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Building A Stroker!!!! Help! Help Help!!!!

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squeak10686

15+ Year Contributor
360
1
Jul 18, 2004
omaha, Nebraska
Hey guys....
I'm going to be building a stroker 2.3 ( the kit for 1900$$$ its the stage one....) Now quick question for you guys.... what all will i need to complete this kit besides the parts that come with it, i know that i am going to need to get a new headgasket, and some arp headstuds, but, can this work off of my stock block??? I know that i will have to mod my head some too.... Just all questions that i figure i need to ask, and 2... will i be able to run nitrous off of this setup, and finally what can i expect out of this setup with a 16g turbo, built head and so on and so on... and if i can use a shot of nitrous how big of a shot could i run on the internals.... Thanks alot
Andrew..........
 
i don't have much to say about what you will need as I have never done or helped anyone with a 2.3 stroker setup. The only thing I want to know is why in the hell you would put a built 2.3 in your car to run a freakin 16g? why not just put a t25 on there, it will be about the same damn thing.
 
( wont be on it long, just to get hte car out running, now what about just buildign the motor... i mean what do you guys recomend...)
 
hey man let's start with this. that is alot for a stage 1. u can do it from slow boy for 1050 with a Remanufactured crank or 1250 with a new crank here is the links.
stroker stuff.
Eagle Rods
crank
Wiseco 8.8:1 Stroker pistons
As for what else u would need. if you plain on doing it right u will need the flowing.
go with a oem head gasget long as u dont plain on running 25 psi + this is a good choose.
for hardware go all apr head, main, and rod
personail i would also remove the balance shaft.
if the engien had over 100,000 miles on it i would swap new water pump, oil gears and hosuing, Accessory pulley, and full timing belt kit.
need bearings rod and main i would go with Clevite.
toplines full engien gasket kit.
That should do it for the bottom end. as for the head i would take ou the cams and lifter and look for a rebuilt head you should be able to pick 1 up for around 400 with your core. this will be fine if u plain on running a 16. peronaily i think a stroker on it with a big 16g would be a very nice sreet setup. if u plain on steping it up to this would also work fine. as for nituros long as u got the mods for for it that setup, will be able to to handell 500whp with the prober tunning most people over look getting the car tunned profesanly. they then try running 100 shots and lean the shit out there car then blame it on the step when the blow the shit up.
that my 2 cent's sorry if i forgot some thing add it if i did. if u have any more qustions fell free to email me [email protected] or call 484 390 1663. i just got all my stroker stuff in hope i get some time to start putting it together.
 
do not cheap out on the kit man. i mean you can put all the parts together but the only thign you need is a 4g64 crank. there are a few motor you can use to get that crank but i find the 64 cranks easier to find. SBR has 64 cranks for liek $350, then get cleavittes, rods, pistons, and do whatever you want to the crank.

oyu have to releive the main caps on the block slightly or the rod will hit the block and destroy your new motor.i forget how far oyu have to releive it.

also get a new front case and oil pump. also a new pickup, building a new mtor and not getting a new frotn case is just otu right stupidity. never cheap out on this.

if you knew all that srry. figured id post and put em out there.here was the setup i was gonan use on my n/t motor

brc 11:0:1 compression
eagle rods
butchered 64 crank (6-bolt)
deck block
ner cleavittes
total seal rings.

im building a new design that will hold a 150 shot.

if oyu need nay other help just ask i got messurements on both blocks
 
You guys need to do a few things:
Watch your spellings.
Stop encouraging others to do the same mistakes you did.
Stop thinking that you can “beat” the prices of an engine builder. A respectable engine builder will offer you a “kit” that will actually work because he will check the components before selling them. While you might be able to “mail piece” components for a “good” price” how will you make sure that everything is how it should be.

Now I think I need to do one thing too: work on my math since for whatever reason when I add the parts mentioned I get completely different numbers.

Squeak you need to take this matter to somebody who is qualified and you will probably save a lot more by doing it right. Why don’t you take this to your machinist and see what he recommends and if you have any doubts or more questions come back and ask for help.
 
I'm just tyring to figure out what needs to be done, by building the motor to hold 500 horsepower how much do you think it would cost...
 
It depends on what are you getting and who are you getting it from. You will need to contact the engine builders that you would trust directly and let them know what you want and how much are you willing to spend for this project.
 
squeak10686 said:
I'm just tyring to figure out what needs to be done, by building the motor to hold 500 horsepower how much do you think it would cost...

You don't need a stroker for that .... especially on a 16g. Seems rather pointless on a 16g actually imo.
 
you do realize that i have been building these motors for abtou 3 years now. anyonr can build a motor with the right knowledge and skills plus the tools to do it. a machine shop will be needed to clearence everything and such. other then that its all wrench work.

the kits they sell you are not the pricey, they mark em up because there in demand. they knwo they can get that price for that kit and you will pay it. this is how buuisness make money. trust me ive talked to a few of em and there is nothgin special about these kits. if you were to go get all the parts brand new it wouldnt coast nearly as much, but because thay call it a ""kit"" makes it more expensive.

you can get crank for $350 with bearings, rods for $450 i beleive, pistons for $550, the block work and all for $500 and it still isnt as much as damn kits. even if you add all hardware from arp ot still is less. look into it man unless you ve been doing this for a long time you need to look deep into it. just becuase a buisness sells it doesnt mean its the best
 
It is getting ridiculous. I’ve read so many times that you can get a “new” crank for $350 that it makes me sick. List price on a new crank is $672.70 and that doesn’t include any of the bearings. The crankshaft you guys are talking about for 350 is a reconditioned crankshaft.
Sure you can “source” the parts yourself but don’t go crying to nobody if it doesn’t work out the way you expect to.
Mitch.
 
reconditione doesnt make it a bad crank. if the crank has good lobes on it thats fine with me. if i have to get oversized beairngs that fine. as logn as it was checked meanign it was checked for cracks using a x-ray deal and all possible technoligies that say it s a good crank then wtf is wrogn with the crank.

i mean you can go get new btu even then it still isnt that expensive. i see kits for $2500 and you can buy all new for liek $1750. cmon dude you knwo there outrite stupid prices on these kits. there so expensive i knwo kids with 4 maxed credit cards to build oen motor.

i just think its stupid there that expensive. sorry to al lfor flippin out it just bugs me
 
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