OEM composite gasket is fine for about 98% of the people on this board. However, for the very few that actually feel they need a metal HG, all of the above will work. If you use a composite gasket, use ARP's, torque em down night and tight (95+ ft/lbs with moly lube), and do NOT get any knock!!!

Not very smart to over TQ the head stud set. A motor I have hear had them TQed to 95+ and when I went to take them off, the teeth on two of the nuts sheered off. Not stripped off from using a tool wrong, but sheered off as in went away in a burst of metal flakes.

Recommended TQ w/ supplied moly lube is only about 70 I believe and when using 30wt oil, it's 80 ft/lbs. I wouldn't go over 80 with moly lube or 90 with 30 wt oil. Just my experience.
 
98spydert said:
Recommended TQ w/ supplied moly lube is only about 70 I believe and when using 30wt oil, it's 80 ft/lbs. I wouldn't go over 80 with moly lube or 90 with 30 wt oil. Just my experience.


Maybe with regular head studs. But everyone that runs ARP's and high boost, regularly goes up to a minimum of 95 ft/lbs using moly lube. But i guess when you are running 10-15psi, you can get away with 80ft/lbs. I'll listen to what the 9 and 10 sec. guys are doing. You listen to the 14 sec. toonrz.
 
NOSLO2PT0 said:
Maybe with regular head studs. But everyone that runs ARP's and high boost, regularly goes up to a minimum of 95 ft/lbs using moly lube. But i guess when you are running 10-15psi, you can get away with 80ft/lbs. I'll listen to what the 9 and 10 sec. guys are doing. You listen to the 14 sec. toonrz.

I didn't say I listened to anyone, I told you what REALLY happened to me. And they weren't "regular head studs"... actually there's no such thing, regular, if you're refering to stock, are head BOLTS not studs.

But I'll just go back to my all stock 10-15 psi DSMs and keep on being a 14 sec toonr by reading the damn box the ARPs came in. Have fun in your single digit time slips :rolleyes:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top