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2G GM MAFT?

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Yes you can run your car without the afc. I have both and I was going to sell my afc, but it actually is pretty nice using both. It's overkill, but it makes me feel a little better about my fuel control.
 
9d2TSi said:
Yes you can run your car without the afc. I have both and I was going to sell my afc, but it actually is pretty nice using both. It's overkill, but it makes me feel a little better about my fuel control.
exactly....the maft is great IMO...sometimes i wish i had a LITTLE more control over things but if you dont plan to drag and fine tune all the time the MAFT is a great choice!
 
I don't see the point of the SAFC if you've got the MAF-t. I understand if you guys like the pretty blue screen but 2% vs 1%? If you really can fine-tune down to within 1% of perfect (doubt it) and use the SAFC, you'll have to change the settings next time the weather changes 10* anyways. At least if you're using the MAF-t, your settings are good no matter what temperature.
 
Mine's not blue, but I see what you're saying...LOL. ;) My way of doing it is getting as close as I can with the translator and then dial it in a little more with the afc. Plus with the afc I don't have to keep getting out of my car every time I have to make an adjustment.
 
A lot of people who get the maft get because it allows for more air flow than the 2G mas and you can position it so you can vent. They just zero out all the settings and use other means for tuning.
 
Lunch_Box said:
A lot of people who get the maft get because it allows for more air flow than the 2G mas and you can position it so you can vent. They just zero out all the settings and use other means for tuning.
The people who take that approach don't know much about tuning. The MAF-t is far supieor to the SAFC in tuning abilities.
 
98spydert said:
The people who take that approach don't know much about tuning. The MAF-t is far supieor to the SAFC is tuning abilities.

What? They tune in the exact same way (if you can call it tuning) but the afc has even more points for adjustment.

The people that take that approach are generally using dsmlink or a stand alone.

THINK BEFORE YOU POST.
 
To make it extra simple and use generic numbers and values; imagine 100 units of air moving past the maf at 20% throttle and 3500rpm on a 80 degree day. Your fuel trims arent happy so you make a bunch of adjustments to make them happy. You end up with around -8% on your SAFC around the middle range of air flow(cruising, light throttle conditions) to get your air/fuel ratio where you want it.

Next week it's windy and rainy and the result is the temperature is 20* lower. That means the air is more dense and you have more oxygen content per "unit". Well at 20% throttle and 3500rpm you now have more oxygen content moving into the engine that you did when you made your initial settings because of the more dense charge. 100units moves up to maybe 115units at the same throttle point/rpm point. The problem is, your -8% correction no longer applies at 20% throttle and 3500rpm because of that air flow difference. You either make changes every time there's a significant change in weather or you hope the temperature goes back to arond 80* next week.

Now tuning with the MAF-t, you don't tune by tps/rpm, you tune by airflow(hz). When you make an adjustment for 100units of air, whenever the ecu sees that 100units of air, the adjustment is the same no matter what rpm or throttle value you're at. If the weather changes or you change something on your engine to raise the air flow entering the engine, that 100unts has the adjustment it needs no matter if it's at wide open throttle or mid throttle.

Edit: I have tried to come up with a short explination of the differences before but I'm just not good at explaining it so I gave up. This isn't the best but hopefully you get the point. Forgive me OMG
 
awdsm drft said:
What? They tune in the exact same way (if you can call it tuning) but the afc has even more points for adjustment.

The people that take that approach are generally using dsmlink or a stand alone.

THINK BEFORE YOU POST.
You're an idiot, think before YOU post.

If you think tuning by airflow value and tuning by tps/rpm points are "the exact same way" you need to stick to the newb section.

Edit: and where the hell did DSMLink or a stand alone come into play? We're talking about using both the SAFC and MAF-t.
 
OK, if you already have the GM-MAFT is it even worth it to have the SAFC on top of that? I already have the GM-MAFT and was gonna buy the SAFC2 for a lil extra tuning capability but if its not even worth it to have it w/ the GM-MAFT then im not gonna buy it. I dont plan on racing my car all the time, mainly jus daily driving racing the occasional v8 or other dsm here and there. :talon: :thumb:
 
I say no, it's a waste of money. Others will say it is because of that extra 1% but I counter that with my above argument. It's safe to say you're not going to need that extra 1% unless you're spending many hours doing so, probably on a dyno. After a temperature change all that time super fine tuning won't matter anyways.

I'm not telling you what to buy or anything, that's just my opinion and the reason I haven't wasted $200+ on the pretty blue/black screen. :thumb:
 
It's basically personal preference. You don't need the afc if you have the maft. I just kept mine because I like the extra control. They do the same thing. The translator tunes in 2% increments, where the afc tunes in 1% increments. I personally like the translator better simply because it's more user friendly. :thumb: The other reason I kept my afc is because I'm too lazy to sell it.
 
Thanks for all the info guys.

How hard is it to tune the MAFT?
Also because DevilSprem brought it up in his post, if I plan to do some drag racing would the safc be a good idea or not? Judging from what I've read in this post the MAFT alone should be more then enough.
 
I just sold mine to switch over to SAFC2/TMO chip. They are alright, but you can't fine tune with them to save your life. Avoid them IMO.
 
98spydert said:
I say no, it's a waste of money. Others will say it is because of that extra 1% but I counter that with my above argument. It's safe to say you're not going to need that extra 1% unless you're spending many hours doing so, probably on a dyno. After a temperature change all that time super fine tuning won't matter anyways.

I'm not telling you what to buy or anything, that's just my opinion and the reason I haven't wasted $200+ on the pretty blue/black screen. :thumb:

Wrong

With an SAFC2 you can tune specific RPM ranges. The MAFT lets you tune low/med/high/wot.
 
kobykris said:
Wrong

With an SAFC2 you can tune specific RPM ranges. The MAFT lets you tune low/med/high/wot.
What am I wrong about? SAFC adjustment points are at rpm at a given tps value. MAF-t adjustments are 0-88hz, 88-180hz, and 180+hz. Also are 4 fine tuning points active at WOT conditions at 4k, 5k, 6k, and 7k.
It's all about how many points you have though, right? that's the only thing that matters :rolleyes:
low/med/high/wot? Where the hell do you guys come up with this crap?
 
I have already in my car a SAFC, but at 15 psi of boost or more im getting 43 counts of knock, knock starts to decrease as I richen up the SAFC, I cam only gt to like +7, before I get fuel cut. Im assuming this is because Im oout flowing my 1g MAS?


My main concern is I have the MAFT translator latest version, what GM part number MAF sensor do you guys use, I work at a GM dealer, so I want to get the right sensor. But How do I setup the MAFT if I want to tune with the SAFC only?


Thanks, Clayton
 
dsmturbo444 said:
My main concern is I have the MAFT translator latest version, what GM part number MAF sensor do you guys use, I work at a GM dealer, so I want to get the right sensor. But How do I setup the MAFT if I want to tune with the SAFC only?


Thanks, Clayton
to set it up to use the safc only, u just set all the knobs to 0...i dont know a part number but its the sensor off a 95-96 impala...and actually GM uses that thing for about 4 million different cars....so just look up the part number for the impala and im sure youll have one in stock
 
DevilSperm said:
to set it up to use the safc only, u just set all the knobs to 0...i dont know a part number but its the sensor off a 95-96 impala...and actually GM uses that thing for about 4 million different cars....so just look up the part number for the impala and im sure youll have one in stock

Actually it depends what size u want. U can get a TPI Type for a 68mm tpi throttle body and its the oval shape. its recommended u simply go to a junkyard with a 2001 or so chevy truck and get the round one off of it and fab your own pipes. bout the same size maybe. dunno. havent measured one. been a while sense i seen one. Oh and the corvette zo6 I know has a big round one that u can use that flows well.
 
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