Every guy has this problem...right?

[bosljeff]

Okay, I need help with my off-season purchases/installations/fixes.

-Current Problem-
Just got back from some races in Boise and the following was with 110 (leaded) fuel fwiw:
With my current set-up I can't launch at high boost (greddy low set at 10.7, high set at 15.9) and hold that boost w/o fuel cut several times throughout a run. However, if I launch with low boost and switch to high when I hit third, I don't hit fuel cut, but even then I am shifting kinda early to avoid the cut anyway which obviously doesn't take advantage of the full power throughout the gears/rpms.

Do I need to look at new injectors, having my current ones "serviced" or whatever, or do I NEED to get something like a SAFC or AEM or what?

I know my turbo is choking with my virtually stock exhaust, but I should be running better than mid to hi 14s, right? I mean something seems missing/wrong cuz I am consistently hitting 14.7-14.8 with fuel cut lurking at every shift.

With my newest setup (evoiii turbo, evo manifold, new fuel filter, walbro 255, dejon intake, greddy profec, along with everything else) I should be running faster than that with high(er) boost (16) from launch to finish, right?

If there is no 'problem', so to speak, and this is life, what should be next for my off-season: dp, cat back, injectors, intercooler pipes, something to do with fuel...?

I appreciate all your help.

 

[bastarddsm]

you have to have a boost leak i could run like 18psi without hittin f/c and i have all stock stuff.

 

[bosljeff]

*&^$^!

This is driving me nuts. I did the little tester thing on the intake and found/fixed whatever leaks I had. I'll do it again and "boost" up to 18 +/- with my tester. Maybe I'll find something else at the higher psi test.

I can't figure out where this leak could be. That tester thing should be sufficient to find it, right? I found a couple of leaks at the ic pipe at the tb elbow and at my bov hose that goes to the intake, but that was about all.

By the way, I recently did the taboo speed shop emissions elimination with the exception of the catch can for the pcv valve/valve cover hose.
http://www.taboospeedshop.com/emissions.htm

Any other ideas?

Thanks for the input.

Jeff

 

[bastarddsm]

put your emissions back on there is no performance gain by removing them. your car will acually run better with them.

run it hard and pull the plugs if there black then it's rich and you have a boost leak.

 

[bosljeff]

put your emissions back on there is no performance gain by removing them. your car will acually run better with them.
QUOTE]

Oh man, what a pita. I'll do the plug thing though....thanks.

 

[92awddsm]

Have you done any mods like intake pipe or hacking the mas? I have seen some hit fc with the stock mas and just a 3" intake pipe and k&n filter with the 14b@16-17 psi. Usually an easy fix(or band aid) would be to remove the lower hc from the mas. This in turn flows more unmetered air which effectively raises fc but the down side is that the car runs leaner. Most dsms will run better with a leaner than stock a/f ratio but a few have ran slower due to knock and pulled timing.

 

[bosljeff]

Have you done any mods like intake pipe or hacking the mas? I have seen some hit fc with the stock mas and just a 3" intake pipe and k&n filter with the 14b@16-17 psi. Usually an easy fix(or band aid) would be to remove the lower hc from the mas. This in turn flows more unmetered air which effectively raises fc but the down side is that the car runs leaner. Most dsms will run better with a leaner than stock a/f ratio but a few have ran slower due to knock and pulled timing.

Yes: Dejontool intake, no air can, no lower hc. So yeah, now you see my stress, I should be running way better times, right?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

hmmm...

AFTER you did the intake test, did you go back and do it again after you tightened the pipes up? if you didn't try again, you may not have gotten them all. also try to spray soapy water on problem spots, sometimes you can't just hear or feel the leaks.

check your turbo, does it spin freely? are you blowing oil? sometimes NEW turbos can be lemons and you can send them back..

did you replace your plugs/wires? this is sometimes overlooked. same with PROPER maintenance.

try putting your lower HC back in.. see what happens then.


that being done, check your compression. this could be the source of a power loss also.

after that, get a logger [ you're 1g right? ] and check for knock and pulled timing, that could be a clue to a different problem.

goodluck

 

[bosljeff]

hmmm...

AFTER you did the intake test, did you go back and do it again after you tightened the pipes up? if you didn't try again, you may not have gotten them all. also try to spray soapy water on problem spots, sometimes you can't just hear or feel the leaks.

check your turbo, does it spin freely? are you blowing oil? sometimes NEW turbos can be lemons and you can send them back..

did you replace your plugs/wires? this is sometimes overlooked. same with PROPER maintenance.

try putting your lower HC back in.. see what happens then.


that being done, check your compression. this could be the source of a power loss also.

after that, get a logger [ you're 1g right? ] and check for knock and pulled timing, that could be a clue to a different problem.

goodluck

I just did another leak test and at 18 psi I hear air around the tb, and when I cupped my hand over it, it seemed to muffle it, but I'm not sure where that leak could be. Maybe the seams/gaskets between the elbow and the tb and/or the seams/gasket between the tb and the intake....? It oddly seemed like it was coming from the tb spring. I might have enough air in the compressor to try again with soapy water....ideas?

Turbo is spinning freely, not blowing oil, new plugs and wires. My pcv valve is pretty stripped, that couldn't have an effect, could it? I didn't hear any leaks there, however.

I do have a logger and that is another problem: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142921

Thanks for all the help. I'm going to go out and try one more time with what air I have left and some soapy water....

 

[bosljeff]

Okay, here is where the bubbles appeared. I had limited air, so there could be more leaks:

the seal between the tb and the tb elbow
my idle adjustment screw....?

Now, I'm assuming a new gasket for the tb (both sides) would be in order. What the hell do I do about the idle screw thing? Order a new o-ring?

Thanks.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

new TB gasket should work..

maybe a new BISS screw?

 

[bosljeff]

new TB gasket should work..

maybe a new BISS screw?

Could this be the miraculous cure-all that would solve all my fuel cut/idling at 6-8 vacuum/other problems?

I want to expect something more significant, but if this simple thing is a very drastic fix, well, I'm okay with that too.

 

[Diplomat]

It's been suggested that you can simply run down to your local automotive or hardware store, pick up a tray of assorted O-rings and just use whichever one fits. I will probably end up doing this myself once I find out that Mitsubishi probably charges over 100 bucks for a new one. :thumbdown I'm not sure if the O-ring that's in there is anything special. I'd just prefer to use the OE part. Of course, it's just a damn rubber O-ring. There must be one in one of those O-ring assortment kits that fits closely or as well as the OE part.

 

[turbotsi92]

I know you are having problems, but one of the first things I would be doing is putting 3" turbo back exhaust on it. With the other mods you have done, exhaust is a must.

 

[bosljeff]

It's been suggested that you can simply run down to your local automotive or hardware store, pick up a tray of assorted O-rings and just use whichever one fits. I will probably end up doing this myself once I find out that Mitsubishi probably charges over 100 bucks for a new one. :thumbdown I'm not sure if the O-ring that's in there is anything special. I'd just prefer to use the OE part. Of course, it's just a damn rubber O-ring. There must be one in one of those O-ring assortment kits that fits closely or as well as the OE part.

I have one of those assortment kits, and the ones I had didn't really firm it up at all...so I don't know what to do. I think dss.com sells oem stuff cheap, I'm not sure though...I do know that I have put various rubber plugs and caps on that spot and sure enough they never stay. I'd like to think that is where my fuel cut is occuring: due to some huge pop of air blowing around that screw. I know I'm asking for a lot, but I'd like the fix to be that simple. Who knows?

 

[bosljeff]

I know you are having problems, but one of the first things I would be doing is putting 3" turbo back exhaust on it. With the other mods you have done, exhaust is a must.

Yeah, that is certainly the "winter" project: I have an evo o2 coming and I will slowly buy the dp and the cat back and the test pipe. Do evo turbos have problems with creep, especially with the 3"?

 

[turbotsi92]

Yeah, that is certainly the "winter" project: I have an evo o2 coming and I will slowly buy the dp and the cat back and the test pipe. Do evo turbos have problems with creep, especially with the 3"?

I was running complete 2.5" turbo back w/ test pipe, and I had no creep. My engine is getting rebuilt right now, and I would like to have complete 3" by spring, I didn't know much about these when I first bought it, and thought 2.5 would be enough, but the way everyone talks in here 3" is the way to go.

 

[91awd]

I fixed my fuel cut a long time ago with a 2g mass but if I did it over again I would just do the gm maft. I just used an o-ring from an assorted kit on my biss screw and it fit just fine and fixed the leak. And deffinately get an exhaust I would have done that way before a turbo upgrade you should really follow the staged mods guidlines it's the best way to go.

 

[bosljeff]

I fixed my fuel cut a long time ago with a 2g mass but if I did it over again I would just do the gm maft. I just used an o-ring from an assorted kit on my biss screw and it fit just fine and fixed the leak. And deffinately get an exhaust I would have done that way before a turbo upgrade you should really follow the staged mods guidlines it's the best way to go.

I know I should have followed the 'order' but my turbo went to shit and I wanted to get one that would fulfill my needs for quite a while, then I found out my mani was cracked so I figured I'd change that too.

Exhaust is certainly happening this winter though and then I'll be back on track.

I was also thinking of doing the catch can with the two different hoses (pcv and the other one) on the valve cover going into that. My pcv valve is stripped and I'm wondering if I have a leak there. Then I'll cap the intake spot in hopes of fixing whatever leak I have. Disregarding the fuel cut due to a possible vacuum leak, I'm worried about a vacuum leak because my idle vacuum is like 6 mm hg and that can't be good if it isn't even idling right, let alone trying to boost too...right?

It just seems like there has to be more to the problem than the small leaks around the tb gaskets, the BISS screw, and maybe the pcv issue. Or could those be the culprit?

 

[92awddsm]

Have you pulled the upper timing cover off and checked the cam timing? If you have one or both cams off 1-2 teeth, it will cause low vac at idle, poor running, choppy idle, idle surge, etc,etc. Check it out and see if the marks line up. If they dont, that could be all of your problems.

 

[bosljeff]

Have you pulled the upper timing cover off and checked the cam timing? If you have one or both cams off 1-2 teeth, it will cause low vac at idle, poor running, choppy idle, idle surge, etc,etc. Check it out and see if the marks line up. If they dont, that could be all of your problems.

Will do. Thanks. Refresh my pseudo-newbie memory: once I pull the cover off, is there a mark or a notch? If I remember right when I did it a couple of weeks ago, the cam gears were notched and down at the lower timing belt stuff there is a white line...?

Sorry, for my stupidity.

 

[92awddsm]

Will do. Thanks. Refresh my pseudo-newbie memory: once I pull the cover off, is there a mark or a notch? If I remember right when I did it a couple of weeks ago, the cam gears were notched and down at the lower timing belt stuff there is a white line...?

Sorry, for my stupidity.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html This has some pictures so it makes it easier.

There should be a notch in the crank pulley that you line up to the 0 on the timing pointer on the lower plastic cover. Also, pull the #1 spark plug andmake sure the piston is at the very top of the stroke. Take a long screwdriver and stick it in the plug hole to feel the piston while you have someone rotate the crank back and forth. I say do this because if your harmonic balancer is old or beginning to come apart, it could spin on the hub and the timing notch will then be slightly off. Good luck, I know how you feel. Ive been in the same boat before.

 

[bosljeff]

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html This has some pictures so it makes it easier.

There should be a notch in the crank pulley that you line up to the 0 on the timing pointer on the lower plastic cover. Also, pull the #1 spark plug andmake sure the piston is at the very top of the stroke. Take a long screwdriver and stick it in the plug hole to feel the piston while you have someone rotate the crank back and forth. I say do this because if your harmonic balancer is old or beginning to come apart, it could spin on the hub and the timing notch will then be slightly off. Good luck, I know how you feel. Ive been in the same boat before.

Thanks, I appreciate it. I did all that the first time, but I will check again, and I'm assuming that to do it again (if the marks are off or anything else is off) I have to take the timing belt off, right? Or is there a way to adjust all that with it on? Sorry for the stupid question...

 

[92awddsm]

Thanks, I appreciate it. I did all that the first time, but I will check again, and I'm assuming that to do it again (if the marks are off or anything else is off) I have to take the timing belt off, right? Or is there a way to adjust all that with it on? Sorry for the stupid question...

Just check and make sure the marks line up first but if they dont, you will need to pull the belt off to fix it safely.

 

[bosljeff]

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html This has some pictures so it makes it easier.

There should be a notch in the crank pulley that you line up to the 0 on the timing pointer on the lower plastic cover. Also, pull the #1 spark plug andmake sure the piston is at the very top of the stroke. Take a long screwdriver and stick it in the plug hole to feel the piston while you have someone rotate the crank back and forth. I say do this because if your harmonic balancer is old or beginning to come apart, it could spin on the hub and the timing notch will then be slightly off. Good luck, I know how you feel. Ive been in the same boat before.

So wait...I can do all the above with minimal removals, right? The above is only a way to "test" it right? All I would have to remove is the tire, spark plug, cover, and that's it? So, what is a good result and what is bad? Good would be the piston being at tdc and the notch being lined up with the 0, right? If it is bad, I have to what?