Ways to get more air to the radiator with FMIC

[Violater101]

Okay, lets hear it. Any suggestions would be helpful. There was another thread some 4 pages long, but it dealt with just overheating. I'm not overheating per say, but would be interested in some tips on how to redirect some air to the radiator since I have a big FMIC blocking my air flow to the radiator. I know some would say that I have a cooling problem then, but thats not the case, I just installed a brand new Fluidyne radiator which only helped slightly. I know its a flow problem because at lower speeds, the temp drops ... thus motor is not working as hard and cools off.

Thanks again,

 

[fast_talon]

I have not tried tried this, but I am planning on doing this soon. Install a piece of aluminum on the bottom of your car below the FMIC and the Radiator. This way all of the air will go through the FMIC and then the Radiator. Since there is a space between the 2 air can escape out of the bottom, causing lesss of a cooling effect.

 

[iwantawd]

fast talon--it sounds like you want to connect the bottom or the radiator to the intercooler so you can trap the air exiting the intercooler. i think it would be much better, because the air coming out of the intercooler is warmer now, to angle the aluminum sheet down below the intercooler to pull air in that is going under the intercooler. just a suggestion, remember i dont even have my car yet, im just stating an idea i got from a very good book ive read MAXIMUM BOOST----i recommend it to all

 

[sunflashx]

Seal the FMIC core to the car frame with foam, not styrofoam, the more plasticy based stuff.

Otherwide once the air moves through the ic it will take the path of least resistance and down and around the sides of th Radiator/AC core instead of through it.

Look at how the factory installed the AC core. It has foam sealing it to the radiator core support and those gaps are much smaller than the gaps a FMIC has around the core. At least mine was.

 

[GRNDSM]

After I installed my BR FMIC, my cruising temps went up to around 205-210. After drilling these holes:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1038&papass=&sort=1

The temp drop by around 10deg to 195-200deg. Still a bit hot, but that was an easy way of getting some improvement.

I am thinking of drilling a few more holes...

Leon
RR

 

[CarpeDSM]

"Maybe the Flanders Mobile could use some speed holes..."



Also, I've seen people in the gallery that add vents to their hood.

 

[TSi92]

Right now I have a fluidyne radiator and a ADFX FMIC. I'm only running one fan and when i use the AC in slow moving traffic the car starts to overheat or when I make a couple of 1/4 mile passes the car overheats a bit. Other than that, I can drive around all day in 90 degree 90% humidity weather no problem.

 

[Violater101]

Well, unless you have the ability to read your temps, what do you call as fine? I mean my needle can still be under halfway mark and be around 216 which is just too hot for me personally. I'm going to try the foam idea. I'm guessing you can get something like this at Home Depot? What did you use to keep the foam from moving?

Leon: So by just adding some holes, I guess you allowed more air to pass through ..it appears that this air would miss the I/C and go straight to the radiator. What kind of tool did you use? Your lucky they only went to around 205-210 since I see upwards of 216 if I increase my speed to around 75-80 and thats without A/C on. Thanks for the info

Any other suggestions?

I'm also using a Greddy radiator cap which is supposed to raise your the boiling temp of water since its a 18lb cap vs 15 stock I believe. Never hurts to be safe. Are any of you using a Water Wetter product?

 

[GRNDSM]

Well, unless you have the ability to read your temps, what do you call as fine? I mean my needle can still be under halfway mark and be around 216 which is just too hot for me personally.

That is correct. My factory gauge stays in the same spot between 180 and 220 deg. That is just not good enough for me…

Leon: So by just adding some holes, I guess you allowed more air to pass through ..it appears that this air would miss the I/C and go straight to the radiator. What kind of tool did you use?

First, I covered everything in masking tape, then I measured thing out and marked them with a pen (on the tape). Then I used 1” hole drills.

Your lucky they only went to around 205-210 since I see upwards of 216 if I increase my speed to around 75-80 and thats without A/C on.

Well, my car went up to 220-225 in stop and go traffic, but that was not very consistent. So I was using cruising at 70mph as a bench mark. I find it that if I am following someone my temps can go up 5-10 deg. As soon as I pull out into a clear lane, the temps drop again… FMIC can really suck sometimes .

I'm also using a Greddy radiator cap which is supposed to raise your the boiling temp of water since its a 18lb cap vs 15 stock I believe. Never hurts to be safe. Are any of you using a Water Wetter product?

I am also going to try a cap with higher pressure. Stock is .9bar or 13.9psi. I have seen 17psi model at a local autoparts store.

You can also try better fans and playing around with shrouding.

Leon
RR

 

[fast_talon]

I wonder what the temps would look like when running an exhaust manifold with a heat shield vs no heat shield?

I will have to play around with shrouding and such to see what would lower the temps.

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by fast_talon
I wonder what the temps would look like when running an exhaust manifold with a heat shield vs no heat shield?

I will have to play around with shrouding and such to see what would lower the temps.

i run no heat shield and 2 spal's. temps are 190 at idle and no more then 180 while driving.

 

[Violater101]

I've always heard that stock fans are better than a spal? Is this not the case? I'm running a upper heat shield and no lower shield and stock passenger fan and spal drivers side fan.

 

[SPEEDY]

Originally posted by Violater101
Well, unless you have the ability to read your temps, what do you call as fine? I mean my needle can still be under halfway mark and be around 216 which is just too hot for me personally. I'm going to try the foam idea. I'm guessing you can get something like this at Home Depot? What did you use to keep the foam from moving?

Leon: So by just adding some holes, I guess you allowed more air to pass through ..it appears that this air would miss the I/C and go straight to the radiator. What kind of tool did you use? Your lucky they only went to around 205-210 since I see upwards of 216 if I increase my speed to around 75-80 and thats without A/C on. Thanks for the info

Any other suggestions?

I'm also using a Greddy radiator cap which is supposed to raise your the boiling temp of water since its a 18lb cap vs 15 stock I believe. Never hurts to be safe. Are any of you using a Water Wetter product?

Where did you happen to purchase your GReddy radiator cap from, and what was the price of it? Thanks!!

 

[tjh-dsm]

Originally posted by SPEEDY
Where did you happen to purchase your GReddy radiator cap from, and what was the price of it? Thanks!!

try www.aieonline.com , it's like $17 plus shipping.

 

[SPEEDY]

Originally posted by tjh-dsm


try www.aieonline.com , it's like $17 plus shipping.

I appreciate it.

 

[cmc]

I run an apex fmic, no AC, but still have condinsor, have no heat sheilds, and run just fine. Knock on wood.

 

[Kevin Jewer]

If I have issues with temps or not here are my plans when I get my FMIC in. Air isnt terribly inclined to go into the nose of the car. It would much rather go around altogether because the engine compartment and hood act like a cup, or a parachute and just catch all the air. I'm going to shroud the IC to the radiator very well, and install some extraction vents in the hood. I scored a carbon fiber hood real cheap with some very slight damage, so I dont mind hacking it up. This will let the air out (for the same reason that every one cuts out thier splash shield behind the side mount) so you can get some flow through the radiator and IC core. More airspeed through both can only be a good thing...

 

[Violater101]

I wonder if those front lip spoilers help any? Anyone? You can get them at like Machv.com and I'm sure other places as well.

 

[sunflashx]

Originally posted by Violater101
I've always heard that stock fans are better than a spal? Is this not the case? I'm running a upper heat shield and no lower shield and stock passenger fan and spal drivers side fan.

A shrouded stock fan is better than a unshrouded spal zip tied to your radiator.

A shrouded spal fan is better than a shrouded stock fan.

 

[Violater101]

The A/C fan kicks on regardless when your car is 216? I was pondering having that fan run all the time, but i'm not sure this is a good idea or not. Pro's or Con's?

 

[IPT]

I know lots of people that run both fans all the time. They have had them like that for a couple of years and no problems.

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by IPT
I know lots of people that run both fans all the time. They have had them like that for a couple of years and no problems.

I run mine always on because they wont work of the relay *dont ask why* I have no idea. IM thinking of going with an adjustable fan control unit from jegs. you weld the temp probe to the radiator. it allows you the turn the fans on at any temperature.

 

[Violater101]

What kind of foam do yall recommend? Just regular foam you can get at your local HP (Home Depot) racing?

 

[larryd]

i just looked at my logs from last night.. a 4th gear pull at 120mph shows my coolant temp at 203.. looks to be about 205-215 idling.