I want 400 HP... TO THE GROUN-DA

[focusedrage]

Ok i have decided on a goal for my talon tsi awd. 400 HP to the ground but i have some questions to help me get ther:

1. does the amount of power lost throught the drive train (AT) increase or decreae as the power of the engine is incresed, or does it stay the same, so i might need a 420 hp engine to put my goal to the ground?

2. I know I will need a turbo upgrade to reach my goal. What is recomended 16G? 20G? T3/04?

3. I would like to take full advantage of all the parts availible for my car, i deally i woudl like a small quick spooler and a buch of other things to get to my goal, rather than a big ass turbo, would i also want to consider cams, intercooler and such?

4. Right now i have the injen intake, 3" cat back, extream motorsports boost controller, plugs and wires, plus a/f and boost gauge. Am i heading in the right direction?

Any help on this matter will be much apretiated, i assume such a goal will apply to many others who like to stay "off the bottle" so i think it will apply to allot. Thanks.

 

[focusedrage]

Oh by the way i would like to have an intedrated wastgate or one that feeds back in to the down pipe, i want this to be a full street car, but i may or my not loose the cat... ha ah

 

[stangtt]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/2gturbo/stage2power.php

There are many different ways to get that kind of power. It looks like you have lots of research to do though. Start with the above.

 

[90GSX]

1. I believe drivetrain loss through friction is generally considered as a percentage, i.e if the engine makes 100 crank Hp, and the friction loss through the drivetrain is 15%, then it will put 85hp to the ground. Consequently, the loss increases as a percentage of the total power. To put 400Hp to the ground you'll need to make well over 420 crank Hp, think more like 450-475, maybe more.

2. Bigger than a 16G.

3. You will need a "big ass" turbo, AND a "buch of other things" to get to your goal.

4. You've got BPU right now, basic performance upgrades. You're along way from 400WHP, but with enough research you can realize your goal. However you must also understand that 400WHP is not really a bolt on affair.

5. RESEARCH

Good luck,

 

[doug]

If you are AT, then you'll want to install a shift kit and do the end clutch upgrade, as well as put in a high-stall torque converter. But fortunately, that's probably all the tranny mods you'll need.

 

[candela]

NNNNNNNNNNNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWWWWWSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

 

[BoostinAWD]

The 15% or whatever % you lose with AWD is based on the stock horsepower.

If you add another 100 horse you dont lose 15% of the 300 horse. Say with the stock awd car you had 200 base horsepower and you take 15% from that which is around 30 horsepower. So now your making 170 horse to the wheels.

If you add 100 horse you will now have 270 not 255 at the wheels.
So what I'm trying to say is that the drivetrain only takes away so much power. And that amount doesnt increase with your horsepower #'s



Oh btw you need to work on your vocab, can't read it very well

 

[focusedrage]

Nice, crimany, parhaps thats a little too much hores power to consider right now, i didnt think it was so involved? how well could one take a t3/t4 or 16g? like if i used that turbo what kind of hp could i get if i really trweekrd everything else? Thnaks for the help though.

 

[SM00TH976]

no. drivetrain losses are always a percentage. there was a discussion about this a while back. i don't remember the details of it but the gist was that since you are accelerating all of the drivetrain parts faster, it takes more power to do it. i don't really know how good of a job i did explaining that, but trust me its been discussed to death before. drivetrain losses are a percentage, and on an AWD car, the percentage will probably be a little higher than normal.

 

[iwantawd]

i think the percentage is about 17% which means he will really need about 468 hp at the crank and i think he is light years away from this if he isnt sure if he even needs to upgrade an intercooler, but ive got plans of my own so MORE POWER TO YA! RESEARCH and not just on a forum.

 

[got traction?]

Your going to need $$$ and a back up car.

 

[focusedrage]

dudes, i know i need an intercooler, foret the 400 hp goal obviouslyy its too expensive and such, sell me aobut the t3/t4 or 16g, and this is reasearch im asking questions, its the best kind

 

[90GSX]

The best kind of research is reading the answers to these questions that have been answered already.

Start here:
http://www.dsm.org/archives/t/

 

[TSi92]

400 whp here's the recipe:
boost gauge
EGT gauge
shift kit
high performance torque converter
boost controller
ported 2G or EVO O2 housing or o2 housing eliminator pipe
ported 2G exhaust manifold
modified MAS or 2G MAS or better yet a VPC
datalogger (or dsmlink or whatever you need to log stuff)
Upgraded fuel pump
550 or 660 injectors
fuel management (S-AFC, dsmlink etc.)
FMIC
20G or bigger turbo (I recommend a FP green)


and last but not least a good tune up and CAREFUL TUNING

P.S.
Guys he has an automatic, drivetrain loss is more like 25% on auto-tranny AWD dsm's. The stock torque converter sucks a lot of torque from the engine.

 

[CBgst]

I think a better goal for your car would be how fast you want it to be. If you want to 13.5s then who cares how much hp you have to make to run that. IF I could run a 13.5 on 100hp then who cares how much hp I'm putting down what matters is how fast my car is. That's my opinion

 

[NosLaser]

Alright. We have another 14 second 2G guy wanting 400 wheel HP. Being someone who has actually made 400 wheel HP on a stock 2G bottom end, you will need to do quite a bit more than you think. Believe it or not, actually making the power is not all that hard. Making the power reliably enough to be a daily driver, and without snapping one of those pencil thin 2G rods is quite another task. I'm sure everyone remembers the DSM Shop. The shop car, a good friend of mine, was a 1995 Eagle Talon AWD. That car had a stock 90K mile bottom end and pretty weak compression to boot (like 120psi in a few cylinders). With that car, we were able to make 400 wheel HP at 28 pounds of boost on the oooooold style Level 1 Mutt when they were first introduced. How did we do it? Tuning. Is certainly wasn't super turbo or anything, it was just a well done setup. For those of you who are reading and paying attention, pay special attention to the following statement. I do NOT recommend you trying to tune a 400 wheel HP stock bottom end 2G with an AFC or a DSMlink. I personally don't have too much experience with the DSMlink, but I know it won't hold a candle to a PMS. A PM is a GREAT, let me re-phrase, EXTRAORDINARY system for a 2G. If you want a 400 wheel HP setup, here is a parts recipe to get you there, however, again, you will need proper tuning to make that power on that stock bottom end (read: HAVE A PROFESSIONAL TUNE YOUR CAR)

K&N air filter
3 inch turbo inlet pipe
3 inch O2 Eliminator exhaust
Walbro 255LPH HP fuel pump (or equivalent)
Ported exhaust manifold w/EGT gauge
FMIC
1G intake/throttle body/ported head swap (or, use the stock 2G head and have it ported) w/ARP head studs and upgraded head gasket
PMS engine management system
660cc injectors
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator w/ fuel pressure gauge
1G BOV (or Greddy if you need to be a dork)
ETE32/Green/L2R turbo (depending on preference..I like the ETE personally)
Web/HKS/crower cams (again, I prefer the webs, but that's personal preference again)
Manual boost controller
All supporting gauges
Definately need some tranny work to handle the power

All in all, it's going to be expensive. Why nobody ever wants to start off small and work their way up is totally beyond me...

Regards,

 

[ILOSE]

Originally posted by NosLaser


All in all, it's going to be expensive. Why nobody ever wants to start off small and work their way up is totally beyond me...

Regards,

I am not saying this to be a butt-head, but the TF&TF really has brought on this influx of 10sec, 4 and 500hp wannbe people. If you were able to do a prior to that movie release search for these topics, I am willing to bet that they would be few and far inbetween. Then do an after the release and I'd say there was a slight rise in inquiries.

 

[TSi92]

400 whp is possible with a 20G or even a big 16G. All you need is lots of supporting mods and tuning tuning tuning.

 

[squiggs]

ahh the weekly 10 second thread. i think noslaer hit the nail one the head with "its going to be expensive" and "start saving for a tranny"

 

[focusedrage]

hmm perhaps less hp, i want to be able to smoke vipers and stuff on the street, oh and i just steted takign the overdrive off.... wow, car is fast, no flaming i jhust never had it off

 

[HighPsi91]

The best way to smoke a viper on the street is to buy a Z06 Vette or maybe a Porsche. No DSM can match the performance and the reliability of a factory engineered supercar. If you think that your car is fast with the overdrive off then just stick with that for a while its alot cheaper

 

[94TSiAWD]

Originally posted by HighPsi91
The best way to smoke a viper on the street is to buy a Z06 Vette or maybe a Porsche. No DSM can match the performance and the reliability of a factory engineered supercar. If you think that your car is fast with the overdrive off then just stick with that for a while its alot cheaper

 

[laserspeeddemon]

I completely disagree. If hes got a goal, shoot for it. I would. beating a Viper on the factor turbo is possible. On a 16g difinetely possible. But its how you mod,tune and drive your car thats gonna give you the edge. I beat a Rustang 5.0L with nothing more then an KN Filter. Dude just couldn't drive.

 

[TRBOTSI]

NOT ANOTHER ONE

 

[Batboost]

All imma say is deep pocket and Tunning.

I know everyone has their little part they have added and im new to the DSMs but imma add that you are gonna have parts go wrong as well. Things breaking (espcially in AWD car), Nicks here and there, Gaskets blowing, Exhaust leaks, problems with here and there. Its gonna be a long road to get there...

I say you worry about putting the power to the ground then try to make the power. Thats what i call making it work RIGHT. I mean true anyone can go slam alotta money into a motor (i just did and so do many others) and not think bout how its gonna put it down. Tq converter, some brand adjustable gas shocks, stiff springs, other drivetrain components, and most of all the car in pretty good to perfect tune or running order.

Go with the Smaller turb (16g to 20g) and grab some cams. Make sure that fuel is right (you have the 2g and i have also heard good things bout DSMLink)

All in all good luck but dont believe you can do it overnight and under $2000

my .02