1G - need more oil press. How?

[Rob Rohr]

My 1G turbo's oil pressure is lower than I like and I am wondering if there is a cheap and simple way to raise it. I am sure the low pressure is due to normal bearing wear, etc on my 110k engine but is it possible to shim the oil pump or spring for more pressure? When the oil is at operating temp. the oil pressure drops to the bottom mark on the factory gauge. I changed to oil press. sender to ensure it is getting the correct signal and I have the same low reading.

Any advice?

 

[laserRSawd]

if you want real readings get an aftermarket gauge to check it. You can also get more oil pressure by removing your balance shafts and blocking the oiling holes for them
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html

 

[Rob Rohr]

if you want real readings get an aftermarket gauge to check it. You can also get more oil pressure by removing your balance shafts and blocking the oiling holes for them

I know the stock gauge isn't great but I am sure when it sits at the bottom Low mark the pressure isn't amazing! The B-shaft removal is far more work than I am willing to do at the moment.

Does anyone else have a suggestion as to how I can raise my pressure a bit?

Thanks

 

[HokieDSM]

Try using a smaller oil filter - like the one that '93-99 Turbo DSMs use, which is smaller than the 90-92 Filter.

Not as cheap or easy, but removing your balance shafts will also cause a rise in your oil pressure.

 

[Rob Rohr]

Try using a smaller oil filter - like the one that '93-99 Turbo DSMs use, which is smaller than the 90-92 Filter.

That is an interesting idea! Do you know the different part #s for the filters? The O.E. Mitsu filter I am using is already quite small

 

[steve]

Once the filter fills with oil the size difference no longer matters.

There are no bandaids, to raise the pressure you have to restore the clearances in the pump and bearings and possibly fix any leaking oil squirters.

The best you can do until then is try using a heaver oil.

Steve

 

[Rob Rohr]

There are no bandaids, to raise the pressure you have to restore the clearances in the pump and bearings and possibly fix any leaking oil squirters.

Is the low oil pressure usually caused by wear on the main engine bearings or oil pump wear? I think it is only about $150 and a couple of hours work to replace the pump.

 

[Darksyne]

My 1G turbo's oil pressure is lower than I like and I am wondering if there is a cheap and simple way to raise it.

Any advice?

I ran Mobil 1 15W-50 for a period of time due to its higher flash point. With this thicker oil my pressure definitely did go up, until the day I was accelerating briskly and saw a cloud of oil behind me and no oil pressure. After turning off the car and coasting to a stop I found that I blew out the seal between the oil filter and housing.

I'm sure this was a freak incident, but now I stick to 10W-30

 

[sweet97]

The motor only needs 10-11 PSI at idle. y gauge just about had no readingat warm idle. Put a gauge on to test it and 10 psi and it went up 10 PSI for each 1000 RPM so I had nearly 100 psi at redline. just find a mechanic witha gauge tester. As for the filter seal blowig It happened to me with a Fram. I use Mobil 15w-50. Use Mitsu filters. Mark

 

[boostmaster]

My 92 talon had the same problem, the oil pressure needle was at 0 at idle and when i reved it up it barely moved. i took it to my shop and found out my main bearings were shot because i had a wore out oil pump i guess. Anyway, my crank was ruined too, the motor was leaking from every gasket which was initally why i thought i had the oil pressure prob. instead of getting all new parts and resealing it, it was just cheaper in the long run for me to get a jdm cyclone.

 

[Rob Rohr]

My 92 talon had the same problem, the oil pressure needle was at 0 at idle and when i reved it up it barely moved. i took it to my shop and found out my main bearings were shot because i had a wore out oil pump i guess. Anyway, my crank was ruined too, the motor was leaking from every gasket which was initally why i thought i had the oil pressure prob. instead of getting all new parts and resealing it, it was just cheaper in the long run for me to get a jdm cyclone.

Thanks for the reply but I sure hope I don't have all the problems you do! My motor is virtually silent and doesn't use oil or leak any oil. I am sure it has some bearing wear compared to brand new but I don't think it is worn out. Was your oil pump really worn out?

 

[Darksyne]

As for the filter seal blowig It happened to me with a Fram. I use Mobil 15w-50. Use Mitsu filters. Mark

I was using a Mobil 1 filter when the seal blew out so it may not just be the Fram's.

 

[sweet97]

You really need to have the pressure checked. My factory gauge rarely reads straight up at 3000 rpm's. At warm idle it reads just about nothing! The only way to put your mind at ease is to have it checked. Any shop should be able to do it. Just remove the factory sending unit and then a hose with similar threads is threaded in with a manual gauge at the other end. Then you wil see just what the actual pressure is. If you do a search on vfaq you will find ifo. Do a search here and you will find loads of stories about the factory gauge! Mark

 

[anconover]

Replace oil pump, remove balance shafts while your in theyre. And then youll have all the oil pressure youve ever wanted =P

 

[ballagsx]

I was using a Mobil 1 filter when the seal blew out so it may not just be the Fram's.

mobil one filters are not much better than fram, they are WAY over priced for the crap that they are. use oem or stp.

 

[Jazzie6044]

While its no racing oil, my car likes to have 10w-30 max-life oil, and have it changed every 2500 miles. and i just use a standard carquest oil filter. regular 10w-30 seems to run just a little lower pressure, so I stick with the max-life. and im at 110k, with basically no oil leaks or consumption.

 

[anconover]

Ive run mobil 1 10w30 since i got the car and switched from the previous owners 20w50 or w/e it was. No low oil pressure problems ever, and i also use none other than FRAM oil filters! dun dun dun=P

 

[ballagsx]

just some thing i thought of, if you remove the ballance shafts do you think that the increased pressure would canse the bypass valve in the filter to open too often or too early and cause it to not filter properly?

 

[Darksyne]

mobil one filters are not much better than fram, they are WAY over priced for the crap that they are. use oem or stp.

Just a heads up:
Mobil 1:

Like the Champ filter, this filter is made by Champion Labs. However, it uses a unique end plate and a thicker can that make it the strongest filter available for wide distribution retail sale. It also uses a synthetic media, which inproves filtration and flow. I'm happy to say that this filter is not a fake. It is definitely a unique design.

It uses a synthetic fiber element that can filter out very small particles and is very strong. It is rated just under the Purolator Pure One as far as filtering capability, but is still very much above conventional paper filters. It also has a very strong construction to withstand high pressure spikes during start-up. However, as with all Mobil 1 products, expect to pay 2 - 3 times as much for this filter.

STP:

This filter is manufactured by Champion Laboratories, Inc. (NOT the same guys who make the spark plugs), and is sold under several other brand names. Champion admits some of these outright, and they are: Lee, Lee Maxi, and STP.

The Champion design has metal end caps on the filter cartridge, with the bypass valve stamped right into the bottom end cap like the Purolator. I refer to this as a one-piece filter cartridge. Though definitely not the same design as the Purolator, it does use the same type of leaf-spring-type spacer at the top of the cartridge and the nitrile anti-drainback valve, which doubles as the cartridge-to-backplate seal, at the bottom. One issue is that I sometimes noticed was some rust on the backplate of these filters. Since the rust is usually around by the inlet holes, any loose rust would be caught by the filter.

The telltale signs for a Champion filter are: 6 large holes for the oil inlet, one of which is larger than the others. Only the black anti-drainback valve can be seen through the inlet holes. There are 6 large crimps holding the gasket in place. Through the center outlet hole, you can see the bypass valve spring. Usually, the backplate metal is dull, or even rusty.

CLIFF NOTES:
Both are made by the same company, Mobil 1 is stronger and uses a better media

 

[ballagsx]

shortyl after posting that i discovered that the info i got was crap. but i do still think that they are over priced.

back on topic, just replace the pump and or remove the ballance shafts it should fix your problem.

 

[set3422]

This is the best bang for the buck, just raise your idle to 1k+ rpm by adjustinig the biss on the tb.

 

[steve]

This is the best bang for the buck, just raise your idle to 1k+ rpm by adjustinig the biss on the tb.

That's a quick way to mess up your decelleration control, dashpot emulation, and cause you car to die when rolling to a stop or between shifts. Unless your ECU has been reprogramed for a 1k idle the only way you can cause it to idle at 1k is to turn the BISS so far out of correct adjustment that the ISC has closed off it's bypass and no longer has any control over the engine idle speed.

Steve