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2G a few stroker questions

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1fast97gsx

20+ Year Contributor
4,517
17
Jul 6, 2003
Orland Park, Illinois
I have a 7 bolt block and found a crank out of a 99 eclipse spyder ( n/t ) that's supposedly a 7 bolt. I already have a set of eagle rods and standard sized bearings. If I buy this crank and a set of stroker pistons it should all be a direct swap in right? As in the crank bearings would be the same as the 7 bolt bearings assuming both are standard sized, I can use the 2.0 7 bolt eagle rods and just buy a set of stroker pistons? Thanks for the replys ... I did a few searches and I think everything is the way I think it is but I want to double check first. Thanks.
 
1fast97gsx said:
I have a 7 bolt block and found a crank out of a 99 eclipse spyder ( n/t ) that's supposedly a 7 bolt. I already have a set of eagle rods and standard sized bearings. If I buy this crank and a set of stroker pistons it should all be a direct swap in right? As in the crank bearings would be the same as the 7 bolt bearings assuming both are standard sized, I can use the 2.0 7 bolt eagle rods and just buy a set of stroker pistons? Thanks for the replys ... I did a few searches and I think everything is the way I think it is but I want to double check first. Thanks.

You are going to need the rods too. 2.4L crank has a longer stroke (100mm vs. 85mm) therefore requiring shorter rods. I'd just find a bare 6 bolt, and buy the stroker kit from Car Shop Inc
 
Why does he need shorter rods for? I didnt know that anyone made short rods. I didn't need them on my setup. And isnt stock stroke 86? i just got my setup done and in retrospect, it would have been better for me to have bought the Pauter rods from Marco instead of the Eagles. The Pauters will save you untold amounts of money since they dont need to be clearanced. And you REALLY need to get a 6 bolt man.
 
Just the pistons are required! but just check if the block you have doesn't need a bore job, cause i dont think there is an oversize stoker piston yet to suit the 2G rod i may be wrong but haven't been able to find an off the shelf unit 020' with a 22mm pin!
 
Any standard length DSM rod will work fine as long as they are mated with the proper crank, 6/7 bolt.

7 bolt motors had a variety of sizes of main bearings available for them. Make sure you get the right size for your setup.
 
Stock 4G63 stroke is 88mm. Stock 4G64 stroke is 101mm. The rods for both engines are 150mm. The difference in stroke is made up at the crank (hence the reason you have to SWAP IT). You have to have stroker pistons because they move the wrist pin up 6mm to compensate for lower deck height on the 4G63 block.
 
^ that's the answer I was looking for. Thanks. The only other thing I read somewhere is that block clearancing needs to be done because the rods will hit the block. I read you just use a die grinder or a dremel ... I saw a picture of someones block that did it a while back but now I can't find it again. Anyone have pic of a block with the clearancing done?
 
That's the first I've ever heard of having "clearance" the block - the 4G63 and the 4G64 are identical blocks, minus bore size and 6mm of deck height.
So to answer your question, no, you don't have to clearance the block.
 
That's the first I've ever heard of having "clearance" the block - the 4G63 and the 4G64 are identical blocks, minus bore size and 6mm of deck height.
So to answer your question, no, you don't have to clearance the block.


When was the last time you built a stroker motor? I just got mine done and you have to clear the bottom of cylinders due to the crank moving the rods more from side to side. The space between the rod at the bottom of the cylinders are very close. That is why Marco had to design a different set of Pauter rods so they dont have to BE clearenced in the stroker motor. The Eagles that I have do not profit from this extra clearancing, nor does any other rod besides the Pauters that I know of. This does not have to be done in the actual 2.4 motor though. I dont know about you but I took the extra precautions. http://www.pinktemple.com/stroker.html
 
When speaking of clearancing the block, I believe you have to cut a few reliefs in the mains to allow the rods to clear. Also, some people have reported having to dent the oil pan just slightly as well.
 
The clearancing required when stroking a motor is mostly in the area of the block where the balance shafts are. The part of the casting that is especially in the way is in #3. I have also seen the main caps clearanced where the 1-2 and 2-4 caps connect to each other. The amount of clearancing required depends on the rods you are using.
 
huafist said:
Stock 4G63 stroke is 88mm. Stock 4G64 stroke is 101mm. The rods for both engines are 150mm. The difference in stroke is made up at the crank (hence the reason you have to SWAP IT). You have to have stroker pistons because they move the wrist pin up 6mm to compensate for lower deck height on the 4G63 block.

Yes and one more important detail, stroker pistons are also shorter than your standard 1G or 2G piston.
 
blue1 said:
Just the pistons are required! but just check if the block you have doesn't need a bore job, cause i dont think there is an oversize stoker piston yet to suit the 2G rod i may be wrong but haven't been able to find an off the shelf unit 020' with a 22mm pin!

I'm using 1G Wiseco .020 stroker shelf pistons in my 2G block. Just had to rebush the rods. Wiseco makes custom pistons and I understand they are going to start stocking stroker pistons for 2G's. I decided to go with off the shelf pistons as you can buy them individually in case something goes wrong where as custom pistons you'll have to buy a set of four.
 
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