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What do I need to swap a 2g head to a 1g motor??

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RedV

Probationary Member
21
0
Sep 21, 2002
Florida
I've searched and haven't found a definitive answer. Will a 2g head bolt right up to a 1g motor? Will I have to tune or anything? I recently fried my head and can get a 2g head cheaper.

Also, is there any place on the net that has instructions for a head swap? Like with any special tools I might need, or special procedures I might need to take? I don't want to jump into this job and realize I don't have the things I need, or can't retune the car.

Thanks a TON guys.

Alex
 
I think you'd wanna go ahead and pay more for the 1G head... depending on how much more... they flow better..
 
The 2g head isnt recommended.. youd have to change a lot.. water pipe, lots of hoses, block work to open / plug the water jackets you dont or do need, depending on which side we are talking about. highly not worth it.. save and get the 1g head.
 
Ok...so get the 1g head;)

Does anyone have a link or something to a 'how to' for a head change? Like I said before, I just don't want to get into this and realize I can't put the springs back on the head or something like that. Thanks guys.

Alex
 
All I can say is get a SERVICE MANUAL! Look over the Timing Belt VFAQ because those steps are necessary in removing the head (http://www.vfaq.com/FAQlocator-engine.html). To get start I would drain the coolant and oil from the car. When you get to the actually removal of the timing belt and you have the motor at TDC, get some whiteout and use it to mark all the timing indicators on your timing belt. This applies to your cam gears, crank, and oil pump. Also you do not have to remove the balance shaft belt.

Quick run down of things to remove:
UICP, thermostat housing, fuel rail, throttle cable, 4 bolts from turbo, 2 bolts from the under side of intake manifold bracket, cam angle sensor, a bunch of electrical connectors, water lines, and vacuum lines, and some other stuff. Then after all that, remove the valve cover, cams, and 10 head bolts and pull the head off.

If I were you I would order a Service Manual ASAP because your going to have your hands full with this job.
 
Originally posted by StockSpyder
The 2g head isnt recommended.. youd have to change a lot.. water pipe, lots of hoses, block work to open / plug the water jackets you dont or do need, depending on which side we are talking about. highly not worth it.. save and get the 1g head.


I would offer up quite the opposite. I believe the 2G head is a much better designed head and you don't have to 'change a lot'. Yes the ports are smaller. But the bowl design is a hell of a lot better and the 2G head already has the boss for the threads of the 1G CAS bolts. The water jackets ARE EXACTLY THE SAME. And the water pipes are interchangeable. The only water pipe limitation is the oil cooler. If you have a water cooled oil cooler, you will want a matching water pipe.
 
Thanks a TON guys, especially Tevenor. I'll be sure to let you all know how it goes. Thanks again.

Alex
 
AHHHH!!!! Thank you SOO MUCH!!! I saw that thread yesterday, but didn't save the link and have been looking for it frantically ALL DAY! Thanks a LOT guys.

Alex
 
Everyone, thank you SO MUCH. I appreciate all the links and advice, it's really helped out a lot.

Even better news...I got the head off and IT'S FINE, just needed to be milled even. Got it done this afternoon and will be putting it back on tomorrow. The day's looking better and better:)

Thanks again guys. Peace.

Alex
 
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