breaking up/black smoke/b16g 4500rpm spool?HELP!

[1993eclipseGS]

1992 Talon Tsi fwd 5spd.

Got the car all back together, It does not have power, It starts to spool at like 4000 rpm or up more then that. When it does spool there isnt really any power. I have the boost controller backed all the way out to 10psi.
As soon as I plug my maft/mas in, the car's idle is very bad and puffs cloud of black smoke out the back, It runs good without it plugged in(Stock mafs) but it just dont build boost until after 4,000 rpm. I changed my plugs and it stopped breaking up. But is really slow.

I have all the mods in my profile. I took the injectors out and put stock ones back in and it ran ok. But again no power.

I dont know how to save my logs or bring them on the comp, But my fuel trims were all above 100% and i would get 6 counts of knock. I got 14 15 16 15 14, then 0 then.

Everyone i talked to told me i hafto lean it out a real lot, That it is super rich? Any tips, I'll be trying this tomorrow? Also when I try to make an adjustment on the translator, It is a constant 7 red blinks? And when i turn a knob, The red light well go bright then stay dim?

 

[1fast97gsx]

black smoke generally means you are running rich. Check your system for boost leaks .. then fix those and then tune.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Well I put my 680's back in, Got the car to idle right. Then took it for a drive. It would break up at around 6,000rpm but i wasent getting knock. I put the boost to 18lbs and it was running pretty good. I turned the boost controller up another half turn and i blew an intercooler pipe off. I bought 3 gallons of 100octane that i'm runing too. It's getting better now, But on my old setup it would break loose at the top of first, sometimes at the top of second, It dont do that anymore?

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Well, No one really replied to this thread, But I leaned out my wot knob on the translator, A couple clicks and it stopped breaking up and pulled alot harder at only 10psi i had it at today. just incase this ever gets dug up and it happends to anyone else.

 

[sweet97]

Your 680cc inj's would support my 50 trim. 7 red blinks means you are making adjustments to the translator with the car running. It's best to turn it off. With 680's the "book" says to start with the base knob on "A" and the AUX on 1. If you still get knock and pulled timing you may have to lean a bit more. Mark

 

[1993eclipseGS]

ya my friend told me that 680's are pretty big injectors, For my b16g and that I would hafto lean it out alot.

The seven red blinks happened to be because of my 3" mafs was bad, The little things that actually meter the air flow inside it were broken. I replaced that and the blinking stopped.

I thought that knock was caused by not enough fuel? when i went very lightly on the throttle i got like 42 counts of knock I quick let off and then it didnt happen again?

my lrft stays at I believe 139.2 ? It will not move when I make adjustments?

 

[sweet97]

A lean condition can cause knock. Remember this the ECU is whatsets the a/f ratio, not the translator. Wht the translator does it "trick' the ecu as to how much AIR is entering the motor. If the ECU "sees" lot of air it will knock/pull timing. I have been learning the tuning characteristics of the translator for a while an still am gaining tuning skills. I was in a knock situation and kept adding fuel and making it worse! Go to www.fullthrottletech.com for help with tuning. there is a good sticky about the 2nd or 3rd down under the DSM tuning forum. We have to consider boost, a/f and timing/knock while tuning. 18 PSI with a big 16G should be OK. Remember I am new at this too so check it out but keep the timing over 15 under WOT without knock or with just a couple counts and you should be on track. The engine makes pore power with a leaner(that does not mean a lean mix but NOT a overly rich condition like you had) mixture, just don't melt it! Mark

 

[1993eclipseGS]

Thanks for replying so fast, That website has alot of information that i'm going to read up on right now.