wiseco break-in oil?

[1fast97gsx]

what do you guys use to break in wiseco rings? I know ross told me 20-50 over the phone back in my ross piston days, but my new setup is wiseco pistons. I don't have time to look for their number or call them when they are open .. so maybe someone on here knows? Thanks.

 

[TSIfreek]

20/50 is to thick of oil to start a new engine in this very cold weather. I used the cheap $1.00 10/40 in mine. It doesnt matter what type of piston or rings you have (why would you think that)?? I would use 20/50 in the summer but not in the winter. Think about it.

 

[1fast97gsx]

well I just figure every manufacturer has what they think should be used and I kinda wanted to follow that. What do YOU recommend for break in and then again once the engine is broken in. Both summer and winter I'm interested in.

 

[Maglin]

1Fast97GSX you finally got your motor all together now? I personally would not run a heavy weight oil on a new motor. 10-30 is the heaviest I've ever ran on a new motor. In my personal engines I always have used 5-30 for break-in. I wouldn't recomend using the cheapest oil but it is only going to be in their for about 20-30 minutes tops before your first oil change. I'm very anal about break-in and oil changes. It doesn't take no time to get all those bearings to start seating properly. Also make sure you either use a good quality oil filter for you turbo's supply line or an old turbo for break in. Would be a shame to loose a turbo from break in. Happens all the time. I have a Old B16G that I'm going to use. My 14B is in such great shape I would rather use a turbo that is worn out, but still boost so you can seat your rings properly.

 

[DSMJim]

5/30 cheap ol oil is great for break in. You don't want anything fancy for the first little while. There is no point to running a 20/50 ever. Modern oils are good enough that our motors will never break them down, there is no point to losing 20hp from a heavy ass oil when a 5/30 or 10/30 will do just fine. THe car isn't designed for it and it doens't help.

 

[gsx951]

It doesn't take no time to get all those bearings to start seating properly.

Bearings don't seat, they don't even touch.

 

[MNGSX]

Bearings don't seat, they don't even touch.

Yep

DUH
You seat rings not bearings

 

[1fast97gsx]

on my last motor I ran 10-30 ... broke it in for around 1500 miles and then switched to synthetic. I may try 5-30 initially and then switch the synthetic at the 1000 mile mark or so. What weight would you recommend once it's broken in? Maybe break it in with a 5-30 and then switch to a 10-30 synthetic?

( my motor will be assembled this weekend .. then all I need is intercooler piping and I'm good to go )

 

[TSIfreek]

Mines in and running what taking so long :laugh:

 

[1fast97gsx]

money my friend!! I only work part time becuase I'm a full time student so I don't have that much money to spend on car stuff. All I need to do is put it together now and make the intercooler pipes. Oh ... and pray everything is done right.

 

[1fast97gsx]

Mines in and running what taking so long :laugh:

What do you personally recommend for oils? You think 10-30 is fine and then just switch to synthetic at the 1500 mile mark or so?

Also how's yours running? Are you still on a stock tranny? You have it fully broken in yet?

 

[poorboyracing]

I'm using 10-30w discount oil. So for no problem. Although only 60 miles. thanks oj

 

[diambo4life]

10-30w

 

[Maglin]

I ment rings... doh... Half asleep... I was thinking of bearings and oil...

 

[44pirate]

I broke my Wiesco's in with 30ND. 30 weight non detergent

 

[TSIfreek]

What do you personally recommend for oils? You think 10-30 is fine and then just switch to synthetic at the 1500 mile mark or so?

Also how's yours running? Are you still on a stock tranny? You have it fully broken in yet?

What ever oil you want to use is fine it really doesnt matter. I wouldnt switch to syn untill I hit the 3000 mark to give the rings a good break in. I started it last weekend and its running great. I put the comp 100 grind cams in and to the trained ear you can tell there in there but it still Idles like a kitten. Also the vacume is great at 20 inhg!!!! I noticed right away the motor reves quicker from the cams and the removed B/S. I have not been able to drive it becuse my front lower control arms need to be replaced and its done. I am still running the stock trany and stock clutch so I dont blow anything up. Wont be seeing what this thing can do untill I hit about 500 miles and then I will hit some 7500 rpm shifts and see how it feels.
As long as you doubble check all your clearances you sould not have a problem.

 

[jetdriven]

you should use ND (Non-detergent) oil for the break-in. Detergent oil removes the metal that is worn from the rings as they seat, you want that metal on the cylinder barrels to help file-fit them in better. After a few miles change it again with ND. then put 1000 on it or so and use your favorite oil.

 

[TSIfreek]

you should use ND (Non-detergent) oil for the break-in. Detergent oil removes the metal that is worn from the rings as they seat, you want that metal on the cylinder barrels to help file-fit them in better. After a few miles change it again with ND. then put 1000 on it or so and use your favorite oil.

WTF

 

[Defiant]

Yeh, I'd never heard the ND story told just that way, either. But, different myths all seem to have different moral lessons.

And yet again, it seems we've covered them all. With the usual conclusion: if it matters at all, it sure doesn't matter very much.